The two pocket types and which one to choose
Most pants have either patch pockets (sewn on top of the fabric) or inseam pockets (built into the side seam). Patch pockets are simpler to add to finished pants because they sit on the outside. Inseam pockets require opening the seam, which means you need access to the inside of the pant leg and more sewing skill.
If you are adding pockets to pants that already exist, patch pockets are the practical choice. If you are making pants from scratch or have the legs unfinished, inseam pockets work better and look more polished. The choice depends on whether you want visible stitching (patch) or hidden seams (inseam).
Key Takeaways
- Patch pockets are sewn directly onto the outside of finished pants and require only a needle, thread, and basic straight stitching.
- Inseam pockets are built into the side seam and need the seam opened, making them harder to add to pants that are already complete.
- Measure and mark pocket placement before cutting fabric to avoid mistakes that waste material.
- Reinforce pocket corners with a small box stitch or X pattern to prevent tearing under weight and use.
- Press seams flat with an iron after sewing to make pockets lie smooth and look professional.
Measuring and marking pocket placement
Pocket placement matters for both fit and appearance. On most pants, side pockets sit about 4 to 5 inches down from the waistband and roughly 2 to 3 inches in from the side seam. Mark this spot on the outside of the pant leg with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil—not a regular pen, which can bleed through or stain.
Measure twice to make sure both pockets are at the same height. Use a ruler or measuring tape and mark the top corners of where the pocket will sit. For patch pockets, this is where the top edge of the pocket fabric will begin. Step back and look at the pants on a flat surface or on your body to check that the marks look even before you cut anything.
Cutting and preparing patch pocket fabric
Cut your pocket pieces from the same fabric as the pants or from a coordinating weight of cotton or linen. A typical pocket is 5 to 6 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches tall, though you can adjust based on how deep you want the pocket to be. Cut two pieces if you are making two pockets, and add a half-inch seam allowance on all sides.
Fold the top edge of each pocket piece down by half an inch and press it flat with an iron. This creates a finished edge that will not fray. Fold the other three sides down by a quarter inch and press those as well. This step takes a few minutes but makes the pocket look neat and prevents raw edges from showing or unraveling over time.
Sewing patch pockets by hand or machine
Pin the folded pocket piece to the marked spot on the pant leg, making sure it sits straight and flat. If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch with medium tension and sew around all four sides of the pocket, staying about a quarter inch from the edge. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.
For hand sewing, use a needle and thread that matches the pocket fabric or the pants. Make small, even stitches about an eighth inch apart, working around the perimeter of the pocket. A running stitch works, but a backstitch is stronger and less likely to come loose. Tie off the thread securely inside the pant leg when you reach the starting point.
Reinforcing corners to prevent tearing
Pocket corners take the most stress because that is where fabric bunches when you put your hand in. After sewing around the perimeter, go back and reinforce each corner with extra stitching. Sew a small box shape at each corner—about half an inch by half an inch—or stitch an X across the corner point.
This extra step takes only a minute per pocket but doubles the lifespan of the pocket. Without reinforcement, corners often tear open within a few months of regular use. If you are using a machine, lower the presser foot and sew slowly through the corner area. If you are hand sewing, make your stitches slightly closer together at the corners.
Adding inseam pockets to unfinished pants
Inseam pockets are built during construction, before the side seam is closed. Cut two pocket pieces from lining fabric or cotton—each about 6 inches wide and 8 inches tall. Pin the first pocket piece to the inside of the front pant leg, with the top edge aligned to where the side seam will be. Sew it down using a quarter-inch seam allowance.
Pin the second pocket piece to the inside of the back pant leg in the same way. Then close the side seam by sewing from the waistband down, catching the pocket edges as you go. The pocket pieces stay inside the pant leg, and only the opening shows on the outside. Press the seam flat when finished so the pocket lies smooth.
Pressing and finishing the pockets
After sewing, use an iron to press all seams flat. This step is not optional—it makes the difference between pockets that look homemade and pockets that look professional. Place a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth or even a clean dish towel) over the pocket area and press with medium heat for a few seconds. Do not use high heat on synthetic fabrics, which can melt or shine.
Press from the inside of the pant leg first, then flip and press from the outside. This removes wrinkles and helps the pocket fabric settle into place. If the pocket edges curl or pucker, press them again with a bit of steam. Let the pants cool completely before wearing or washing them so the creases set properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add pockets to pants that are already hemmed?
Yes, patch pockets work on finished pants. Inseam pockets are much harder because you would need to unpick the side seam, which risks damaging the fabric and the hem. Stick with patch pockets for pants that are already complete.
What thread color should I use?
Match the thread to the pocket fabric if the pocket is visible, or to the pants if you want the stitching to blend in. If you are using a contrasting thread for style, make sure it coordinates with both the pocket and the pants. Test on a scrap of fabric first to see how it looks.
How deep should the pocket opening be?
A pocket opening of 5 to 6 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches deep is standard and holds a phone, keys, or a small wallet comfortably. Make it wider or deeper if you want to carry larger items, but remember that very deep pockets can look bulky or throw off the pant silhouette.
What happens if my pocket stitching comes loose?
Restitch the loose section using a needle and thread that matches the original stitching. If the corner has torn, you may need to remove the old pocket and sew a new one in the same spot. Catching loose stitches early prevents the pocket from tearing further.
Do I need a sewing machine to add pockets?
No. Hand sewing works perfectly well and gives you more control over placement and tension. It takes longer than a machine—usually 15 to 20 minutes per pocket—but the result is just as strong if your stitches are even and tight.