The Basic Method for Adding Pockets to Any Skirt

Sewing pockets into a skirt means cutting openings in the fabric, attaching pocket bags (the hidden fabric pouches), and finishing the edges so they don't fray. The most common approach is the side seam pocket, which uses the existing seam line on the skirt's side to anchor the pocket opening. This method works on nearly any skirt style and requires only basic sewing skills.

The pocket bag itself is made from two pieces of fabric sewn together and attached to the skirt from the inside. When done correctly, the opening is invisible from the outside—only a small slit in the seam shows where your hand goes in. The whole process takes about 30 to 45 minutes per pocket once you understand the steps.

Key Takeaways

  • Side seam pockets are sewn into the existing side seam of the skirt before the seam is fully closed, making them the easiest method for beginners.
  • Pocket bags are cut from cotton muslin or lining fabric, not from your skirt fabric, to keep bulk down and prevent show-through.
  • You need to mark the pocket opening location on your pattern or skirt pieces before cutting, typically 2 to 3 inches wide and 5 to 6 inches long.
  • The pocket opening is sewn shut as part of the side seam closure, so pockets must be installed before you finish sewing the skirt together.
  • Pressing and topstitching the pocket opening edges prevents them from rolling inward and makes the pocket feel more finished and durable.

What You Need Before You Start

Gather a needle (hand or machine), thread that matches your skirt, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. You will also need fabric for the pocket bags—use lightweight cotton muslin, cotton voile, or lining fabric in a neutral color. Do not use your skirt fabric itself, because two layers of thick fabric at the pocket opening will create visible bulk on the outside of the skirt.

If you are sewing by machine, a standard sewing machine with a straight stitch is all you need. If you are hand-sewing, use a needle small enough to pass through your skirt fabric without leaving large holes. Have your skirt pattern on hand so you can see where the side seams are marked.

Marking and Cutting the Pocket Opening

The pocket opening sits along the side seam of the skirt, usually between 2 and 3 inches from the waistband and about 2 to 3 inches wide. If your pattern includes pocket markings, use those. If not, measure down from the waistband on the front skirt piece and mark a horizontal line about 2 inches long with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. This is where your hand will enter the pocket.

Do not cut the skirt fabric yet. Instead, cut two pocket bag pieces from your muslin or lining fabric. Each piece should be roughly 5 to 6 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches long—large enough to hold small items like a phone or keys. Round the bottom corners slightly so they won't poke into your leg. Pin these pieces to the wrong side of your skirt front and back pieces, aligning one long edge of each pocket bag with the side seam line.

Sewing the Pocket Bag to the Skirt

With the pocket bags pinned in place, sew them to the skirt using a straight stitch about 1/4 inch from the edge where they meet the side seam. Sew from the top of the pocket bag down to the bottom, then backstitch to find. Do this on both the front and back skirt pieces. The pocket bags are now attached to the skirt, but the opening is not yet closed.

Now sew the side seam of the skirt as normal, but stop when you reach the top of the pocket opening. Sew across the pocket opening (this closes it), then continue down the side seam past the bottom of the pocket opening. This single seam line closes the pocket opening and finishes the side seam at the same time. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance and backstitch at the start and end of the pocket opening to reinforce it.

Finishing the Pocket Edges

Once the side seam is sewn, trim the seam allowance around the pocket opening to about 1/4 inch to reduce bulk. Press the seam allowance open with an iron, then press the pocket opening edges flat. If you are using a machine, topstitch 1/8 inch away from the pocket opening on both sides of the seam to hold the edges in place and prevent them from rolling inward when the skirt is worn.

Trim any loose threads and press the entire side seam one more time. The pocket opening should now feel smooth and lie flat against the skirt. From the outside, you should see only a small slit in the seam; the pocket bags are completely hidden on the inside.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is sewing the pocket bags to the skirt with the wrong sides facing each other. The pocket bags should be sewn with their right sides facing the wrong side of the skirt fabric, so the finished seams end up on the inside where they cannot be seen. Check this before you sew.

Another frequent problem is making the pocket opening too small. If it is less than 2 inches wide, your hand will not fit through comfortably. Conversely, an opening wider than 3 inches can feel floppy and may allow items to fall out. Stick to the 2- to 3-inch range for the best balance of access and security.

Do not skip the topstitching step. Without it, the pocket opening edges can roll inward over time, making the pocket uncomfortable to use and the seam look unfinished. Topstitching takes only a few minutes and makes a visible difference in durability.

Sewing Pockets by Hand

If you do not have access to a sewing machine, you can sew pockets entirely by hand using a backstitch. Pin the pocket bags to the skirt pieces and sew them down with a backstitch about 1/4 inch from the edge, using small, even stitches. Then sew the side seam by hand, stopping and starting at the pocket opening as described above.

Hand-sewing takes longer—expect 60 to 90 minutes per pocket—but the result is just as strong if your stitches are even and close together. Use a needle that fits your fabric and thread that matches your skirt so any visible stitches blend in.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to a skirt that is already finished?

Yes, but it is more difficult. You will need to carefully cut open the side seam where you want the pocket, insert the pocket bags, and resew the seam. This works best on skirts with a visible side seam or a seam that runs the full length of the side. On skirts with no side seam or a partial seam, pockets are nearly impossible to add after the fact.

What fabric should I use for pocket bags?

Cotton muslin, cotton voile, cotton lining, or even lightweight cotton quilting fabric all work well. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or lycra, which will distort over time. The pocket bag fabric does not need to match your skirt—neutral colors like white, cream, or gray are fine since they will not be visible.

How deep should the pocket bags be?

A depth of 6 to 7 inches is standard and holds most small items comfortably. If you want to carry larger items like a small wallet, make them 7 to 8 inches deep. Avoid making them deeper than 8 inches, as they can feel awkward and may sag over time.

Do I need to reinforce the pocket opening with a bar tack?

A bar tack (a short line of stitches sewn back and forth) at the top and bottom of the pocket opening adds durability, especially if you plan to use the pockets frequently. It is not required, but it prevents the opening from tearing under stress. If you sew by machine, use your machine's bar tack stitch or straightforward sew back and forth over the same spot three times.

What if my skirt pattern does not include pocket markings?

You can add pockets to any skirt pattern by marking the opening yourself. Measure down 2 to 3 inches from the waistband on the front skirt piece and mark a horizontal line 2 to 3 inches long. Make sure the opening is at least 1 inch away from the waistband seam and at least 2 inches away from the hem so the pocket bags do not interfere with other seams.