The two pocket styles and where they go

You can sew pockets into a skirt in two ways: side seam pockets, which sit in the side seams and are the easiest route, and patch pockets, which you cut and stitch to the outside of the skirt fabric. Side seam pockets are invisible when the skirt is worn and work with almost any skirt pattern. Patch pockets are visible and decorative, so they suit casual skirts and give you control over placement and size.

Side seam pockets work best if you are building a skirt from a pattern that already includes them, or if you are altering an existing skirt with a seam you can open. Patch pockets can be added to a finished skirt without unpicking anything, which makes them the faster choice if you want pockets on a skirt you already own.

Key Takeaways

  • Side seam pockets are sewn into the side seams during skirt construction and are hidden when worn, but require you to work from a pattern or open an existing seam.
  • Patch pockets are cut from fabric and stitched to the outside of the skirt, making them visible but easier to add to a finished skirt.
  • Pocket bags (the hidden part) should be cut from lining fabric or lightweight cotton, not from the same fabric as the skirt, to avoid bulk.
  • Reinforce pocket openings with a small rectangle of interfacing on the inside to prevent tearing from repeated use.
  • Test your pocket depth and placement on paper before cutting into fabric, because mistakes in pocket position are hard to hide.

How to add side seam pockets during construction

If you are making a skirt from a pattern, check whether the pattern pieces include pocket bag pieces. If they do, you will cut two pocket bag pieces for each pocket (one for the front, one for the back). If your pattern does not include them, you can draft your own: pocket bags are usually 6 to 8 inches wide and 7 to 9 inches deep, shaped like a rounded rectangle.

Before you sew the side seams, pin the front pocket bag to the front skirt piece and the back pocket bag to the back skirt piece, with right sides together. Stitch them in place along the curved edge that will become the pocket opening. Then sew the side seams of the skirt as normal, catching the pocket bags in the seam. The pocket bags will be sandwiched between the front and back layers, with the opening facing inward. Stitch the two pocket bags together along their outer edges to close them.

The pocket opening itself sits in the side seam, so it is completely hidden when the skirt is finished. This is why side seam pockets are so clean-looking—there is nothing visible from the outside.

How to add patch pockets to a finished skirt

Patch pockets are easier to add after the skirt is complete. Decide where you want the pocket to sit—usually on the front panels, about 4 to 6 inches down from the waistband and 2 to 3 inches in from the side seam. Mark the placement lightly with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk.

Cut two pieces of pocket fabric (lining or lightweight cotton works best) to the size and shape you want—a straightforward rectangle 5 to 6 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches deep is standard. Place them right sides together, stitch around three sides, and leave one short end open. Turn the pocket right side out, press it flat, and fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch, then press again.

Pin the pocket to the skirt at your marked position. Stitch it down on three sides, leaving the top open. Use a straight stitch about a quarter inch from the edge, and backstitch at the corners to reinforce them. If you want the pocket to look more finished, you can topstitch it—stitch again a quarter inch inside the first line of stitching—which also makes the pocket stronger.

Reinforcing pocket openings so they do not tear

Pockets take a lot of stress. Every time someone puts their hand in or pulls something out, the fabric around the opening stretches. Without reinforcement, the stitching can eventually tear away from the skirt.

For side seam pockets, explore a small rectangle of interfacing to the inside of the skirt at the pocket opening before you sew anything. Cut a piece about 1 inch wide and 2 inches tall, center it over where the pocket opening will be, and fuse it according to the interfacing package directions. This gives the fabric extra stability right where it needs it.

For patch pockets, reinforce the top corners by stitching a small triangle or box at each corner before you topstitch the pocket. Stitch from the top corner down about half an inch, across, and back up to the corner. This locks the pocket opening in place and prevents the stitching from pulling loose.

Choosing the right fabric for pocket bags

Pocket bags should never be cut from the same fabric as the skirt. If you use heavy cotton or linen for the skirt, the pocket bags will create a thick, stiff lump inside the seams that shows from the outside. Instead, use lining fabric (usually a smooth, lightweight polyester or cotton blend), or plain lightweight cotton like quilting cotton or muslin.

Lining fabric is ideal because it is slippery, so hands slide in and out of pockets easily, and it does not fray as much as regular cotton. If you do not have lining fabric, a lightweight cotton in a neutral color works fine. Avoid anything stretchy or flimsy—the pocket bags need to hold their shape and support the weight of whatever goes in them.

Testing pocket placement before you commit

Pocket placement is one of the hardest things to fix if you get it wrong. Before you cut into your skirt fabric, make a paper template. Cut a rectangle the size of your planned pocket from kraft paper or newspaper, and tape it to the skirt where you think the pocket should go. Try the skirt on and move around—sit down, reach, walk. Does the pocket sit where your hand naturally goes? Is it too high or too low? Does it look balanced with the rest of the skirt?

Once you are happy with the placement, mark it on the skirt with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. For patch pockets, mark the top corners and the bottom corners. For side seam pockets, mark where the opening should start and end along the seam. Taking five minutes to test saves you from unpicking stitches later.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is making pockets too shallow. A pocket that is less than 6 inches deep will not hold much, and things fall out easily. Aim for at least 7 inches deep, and 8 inches if the skirt is for everyday wear.

The second mistake is placing pockets too far forward or too far back on the side seam. If they sit too far forward, they pull the skirt fabric and make the front look bunched. If they sit too far back, your hand does not reach them naturally. The pocket opening should sit roughly where your hand rests when your arm hangs at your side.

A third mistake is using fabric that is too heavy for the pocket bags. Thick fabric creates visible ridges on the outside of the skirt and makes the seams bulky. Stick with lining or lightweight cotton, even if the skirt itself is made from heavy fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to a skirt that is already hemmed?

Yes, patch pockets are the best choice for a finished skirt. You do not need to unpick anything—just mark your placement, cut the pocket pieces, and stitch them on. Side seam pockets require opening the seam, so they are much more work on a finished skirt unless the seam is already coming apart.

What is the best depth for a pocket?

Seven to nine inches deep is standard and holds most everyday items. If the skirt is very full or flowy, you can go deeper without it looking odd. If the skirt is fitted or narrow, keep pockets shallower so they do not add bulk.

Should pocket bags be the same color as the skirt?

No. Pocket bags should be a neutral color that matches the lining or interior of the skirt, not the outside. If the pocket bag fabric shows at the opening, a contrasting color looks sloppy. Neutral tones like cream, gray, or black work with almost any skirt.

How do I keep patch pockets from sagging over time?

Reinforce the top corners with a small triangle of stitching, and make sure you stitch the pocket down on all three sides (not just two). Use a thread color that matches the pocket fabric so the stitching does not show. Topstitching also helps—it makes the pocket stronger and gives it a more finished look.

Can I add pockets to a stretchy or knit skirt?

Yes, but use interfacing on the skirt fabric where the pocket will attach, and use a ballpoint needle on your machine to avoid snagging the knit. Patch pockets work better on knits than side seam pockets, because the seams in knit skirts are often finished with a serger and are harder to open without damage.