Sewing lining into a dress means attaching a separate fabric layer to the inside of your garment so the seams don't touch your skin
Lining is a second layer of fabric—usually cotton, silk, or a synthetic blend—that you attach to the inside of a dress. It covers the raw seams and hems on the inside, makes the dress hang better, and stops the outer fabric from clinging to your body. The lining is sewn to the dress at the armholes, neckline, and waistband, then hangs freely inside the garment.
The most common method is slip-stitching: you sew the lining to the dress at the openings (neck, sleeves, waist) and leave the bottom edges of both layers unfinished until the end. This keeps the lining from bunching and lets it move independently from the outer fabric as you wear it.
Key Takeaways
- Cut your lining pieces 1/2 inch smaller than your dress pattern pieces so the lining sits inside without pulling at the seams.
- Sew the lining together as a separate garment first, then attach it to the dress at the neckline, armholes, and waistband using a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Use a slip stitch (a nearly invisible hand stitch) to close the opening where you turned the dress right-side out, securing the lining to the dress hem.
- Press the lining away from the dress seams after attaching it so it lies flat and doesn't create bulk at the openings.
Prepare your lining fabric and pattern pieces
Start by choosing a lining fabric that drapes similarly to your outer fabric. Cotton voile, cotton sateen, and silk charmeuse are common choices. Wash and press your lining fabric before cutting—it shrinks, and you want it to move with your dress, not against it.
Use the same pattern pieces you used for the dress, but trim 1/2 inch off the seam allowances on all edges. This smaller seam allowance keeps the lining from peeking out at the neckline, armholes, and waistband. Cut out all your lining pieces: front, back, sleeves (if the dress has them), and any other panels. Do not cut a lining for the waistband or facing—those attach to the dress itself.
Sew the lining as a separate garment
Construct the lining exactly as you would the dress, but use a 1/4-inch seam allowance instead of 5/8 inch. Sew the front and back together at the shoulders. If your dress has sleeves, sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves to the armholes. Press all seams flat as you go.
Do not hem the bottom of the lining yet. Leave it raw for now—you will finish it after the lining is attached to the dress. Stop at the waistband seam if your dress has one; the lining should end where the waistband begins, not extend into it.
Attach the lining to the neckline
Place the dress and lining with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin the neckline of the lining to the neckline of the dress, matching shoulder seams and any notches. The lining should fit inside the dress opening. Sew around the neckline with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch and removing pins as you sew.
Trim the seam allowance to 1/8 inch and clip small notches into the curve every 1/2 inch—this helps the seam lie flat when you turn it right-side out. Press the seam open with the tip of your iron, working on a pressing ham or rolled towel to avoid creasing the dress fabric.
Attach the lining to the armholes and waistband
If your dress has sleeves, pin the lining armhole to the dress armhole with right sides together. Sew with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, trim to 1/8 inch, clip the curves, and press. Repeat for both armholes.
If your dress has a waistband, pin the top edge of the lining to the waistband seam (the seam where the waistband attaches to the dress), right sides together. Sew with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Trim and press. This anchors the lining so it does not shift inside the dress.
Turn the dress right-side out and close the opening
Reach through the opening at the bottom of the dress and carefully turn the entire garment right-side out. The lining is now inside the dress, and the seams are hidden. Smooth out the dress and lining so they lie flat against each other. Press the neckline, armholes, and waistband seams from the outside, rolling the seam slightly to the inside so the lining seam does not show.
You now have an opening at the bottom where the dress and lining are still inside-out. Fold the raw edges of both the dress and lining inward 1/2 inch and press. Pin the opening closed. Use a slip stitch to close it: thread a needle, knot the end, and bring the needle up through the fold of the dress fabric. Slide the needle through the fold for about 1/8 inch, then cross over to the lining fold and slide through it for 1/8 inch. Repeat all the way around. The stitches will be nearly invisible on the outside.
Hem the lining and dress
Once the opening is closed, try on the dress and mark where you want the hem. The lining should be 1/2 to 1 inch shorter than the dress hem so it does not show when you walk. Fold and press the dress hem first, then fold and press the lining hem separately. Hand-stitch both hems using a slip stitch or blind stitch, or machine-stitch if your dress design allows it.
Press the finished dress from the inside, using a pressing cloth to protect the fabric. The lining should move freely inside and not pull at any seams.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most common error is cutting the lining the same size as the dress. This creates bulk at the seams and makes the lining pull at the neckline and armholes. Always trim 1/2 inch from the seam allowances. Another mistake is sewing the lining hem to the dress hem—this stops the lining from moving and creates visible stitches. Keep the lining hem separate and shorter.
Do not skip pressing after each seam. Lining seams that are not pressed flat will create lumps and wrinkles inside the dress. Finally, avoid using a seam allowance larger than 1/4 inch on the lining. A larger seam allowance makes the lining thick and stiff at the openings.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I attach lining to a dress that is already finished?
Yes, but it is more work. You will need to open the neckline, armholes, or waistband seams to insert the lining, then re-sew them. It is easier to add lining before you hem the dress. If the dress is already hemmed, you can still slip-stitch a lining inside, but you will have to hand-stitch the entire bottom opening closed.
What if my dress has a facing instead of a waistband?
A facing is a small piece of fabric sewn to the inside of an opening (like a neckline) to finish it. Attach the lining to the facing seam, just as you would a waistband. The facing and lining will sit together on the inside of the dress.
Do I need to use the same fabric for the lining as the pattern suggests?
No. Choose a lining fabric based on how it drapes and how it feels against your skin, not on the pattern's suggestion. Cotton and silk linings are breathable and comfortable. Avoid heavy fabrics that will make the dress stiff or slippery fabrics that bunch up inside.
How do I keep the lining from twisting inside the dress?
Anchor the lining at the waistband or at the side seams by tacking it down with a few hand stitches. Use thread that matches the lining, and make stitches only 1/4 inch long so they do not show. This keeps the lining from shifting as you move.