Sewing a pocket starts with marking the placement, cutting your fabric, and stitching three sides to the shirt body

A pocket is a fabric pouch sewn onto the outside of a shirt. You mark where it goes, cut a rectangle of fabric (usually matching the shirt or a contrasting material), fold and press the edges, pin it to the shirt, and stitch around three sides with a needle and thread or a sewing machine. The opening at the top stays open so you can use the pocket. Most people use a straight stitch and sew about a quarter-inch from the edge of the pocket.

The whole process takes 20 to 45 minutes per pocket, depending on whether you use a machine or hand-sew and how carefully you want the finish to look. You will need thread that matches your shirt (or contrasts intentionally), a needle or machine, pins, scissors, and a ruler or measuring tape.

Key Takeaways

  • Mark the pocket location on your shirt with a pencil or tailor's chalk before you cut any fabric, so you know exactly where it will sit.
  • Cut a rectangle of fabric about 1 to 2 inches larger than your finished pocket size to account for seam allowances and folding.
  • Fold the top edge of the pocket down about half an inch, press it flat with an iron, and fold it again to hide the raw edge before pinning to the shirt.
  • Stitch three sides of the pocket (both long sides and the bottom) using a straight stitch about a quarter-inch from the edge, leaving the top open.
  • A sewing machine is faster and more even, but hand-sewing with a backstitch produces a strong seam if you keep your stitches small and close together.

Marking and measuring the pocket location

Decide where you want the pocket to sit on the shirt. Most chest pockets sit about 3 to 4 inches below the shoulder seam and centered between the armpit and the center of the chest. Patch pockets on the hip or side of the shirt usually sit about 4 to 6 inches down from the waistline. Use a ruler and a pencil or tailor's chalk to lightly mark the four corners of where your finished pocket will be.

Take a moment to step back and look at the placement. If the shirt has a pattern or stripes, try to align the pocket so it looks intentional—centered on a stripe, for example, rather than cutting across it awkwardly. Mark the outline lightly so you can erase or brush away the chalk later.

Cutting and preparing the pocket fabric

Cut a rectangle of fabric that is about 1 to 2 inches larger all around than your finished pocket. If you want a finished pocket that is 4 inches wide and 5 inches tall, cut a piece that is 6 inches wide and 7 inches tall. This extra fabric is your seam allowance—the part that gets folded under or stitched into the seam.

Fold the top edge of the pocket rectangle down about half an inch to the wrong side (the back of the fabric), and press it flat with an iron on medium heat. Then fold it down another half inch and press again. This double fold hides the raw edge and gives the pocket opening a finished look. Pin this folded edge in place if you want, but many people skip this step and just fold it as they go.

Fold the other three sides (left, right, and bottom) down about half an inch as well and press them. You now have a rectangle with all edges folded under, ready to pin to the shirt.

Pinning the pocket to the shirt

Lay the shirt flat on a table or ironing board. Position the folded pocket on top of the shirt, aligning it with the marks you made earlier. The folded edges should face outward—you are looking at the finished side of the pocket. Pin around all four sides, placing pins about 2 inches apart. Make sure the pocket sits flat and does not pucker or shift.

Check the alignment one more time before you stitch. Step back and look at the pocket from a distance. If it looks crooked or off-center, unpin it and reposition. It is much easier to adjust now than to unpick stitches later.

Stitching the pocket with a sewing machine

Thread your machine with thread that matches your shirt. Set the stitch length to about 2.5 millimeters (a standard straight stitch). Start at the top left corner of the pocket, just below the folded top edge. Sew down the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side, stopping just below the top edge. Leave the top open—that is your pocket opening.

Sew slowly and keep the needle about a quarter-inch from the edge of the pocket. Use the edge of the presser foot as a guide if your machine has a quarter-inch mark. When you reach a corner, lower the needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the shirt, lower the presser foot again, and continue. This keeps the corner sharp and even.

When you finish, backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then trim the thread tails. Remove the pins as you go or after you finish stitching.

Hand-sewing the pocket with a needle and thread

If you do not have a sewing machine, you can hand-sew the pocket using a backstitch, which is the strongest hand stitch for seams. Thread a needle and knot the end. Start at the top left corner of the pocket, just below the folded top edge. Push the needle through both layers of fabric (the pocket and the shirt) from back to front.

Bring the needle back through about a quarter-inch to the left, then push it forward again a quarter-inch to the right, going through both layers. Each stitch should be small and tight. Keep the stitches close together—about 10 to 12 per inch—so the seam is strong. Sew down the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side, leaving the top open.

When you reach the end, push the needle through to the back of the shirt and make several small stitches in place to lock the thread. Trim the thread close to the fabric.

Finishing and reinforcing the pocket corners

Once you have stitched three sides, the pocket is functional. However, the top corners—where the pocket opening meets the sides—take the most stress when you reach into the pocket. Many people reinforce these corners by stitching a small triangle or a short line at each top corner. This keeps the pocket from tearing away from the shirt over time.

To reinforce, stitch a small triangle about half an inch on each side of the top corner, or sew a short horizontal line (about half an inch long) just above where the pocket side seam ends. You can do this by machine or by hand. This extra stitching is not required, but it extends the life of the pocket.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a pocket on a shirt that is already finished and washed?

Yes. Wash and dry the shirt first so it will not shrink after the pocket is attached. Press the area where the pocket will go to flatten it. The process is the same as sewing on a new shirt.

What thread color should I use?

Use thread that matches the shirt fabric for a subtle look, or use a contrasting color if you want the pocket to stand out as a design detail. The thread color is visible in the stitching line, so choose based on the look you want.

How deep should the pocket be?

A functional pocket is usually 4 to 6 inches tall and 3 to 5 inches wide. Smaller pockets are decorative and do not hold much. Larger pockets can look bulky and may sag under weight. Start with a 4-by-5-inch finished pocket if you are unsure.

What happens if I sew the pocket opening closed by mistake?

You will need to carefully cut open the top edge with a seam ripper or small scissors, then hand-stitch the raw edges closed to prevent fraying. It is easier to mark the top edge with a pin or piece of tape before you start stitching so you remember to leave it open.

Can I use a different fabric for the pocket than the shirt?

Yes. Contrasting fabric, denim, or canvas can look intentional and add visual interest. Make sure the fabric weight is similar to the shirt—a very heavy fabric on a light shirt will pull and pucker. Test the combination by holding them together before you cut.