A pocket square is a small decorative cloth you fold and place in your jacket breast pocket

A pocket square is a piece of fabric, usually silk or cotton, folded into a triangle or rectangle and worn in the breast pocket of a blazer or suit jacket. You can buy them ready-made, but sewing your own takes about an hour and costs only the price of fabric. The finished square is typically 16 to 18 inches on each side before folding.

The basic construction is straightforward: cut two pieces of fabric to size, sew them together with right sides facing, turn the square inside out through a small opening, press it flat, and close the opening by hand. The result is a finished edge all around with no raw fabric showing.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two squares of fabric 16 to 18 inches on each side, with the grain running the same direction on both pieces.
  • Sew the two pieces together with right sides facing, leaving a 3-inch opening on one side for turning.
  • Turn the square inside out through the opening, press it flat with an iron, and hand-stitch the opening closed.
  • Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) to close the opening so the seam is nearly invisible.
  • Press the finished square one more time and fold it into your preferred style before wearing.

Gather fabric, thread, and basic sewing tools

You will need two pieces of fabric cut to the same size. Cotton, silk, linen, or a blend all work well. If you want a reversible pocket square, use two different fabrics; if you want both sides the same, use the same fabric twice. You will also need thread that matches or blends with your fabric, a needle, scissors, pins, and an iron.

A sewing machine makes the work faster and produces a straighter seam, but you can sew the entire square by hand if you prefer. If you use a machine, set it to a standard stitch length (about 2.5 millimeters) and use a thread color that matches your fabric or blends into the seam.

Cut two squares and pin them together

Cut two squares of fabric to 16 to 18 inches on each side. Lay them on top of each other with the right sides facing (the pretty sides touching, the wrong sides facing out). Pin around all four edges, leaving about a quarter-inch of space between the pin and the edge of the fabric. This quarter-inch space is your seam allowance.

Make sure the grain of the fabric runs the same direction on both pieces. If one piece is cut on the bias and the other is not, the finished square may stretch unevenly or look twisted. Check the selvage (the finished edge of the bolt) on both pieces and orient them the same way before pinning.

Sew three sides and most of the fourth

Sew along three complete sides, keeping the seam a quarter-inch from the edge. On the fourth side, sew from one corner until you are about 3 inches from the opposite corner, then stop and remove the pins. This 3-inch opening is where you will turn the square inside out.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread. If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch or backstitch and aim for stitches about one-eighth inch long. If you are using a machine, raise the presser foot and cut the thread when you reach the opening.

Turn the square inside out and press it flat

Reach into the 3-inch opening and pull one corner of the square through, then keep pulling until the entire square is turned right side out. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a pencil to push the corners out from the inside so they are sharp and square. Lay the pocket square flat on your ironing board and press it with a medium-heat iron, paying special attention to the edges and corners.

The seams should lie flat and even all the way around. If any seam is puckered or uneven, dampen the area slightly with a spray bottle and press again. Once the square is pressed, the edges will hold their shape better when you fold and wear it.

Close the opening with a ladder stitch

Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then across to the opposite side and down through the fold there. Slide the needle inside the fold for about a quarter-inch, then bring it back out and cross to the other side again. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire opening.

The ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) works by running the thread inside the fold of fabric so the stitches do not show on the outside. Pull the thread gently every few stitches to close the opening gradually. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold and trim it short. The opening should be nearly invisible when you are done.

Press the finished square and fold it for wearing

Press the pocket square one final time with a warm iron to set the stitches and remove any wrinkles. The square is now ready to fold and wear. The most common fold is the triangle: fold the square in half diagonally, then fold it in half again to create a smaller triangle, and tuck it into your jacket pocket with the point showing.

Other popular folds include the rectangle (fold the square in thirds lengthwise) and the puff (gather the center loosely and let the edges fluff out). Experiment with different folds to find the look you prefer. A pocket square made from silk or a silk blend will hold its fold better than cotton.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size should a pocket square be?

A standard pocket square is 16 to 18 inches on each side before folding. This size folds down to fit neatly in a jacket breast pocket without bunching or hanging out too far. If your jacket pocket is unusually small or large, you can adjust the size up or down by 1 to 2 inches.

Can I use the same fabric for both sides or do they have to be different?

You can use the same fabric for both sides or two different fabrics. If you use the same fabric twice, the pocket square will look identical from both sides. If you use two different fabrics, you create a reversible square that shows one pattern or color on one side and another on the reverse.

What thread color should I use?

Use thread that matches your fabric or blends into the seam so the stitches are less visible. If your fabric is patterned or multicolored, choose a thread color that matches the dominant color. For the ladder stitch that closes the opening, matching thread is especially important because any visible stitches will show on the finished square.

Do I need a sewing machine or can I sew it by hand?

You can sew a pocket square entirely by hand. A machine produces a faster, straighter seam, but a hand-sewn square works just as well. Hand sewing takes longer (about two to three hours instead of one) and requires more patience, but the result is the same.

What happens if my seams are crooked or uneven?

Slightly crooked seams will not affect how the pocket square looks when it is folded and worn. If the seams are very uneven or puckered, you can carefully cut the stitches with a seam ripper, press the fabric flat, and sew again. Start over rather than trying to fix a badly sewn seam, because the fabric may be damaged.