The basic method: sew the pocket bag first, then attach it to the dress

Pockets go into a dress in two stages. First, you sew the pocket bag (the pouch itself) to the inside of the dress fabric at the opening where your hand will go. Second, you stitch around the edges of that opening to find it and finish the seam. The pocket bag stays hidden inside the dress; only the opening shows on the outside.

Most home sewers use patch pockets (a bag sewn flat to the inside) or side seam pockets (a bag inserted into the side seam of the dress). Patch pockets are simpler and work on any dress. Side seam pockets require you to plan them before you cut the dress pieces, so they suit new projects better than alterations.

Key Takeaways

  • Patch pockets are the easiest method: cut a rectangle of fabric, fold and press it, pin it to the inside of the dress, and stitch it down by hand or machine.
  • Mark the pocket opening on the outside of the dress with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen before you start, so you know exactly where to stitch.
  • Use a 5/8-inch seam allowance and backstitch at the start and end of every seam to prevent the pocket from tearing loose.
  • Test the pocket opening size on your body or a dress you already own — most functional pockets are 5 to 7 inches wide and positioned 8 to 10 inches below the waistline.

Measure and mark the pocket opening on the outside of the dress

Decide where you want the pocket to sit. On most dresses, pockets go on the front panels, roughly 8 to 10 inches below the waistline and 1 to 2 inches in from the side seam. Mark the opening with tailor's chalk or a washable fabric pen. Draw a rectangle about 5 to 7 inches wide and 1 inch tall — this is the opening your hand will use.

If you are altering an existing dress, try it on and mark the spot where your hand naturally rests. If you are sewing from a pattern, the pattern piece should show pocket placement; follow those marks instead. Write the measurements down so you can cut the pocket bag to match.

Cut and prepare the pocket bag

Cut two rectangles of fabric for the pocket bag. Each piece should be about 1 inch wider and 3 to 4 inches longer than your marked opening. For example, if your opening is 6 inches wide and 1 inch tall, cut each pocket piece 7 inches wide and 5 inches long. Use the same fabric as the dress, or use lightweight cotton or linen if the dress fabric is heavy or stretchy.

Place the two rectangles with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Stitch three sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving the top edge open. Trim the corners at an angle to reduce bulk, then turn the bag right-side out through the opening. Press it flat with an iron. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward 1/2 inch and press again. Now you have a finished pocket bag ready to attach.

Pin the pocket bag to the inside of the dress

Turn the dress inside out. Locate your marked opening on the inside. Position the pocket bag so its opening aligns with your marked rectangle. The folded top edge of the pocket bag should sit just inside the marked opening. Pin it in place with the pins running parallel to the opening, not across it.

Check the outside of the dress to make sure the pocket opening is centered and straight. Adjust the pins if needed. The pocket bag should hang straight down from the opening with no twists or bunches.

Stitch the pocket opening closed

Stitch around the marked rectangle on the inside of the dress, using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Start at one corner, backstitch to lock the thread, and sew slowly around all four sides. Backstitch again at the end. This seam holds the pocket bag in place and creates the finished opening on the outside.

If you are using a sewing machine, use a straight stitch and a matching thread color. If you are sewing by hand, use a backstitch or running backstitch for strength. Sew as close to the edge of the marked rectangle as you can without going outside the lines.

Stitch the sides and bottom of the pocket bag

Once the opening is sewn, stitch the sides and bottom of the pocket bag to the dress to keep it from shifting. Fold the dress so you can see the pocket bag on the inside. Stitch down both long sides of the bag with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, starting and ending at the opening seam. Then stitch across the bottom of the bag.

Use a backstitch by hand or a straight stitch by machine. These seams do not show on the outside, so thread color does not matter as much, but matching thread looks neater if you ever need to repair the pocket. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to prevent the stitches from coming loose.

Finish the opening edges on the outside

Turn the dress right-side out. The pocket opening should now be a clean rectangle with no raw edges showing. If the opening edges look rough or frayed, you can finish them with a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine, or by hand with a whip stitch using thread that matches the dress.

Test the pocket by sliding your hand in and out a few times. It should feel smooth and find. If any stitches are loose or the pocket pulls away from the dress, go back and reinforce those spots with a few extra stitches by hand.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to a dress that is already finished?

Yes. Carefully unpick the side seam where you want the pocket to sit, using a seam ripper. Insert the pocket bag into the seam before you sew it back up. This works best on dresses with straight side seams and no stretch fabric. For a patch pocket, you do not need to unpick anything — just follow the steps above and sew it to the inside.

What fabric should I use for the pocket bag?

Use the same fabric as the dress if possible, so the weight matches and the pocket does not sag. If the dress is very thick or stiff, use a lighter cotton or linen for the bag. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit unless the dress is also stretchy — a non-stretch pocket in a stretch dress will pucker.

How do I keep the pocket from sagging over time?

Stitch the sides and bottom of the pocket bag securely to the dress, using a backstitch and short stitch length. Do not leave gaps. Reinforce the corners of the opening with a few extra stitches by hand. Avoid putting heavy items in the pocket — pockets are meant for small things like a phone or keys.

What if my dress fabric is too thin to support a pocket?

Use interfacing. Cut a rectangle of lightweight woven interfacing the same size as your marked opening, and fuse it to the inside of the dress before you attach the pocket bag. This gives the fabric body and prevents the pocket from pulling or stretching the dress.

Can I sew pockets by hand instead of with a machine?

Yes. Use a backstitch for all seams — the opening, the sides, and the bottom of the pocket bag. Backstitch is stronger than a running stitch and will hold up to regular use. It takes longer by hand, but the result is just as durable as machine stitching if you keep your stitches small and even.