What you're actually doing when you convert a skirt to shorts

Converting a skirt to shorts means cutting off the lower portion of the skirt at your chosen length, then finishing the raw edge so it doesn't fray. You're not removing a hem and reusing it—you're creating a new hem at a higher point. The waistband, side seams, and zipper (if there is one) stay exactly as they are. This works best on skirts with a straight or A-line cut; heavily gathered or pleated skirts become bulky at the new hem and often don't look right.

The process takes two to four hours depending on the skirt's weight and your sewing speed. You'll need basic hand-sewing or machine-sewing skills—nothing beyond a straight stitch. The hardest part is usually measuring and marking the cut line evenly, not the actual sewing.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure from the waistband down to your desired shorts length, then add 1.5 inches for the hem allowance before you cut.
  • Mark your cut line all the way around the skirt with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil, then cut slowly and straight to avoid uneven legs.
  • Fold the raw edge up 0.75 inches, press it flat with an iron, fold it up again, and stitch it down by hand or machine for a clean finish.
  • Try on the shorts before you cut if the skirt is loose enough to slip over your hips; if not, you may need to open a side seam temporarily.

Measure twice, cut once—how to find your cut line

Put on the skirt and stand in front of a mirror. Decide where you want the shorts to end—at mid-thigh, just above the knee, or wherever feels right to you. Have someone mark that spot with a pin, or use a measuring tape to note the distance from the waistband down to that point. Write the number down.

Take the skirt off and lay it flat on a table or large cutting surface. Measure down from the waistband at the center front, center back, and both side seams using the number you just wrote. Add 1.5 inches to that measurement—that extra space is your hem allowance. Mark all four points with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. Then connect those points with a straight line all the way around the skirt, using a ruler or a long straightedge to keep the line level. Step back and look at it. If the line looks crooked or uneven, erase and redraw it.

The reason you add 1.5 inches is that you'll fold the raw edge up twice (0.75 inches each time) to hide it and prevent fraying. If you cut right at your desired length, the finished shorts will be shorter than you planned.

Cutting the skirt straight and even

Use sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter—dull scissors will pull the fabric and create an uneven edge. Cut slowly along your marked line. Don't rush. If the skirt is made of slippery fabric like satin or rayon, pin the layers together every few inches before you cut so they don't shift.

Once you've cut all the way around, try the shorts on to check the length. If they're too long, you can cut more off the bottom. If they're too short, you've made a mistake—you can't add fabric back. This is why measuring carefully matters.

If the skirt has a lining, you'll need to cut the lining separately at the same length. Cut it about 0.5 inches shorter than the outer fabric so it doesn't show below the hem.

Finishing the raw edge with a double-fold hem

A double-fold hem is the standard way to finish shorts. Fold the raw edge up 0.75 inches and press it flat with an iron on medium heat. Then fold it up another 0.75 inches and press again. The raw edge is now hidden inside the fold. Pin the fold in place every few inches so it doesn't shift while you sew.

Sew the hem down using either a sewing machine or a needle and thread. On a machine, use a straight stitch and sew as close to the inner fold as you can—usually about 0.125 inches from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. By hand, use a slip stitch: bring the needle up through the fold, slide it through the fabric just above the fold for about 0.25 inches, then back down into the fold. Repeat all the way around. A slip stitch is nearly invisible when done right.

If the skirt is heavy or stiff (like denim or canvas), a machine stitch is faster and stronger. If it's delicate (like linen or cotton voile), hand-sewing gives you more control and looks neater.

Dealing with side seams and zippers

If the skirt has a side zipper, you don't need to do anything special. The zipper stays in place, and you hem right up to it. Just be careful not to catch the zipper tape in your needle when you're sewing the hem.

If the skirt has side seams that run all the way down, the hem will cross those seams. This is fine—just sew through the seam allowance like you would through regular fabric. The seam actually helps anchor the hem and makes it stronger.

If the skirt is too tight to slip over your hips even as shorts, you'll need to open one side seam temporarily. Use a seam ripper to carefully cut the thread holding the side seam together from the waistband down to about 6 inches below where your new hem will be. After you've hemmed the shorts, sew that seam back up by hand or machine. This adds time but is sometimes necessary on fitted skirts.

Pressing and finishing touches

After you've sewn the hem, press it flat with an iron on medium heat. This sets the stitches and makes the hem look crisp and professional. If you used a machine stitch, press from the inside of the shorts. If you used a slip stitch, press from the outside.

Try the shorts on one more time. Check that the hem is even all the way around, that the length is what you wanted, and that the stitches are find. If you see any loose threads, trim them with scissors. If a stitch has come undone, go back and sew it.

When a skirt doesn't work for this project

Some skirts are harder to convert than others. A pencil skirt with a tight fit may be too narrow in the leg once you cut it—the shorts will be uncomfortably snug. A heavily pleated skirt will have thick, bulky folds at the hem that look awkward. A skirt with a long train or asymmetrical hem won't convert evenly.

A-line skirts, straight skirts, and wrap skirts are the easiest to convert. Maxi skirts give you the most fabric to work with. Midi skirts work fine if you're happy with knee-length or slightly shorter shorts. If you're unsure whether your skirt will work, lay it flat, imagine a horizontal line across it at your desired shorts length, and picture what the result would look like. If it seems reasonable, it probably is.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use a double-fold hem, or can I use a different finish?

A double-fold hem is the most common and durable, but you can also use a single-fold hem (fold once, stitch, and finish the raw edge with pinking shears or a zigzag stitch) if you prefer. A single-fold hem is faster but less neat. A bias tape finish—wrapping the raw edge in pre-made bias tape—also works and looks professional, though it takes more time.

What if I cut the shorts too short?

You cannot add fabric back once you've cut it off. If the shorts are only slightly too short, you might be able to wear them as-is. If they're much too short, the skirt is no longer usable for this project. This is why measuring and marking carefully before cutting matters so much.

Can I convert a skirt with a lining into shorts?

Yes. Cut the lining about 0.5 inches shorter than the outer fabric so it doesn't show below the hem. Hem the outer fabric and lining separately, or fold them together and hem them as one unit. Hemming them together is faster but can look bulky if the lining is thick.

How do I know if my shorts will fit after I cut them?

Try the skirt on before you cut if it's loose enough to slip over your hips. If it fits as a skirt, it will fit as shorts. If the skirt is too tight to pull on, you'll need to open a side seam before cutting, which adds time but ensures the shorts will fit.

What thread color should I use for the hem?

Use thread that matches the fabric color as closely as possible. If the fabric is a solid color, a thread match is straightforward. If the fabric is patterned, match the dominant color or use a neutral gray or tan that blends in. The thread should be the same weight as the original fabric—all-purpose thread works for most skirts.