The Two Main Pocket Types and When to Use Each

Most pockets fall into two categories: patch pockets, which sit on top of the fabric and are sewn down around the edges, and inset pockets, which are cut into the garment and hidden inside. Patch pockets are easier for beginners because you sew them after the garment is mostly finished. Inset pockets require planning before you cut your pattern pieces, so they take more steps but look more polished when done.

Choose patch pockets if you are making your first garment or adding pockets to something already sewn. Choose inset pockets if you are following a pattern that includes pocket markings, or if you want the pocket opening to be invisible from the outside. For this guide, we will cover both methods so you can pick the one that fits your project.

Key Takeaways

  • Patch pockets are rectangles of fabric sewn flat onto the outside of a garment, and they are the fastest method for beginners.
  • Inset pockets require you to cut a slit in your garment fabric and sew the pocket bag inside, which takes more steps but looks more finished.
  • Press all pocket pieces with an iron before sewing to make edges crisp and prevent puckering.
  • Sew pocket openings with a straight stitch at 2.5 millimeters length, and backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.
  • Test your pocket depth on scrap fabric first so you know how far down the pocket bag will reach inside the garment.

How to Sew a Patch Pocket

A patch pocket is a rectangle of fabric with finished edges that you sew directly onto the outside of your garment. Start by cutting your pocket piece to the size you want—for example, 5 inches wide by 6 inches tall. Add a half-inch seam allowance on all sides when you cut, so your finished pocket will be 4 inches by 5 inches.

Fold the top edge of the pocket down by half an inch, wrong sides together, and press it flat with an iron. Fold it down again another half inch and press again. This creates a finished edge at the top of the pocket. Sew this folded edge down with a straight stitch, staying close to the inner fold—this is called a topstitch. Use a thread color that matches your garment.

Now fold all four sides of the pocket inward by half an inch and press them flat. The pocket should now be a neat rectangle with all raw edges folded under. Pin the pocket to your garment where you want it to sit. Sew around three sides of the pocket—the bottom and both sides—using a straight stitch. Leave the top open since you already finished that edge. Backstitch at the corners to reinforce them. Remove the pins and try putting something in the pocket to make sure it works.

How to Sew an Inset Pocket

An inset pocket starts with two pieces: a pocket bag (the fabric that holds the contents) and the garment itself. The pocket bag is usually made from cotton lining or a lightweight cotton print. Cut two identical pocket bag pieces, each about 1 inch larger than your finished pocket opening on all sides. For example, if you want a 4-inch-wide opening, cut each bag piece 6 inches wide.

Mark the pocket opening on your garment with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. Most patterns show this as a rectangle—for example, 4 inches wide by 5 inches tall. Pin one pocket bag piece to the wrong side of your garment, lining up the top edge of the bag with the top line of your marked opening. Sew along that top line with a straight stitch, using a 5/8-inch seam allowance (the standard for garment sewing). Backstitch at both ends.

Flip the pocket bag down and press it flat with an iron. Now pin the second pocket bag piece to the first one, right sides together, and sew around three sides—the bottom and both sides—leaving the top open. This creates a pouch. Trim the corners at a diagonal angle to reduce bulk, then turn the pouch right side out and press it flat.

Pin the pouch to the garment so the opening lines up with your marked rectangle. Sew around the entire opening with a straight stitch, staying just inside the marked lines. This stitching will be visible on the right side of the garment, so keep it straight and even. Backstitch at the corners. The pocket is now complete and hidden inside the garment.

Pressing and Finishing Edges

Pressing is the step most beginners skip, and it is the difference between a pocket that looks handmade and one that looks professional. Before you sew anything, press all your pocket pieces with a hot iron set to the fiber content of your fabric. If your fabric is cotton, use the cotton setting. Press until the fabric is completely flat and any wrinkles are gone.

When you fold edges under, press them again before pinning. This heat-sets the fold so it stays in place while you sew and does not shift under the presser foot. If you are making an inset pocket, press the seam allowances to one side after you sew the first line, then press the pocket bag flat before you sew the pouch. These small pauses add time but prevent the puckering and waviness that makes a pocket look unfinished.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is sewing a pocket opening that is not straight. Use a ruler to mark your opening with chalk or pencil before you pin anything. If you are using a pattern, the pattern piece should already have the opening marked—trace it onto your fabric with a pencil and a ruler so the lines are visible.

The second mistake is not backstitching at corners. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and sew the next side. Backstitch for three or four stitches at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread so it does not unravel when someone puts something in the pocket.

The third mistake is making the pocket bag too small. If the bag does not extend far enough into the garment, the pocket will not hold anything. Cut your bag pieces at least 1 inch larger than your opening on all sides, and sew the bottom seam at least 3 inches below the opening. This gives you a pouch that actually works.

Choosing Thread and Needle Size

Use thread that matches your garment fabric in color. If you cannot find an exact match, choose a shade slightly darker than the fabric—it will be less visible than a lighter shade. For most cotton and linen garments, use all-purpose polyester thread, which is strong and works in any machine.

Use a needle size that matches your fabric weight. For lightweight cotton, use a size 60/8 or 70/10 needle. For medium-weight cotton or linen, use a 80/12 or 90/14. For heavier fabrics like denim or canvas, use a 100/16 or 110/18. A needle that is too small will break; a needle that is too large will leave visible holes. Change your needle after every garment or every 8 hours of sewing, because a dull needle causes skipped stitches and puckering.

Testing Your Pocket on Scrap Fabric First

Before you sew a pocket onto your finished garment, test your method on two scraps of the same fabric. Cut a 6-inch square from your garment fabric and a 6-inch square from your lining or pocket bag fabric. Sew a practice pocket using the same stitch length, thread, and needle you plan to use on the real garment. This takes 10 minutes and shows you whether your seam allowances are right, whether your thread tension is balanced, and whether the pocket actually works.

Check that the pocket opening is the size you want, that the stitching is straight, and that the pocket bag is deep enough to hold something. If the stitching is crooked or the pocket is too shallow, you can adjust your technique before you sew on the real garment. This practice piece also lets you see how visible your thread is and whether you need to change colors.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to a garment that is already finished?

Yes, patch pockets are perfect for this. You can sew them onto the outside of a finished shirt, dress, or pair of pants without taking anything apart. Just mark where you want them, press the pocket pieces, and sew them down. Inset pockets require cutting into the garment, so they are not practical for finished pieces.

What fabric should I use for the pocket bag?

Use a lightweight cotton lining, cotton muslin, or a cotton print. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits or anything with a nap (like velvet or corduroy) because they shift while you sew. The pocket bag does not show on the outside, so you can use a contrasting color or pattern if you want.

How deep should a pocket be?

A functional pocket should be at least 4 inches deep from the opening. If it is shallower, things will fall out. For pants or jackets, 5 to 6 inches is standard. For shirts, 4 to 5 inches works. Measure from the opening down to where you sew the bottom seam of the pocket bag.

What stitch length should I use?

Use a straight stitch at 2.5 millimeters length, which is the standard for garment sewing. This is small enough to be strong but large enough to see and rip out if you make a mistake. If your stitch is too short (under 2 millimeters), the fabric can pucker. If it is too long (over 3 millimeters), the seam is weak.

Can I use a serger to sew pockets?

A serger works for finishing the edges of patch pockets, but it is not ideal for sewing the pocket opening itself because sergers cut the fabric as they sew. Stick with a regular sewing machine for the main pocket seams, and use a serger only to finish raw edges if you want a more polished look.