The two main pocket styles and where they go

You can sew pockets into a dress in two ways: patch pockets, which sit on top of the fabric and are visible from the outside, and inseam pockets, which are hidden inside the seams of the dress. Patch pockets are simpler and work on almost any dress style. Inseam pockets require you to add them before you sew the side seams together, so they work best if you are making a dress from a pattern or altering one before final assembly.

Patch pockets go on the hip area of a dress, usually 4 to 6 inches down from the waistline and centered between the side seam and the center front or back. Inseam pockets run along the side seams from the waistline down to the hip or knee, depending on how long you want them. Both styles need to be sewn with a strong stitch because pockets take repeated stress from hands going in and out.

Key Takeaways

  • Patch pockets are sewn on top of the dress fabric after the dress is mostly finished, making them the easiest option for adding pockets to an existing dress.
  • Inseam pockets must be attached before you sew the side seams closed, so plan them into your construction if you are making a dress from scratch.
  • Pocket openings should be at least 5 inches wide so your hand actually fits inside without tearing the seams.
  • Reinforce pocket corners with a small box stitch or triangle stitch to prevent the opening from tearing under the weight of items inside.
  • Use a thread color that matches your dress fabric, or use a neutral color like gray or tan that blends with most fabrics.

How to cut and prepare patch pocket pieces

Cut two identical rectangles from your dress fabric or a coordinating fabric. A standard pocket is 5 to 6 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches tall. If you want a deeper pocket, go up to 8 inches tall. Cut the pieces on grain (along the direction the fabric naturally wants to lie) so the pocket does not pucker or stretch out of shape.

Fold one long edge of each rectangle down by half an inch and press it with an iron. This creates a finished edge at the top of the pocket opening. Fold the remaining three sides down by half an inch as well and press them. You now have a rectangle with all edges folded under and pressed flat. This folded rectangle is your finished pocket piece.

If you want a lined pocket (which looks more polished), cut two pieces from your dress fabric and two from a lightweight lining fabric like cotton lawn. Sew the dress fabric and lining pieces together with right sides facing, leaving a 2-inch opening on one side. Turn the pocket right-side out through the opening, press it flat, and hand-stitch the opening closed. This creates a pocket that looks finished on both sides.

Positioning and pinning the pocket to the dress

Mark the pocket location on your dress with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. For a hip pocket, measure down 4 to 6 inches from your waistline and mark a point. Measure 2 to 3 inches to the left and right of center to find the left and right edges of where the pocket will sit. Mark these points as well.

Pin the finished pocket piece to the dress with the folded edges facing outward. The top edge of the pocket should align with your top mark. Make sure the pocket is straight by checking that the left and right edges are equidistant from the center line. Pin all four sides, placing pins every inch or so around the perimeter. Step back and look at the dress to make sure the pocket looks level and centered before you sew.

Sewing the pocket to the dress with reinforced corners

Thread your needle with thread that matches your dress. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. Start at the top left corner of the pocket. Sew along the left edge, across the bottom, and up the right edge, stopping about half an inch before the top right corner.

At the top right corner, sew a small box or triangle to reinforce the corner. To sew a box, stitch a small square (about half an inch on each side) at the corner, then stitch an X through the middle of the square. This creates multiple layers of thread that prevent the pocket opening from tearing when you put weight in it. Finish sewing the top edge of the pocket from the reinforced corner to the top left corner.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins and press the pocket with an iron to flatten the seam. Repeat this process for the second pocket on the other side of the dress.

Adding inseam pockets before closing the side seams

Inseam pockets must be sewn into the side seams before you close those seams. Cut two pocket pieces from your dress fabric, each about 6 inches wide and 8 inches tall. Fold each piece in half lengthwise with right sides together and sew the two short ends and one long end, leaving the fold open. Turn the pocket right-side out and press it flat.

Pin the open edge of the pocket to the inside of the dress at the side seam, with the pocket opening facing inward. The top of the pocket should start at the waistline and extend down toward the hip. Pin the other pocket piece to the opposite side seam in the same way. Now sew the side seams of the dress as normal, catching the pocket edges in the seam. The pockets will be enclosed inside the dress, with only the opening visible from the inside.

Finishing the pocket opening and testing the fit

Once the side seams are closed, the pocket opening should be visible on the inside of the dress. If you want the opening to look neat, fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and press them, then topstitch (sew a visible line of stitching) around the opening with matching thread. This prevents fraying and gives the pocket a finished look.

Try on the dress and put your hand into each pocket to make sure it is deep enough and wide enough to be useful. If a pocket feels too shallow, you can add a second pocket piece behind the first one to extend the depth. If the opening is too narrow, you may need to unpick the seam and reposition the pocket with a wider opening.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is making the pocket opening too small. A 4-inch opening sounds reasonable until you try to fit your hand inside without tearing the seams. Aim for at least 5 inches wide. Another mistake is forgetting to reinforce the corners, which leads to the pocket tearing at the top corners after a few weeks of use. Always sew a box or triangle at both top corners.

Sewing pockets with thread that does not match the dress makes them stand out, even if they are well-made. Use thread in the same color as your dress, or choose a neutral shade like gray, tan, or off-white that blends with most fabrics. If you are using a patterned fabric, match the thread to the dominant color in the pattern.

Do not sew pockets too close to the seams or too far from the center. A pocket that is too close to the side seam will feel uncomfortable when you sit down. A pocket that is too far toward the center front will look lopsided. The sweet spot is usually 2 to 3 inches from the side seam.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to a dress that is already finished?

Yes, patch pockets are the only option for a finished dress. Inseam pockets cannot be added after the side seams are closed. Cut and prepare your patch pocket pieces, position them on the dress, and sew them down with a reinforced stitch at the corners. This works on any dress style.

What fabric should I use for the pocket pieces?

Use the same fabric as your dress if you want the pockets to blend in. If you want contrast pockets, choose a coordinating fabric in a complementary color or pattern. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim or canvas for pockets on lightweight dresses, as they will pull the dress out of shape.

How deep should pockets be?

Pockets should be at least 6 inches deep so you can fit your hand inside comfortably. If you plan to carry keys or a phone, make them 7 to 8 inches deep. Deeper pockets add weight to the dress, so balance depth against how much you actually need to carry.

Do I need to use a sewing machine, or can I hand-sew pockets?

You can hand-sew pockets, but a sewing machine creates a stronger, more durable seam that is less likely to tear. If you hand-sew, use a backstitch and sew through all layers at least twice to build strength. Machine-sewn pockets are recommended for dresses you wear frequently.

What if my pocket opening is tearing?

Reinforce the torn area by sewing a small patch of fabric behind the tear on the inside of the dress, then sew over the tear itself with a tight zigzag stitch. For future pockets, always sew a reinforced box or triangle at the top corners to prevent tearing before it starts.