The Basic Method for a Patch Pocket
A patch pocket is the simplest pocket to sew and the best place to start. You cut a rectangle of fabric, fold and press the edges, then stitch it onto the front of your garment. The whole process takes about 20 minutes once you have your fabric cut and your machine threaded. No special tools are needed beyond scissors, pins, and a sewing machine.
Start by cutting your pocket piece about 1 inch larger on all sides than the finished size you want. If you want a 4-inch-wide pocket, cut a 6-inch-wide rectangle. Press all four edges under by half an inch, then press the top edge under by another half inch so the raw edge is hidden. Pin the pocket to your garment where you want it to sit, then sew around three sides, leaving the top open. Sew the top edge closed last, which locks everything in place.
Key Takeaways
- A patch pocket requires only a rectangle of fabric, pressing, and three lines of stitching around the edges.
- Press all raw edges under before pinning so the pocket looks finished and does not fray.
- Sew slowly around corners and use a short stitch length (2.0 or smaller) so the pocket stays find through washing.
- A seam ripper and a few pins are the only tools you need beyond your machine and scissors.
Preparing Your Fabric and Marking the Pocket
Measure and mark where you want the pocket to sit on your garment before you cut anything. Use a ruler and a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk to draw a rectangle on the front of your shirt or pants. Mark the pocket about 2 to 3 inches down from the waistband on pants, or roughly at chest height on a shirt. Make the pocket wide enough to fit your hand comfortably — usually 4 to 5 inches.
Cut your pocket fabric from the same material as your garment, or from a contrasting fabric if you want the pocket to stand out. Cut it 1 inch larger than your marked rectangle on all sides. If your fabric frays easily (cotton, linen), cut it 1.5 inches larger so you have room to fold the edges under twice. Lay the pocket piece on a pressing board and press all four edges under by half an inch using a hot iron. This fold is what keeps the raw edges hidden and the pocket looking neat.
Pinning and Positioning the Pocket
Place the folded pocket on your garment so the edges line up with your marked rectangle. Use three or four pins to hold it in place — one near each corner and one in the middle of each long side. The pins should go through both the pocket and the garment, but not so tight that they pucker the fabric. If the pocket shifts when you move the garment, add another pin.
Check that the pocket is straight by looking at it from the front and the back. If one corner is higher than the other, unpin that corner, adjust, and pin again. Crooked pockets are the most common mistake, and it takes only a few seconds to fix now rather than unpicking stitches later.
Stitching the Pocket to Your Garment
Thread your machine with thread that matches your garment or your pocket, depending on which you want to emphasize. Set your stitch length to 2.0 or smaller — a shorter stitch holds better and looks more professional. Start at the top left corner of the pocket and sew down the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side. Stop about half an inch from the top right corner and backstitch to lock the thread.
Sew the top edge last. Start at the top left corner and sew straight across to the top right corner, then backstitch. This final line of stitching closes the pocket opening and locks all the other stitches in place. Sew slowly around the corners so your stitches stay straight and the corners stay square. If you rush, the needle can skip or the fabric can bunch.
Remove the pins as you sew, not before. Pull each pin out just before the needle reaches it. Sewing over a pin can break your needle and damage your machine.
Reinforcing Corners for Durability
The top corners of a pocket take the most stress because that is where your hand goes in and out. Reinforce these corners by sewing a small triangle or box at each top corner. After you finish the main outline, sew a small square about half an inch on each side at the top left corner, then do the same at the top right corner. This extra stitching keeps the pocket from tearing away from the garment after months of use.
Some sewers sew a small diagonal line from the inside corner of the box to the outside corner, creating an X. This is optional but adds extra strength. The reinforcement takes only a minute and makes the difference between a pocket that lasts one season and one that lasts for years.
Fixing Common Mistakes
If your stitching is crooked or you sewed the pocket on upside down, use a seam ripper to remove the stitches. Slide the small curved end of the seam ripper under each stitch and pull up gently. The thread will snap and you can pull it away. Work slowly so you do not tear the fabric underneath. Once the pocket is off, press out the old stitch holes with a hot iron and a damp cloth, then repin and sew again.
If the pocket puckers after you sew it, the fabric was pulled too tight while you were stitching. Unpin the pocket, press it flat again, and resew more slowly. Let the machine feed the fabric instead of pushing it. If the top edge is wavy, you may have stretched the fabric while pressing. Cut a new pocket piece and start over — this is faster than trying to fix a stretched edge.
Sewing Pockets into Seams (Inseam Pockets)
An inseam pocket is built into the side seam of pants or a skirt, so it is invisible from the outside. This pocket is harder than a patch pocket but looks more polished. You cut two pocket pieces, sew them to the front and back panels of your garment before you sew the side seams together, then sew the side seams closed, which closes the pocket at the same time.
Mark where you want the pocket opening on the front and back panels. Cut two pocket pieces from lightweight cotton or linen — these are called pocket bags. Sew one pocket bag to the front panel along the marked line, then sew the other pocket bag to the back panel. Press the seams open. Sew the front and back panels together along the side seam, starting at the armhole and stopping at the top of the pocket opening. Sew around the pocket bags to close them, then continue sewing the side seam from the bottom of the pocket opening to the hem. This method takes longer but the pocket is completely hidden.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thread should I use for a pocket?
Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that matches your garment. If you want the stitching to show, use a contrasting color. For most garments, matching thread is less noticeable and looks more finished. Wind a bobbin with the same thread so the underside of the pocket matches the top.
Can I sew a pocket by hand instead of on a machine?
Yes. Use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand stitch. Bring the needle up through all layers, go back half an inch, and come up half an inch ahead. Repeat all the way around the pocket. Hand sewing takes longer but gives you more control and works well for small pockets or delicate fabrics.
How do I keep the pocket from puckering when I wash the garment?
Use a short stitch length (2.0 or smaller) and reinforce the top corners. Wash the garment inside out the first few times so the pocket does not rub against other clothes. If puckering happens, press the pocket flat with a hot iron and a damp cloth while the garment is still damp from washing.
What is the best fabric for a pocket?
Use the same fabric as your garment so the pocket matches. If your garment is heavy (denim, canvas), use a lighter weight cotton for the pocket so it does not add bulk at the seams. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits unless you use a stabilizer underneath.
How deep should a pocket be?
A functional pocket should be at least 4 inches deep so your hand fits inside comfortably. A decorative pocket can be shallower. Measure your hand from wrist to fingertip and subtract an inch — that is a good depth for a working pocket.