A slit is a vertical opening in a skirt seam, finished with folded fabric edges so the opening lies flat and won't fray
A skirt slit is an opening cut into a seam — usually at the back or side — that lets you move freely without splitting the fabric. The slit itself is just a gap, but finishing it means folding the raw edges inward and stitching them down so they stay put and look neat. The most common method is a faced slit, where you fold the fabric on both sides of the opening and stitch it closed, leaving a small opening for movement.
You can add a slit to a skirt you already own, or plan for one when you cut out a new skirt. The process takes about 30 minutes once you have marked where the slit will go. You will need thread that matches your skirt, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a ruler or measuring tape.
Key Takeaways
- Mark your slit opening with a ruler and chalk or fabric pen before you cut, measuring from the hem upward to decide how long it will be.
- Cut straight up the seam line, then fold the raw edges inward on both sides and pin them flat before stitching.
- Stitch close to the fold on both sides of the opening, backstitching at the top and bottom to lock the seam.
- Press the finished slit with an iron so the folds stay crisp and the opening lies flat against the skirt.
- A slit at the back seam is easiest for beginners because you can work on a flat surface and the opening is hidden when you sit.
Decide where the slit will go and how long it should be
The most common placement is the center back seam, running straight up from the hem. A back slit is easiest to work with because the skirt lies flat while you sew, and the opening stays hidden when you sit down. Side seams work too, though they are more visible. Avoid placing a slit on a curved seam or anywhere the fabric is already stressed.
Measure the length from the hem upward. A typical slit runs 6 to 10 inches, though you can go longer if you want more movement. Mark the top and bottom of the slit with a ruler and chalk or a fabric pen. Draw a straight line up the seam where you will cut. If you are working on a finished skirt, open the seam at that spot first by carefully cutting the stitches with a seam ripper.
Cut the opening and prepare the edges
Cut straight up the seam line between your two marks. Use sharp scissors and cut only the seam allowance, not the main fabric of the skirt itself. Stop exactly at your top mark — do not cut past it. If you are working on an open seam, the fabric is already separated. If you cut into a closed seam, you now have an opening.
On each side of the opening, you will have a raw edge. Fold that edge inward about half an inch and press it flat with an iron. The fold should run parallel to the slit opening. Pin the fold in place so it does not shift while you stitch. Repeat on the other side. You now have two neat folds, one on each side of the opening, and the raw edges are hidden inside the folds.
Stitch the folds down on both sides
Thread your needle or set up your sewing machine with thread that matches your skirt. Starting at the bottom of the slit, stitch close to the fold — about an eighth of an inch from the edge. Sew straight up the fold, keeping your stitches parallel to the opening. When you reach the top, backstitch two or three times to lock the seam and prevent it from coming loose.
Move to the other side of the opening and repeat. Stitch from bottom to top, staying close to the fold, and backstitch at the top. Remove the pins as you go. Your stitches should be small and even — by hand, aim for stitches about an eighth of an inch long. By machine, use a standard stitch length (around 2.5 on most machines).
Reinforce the top of the slit with a bar tack
The top of the slit is the point where stress is highest when you move. A bar tack — a short line of stitches sewn back and forth — keeps the opening from tearing upward. Position your needle at the very top of the slit, right where the two folds meet. Stitch back and forth across the top about four or five times, covering roughly a quarter inch of fabric.
If you are sewing by hand, make small, tight stitches and go over the same spot multiple times. If you are using a machine, you can use the bar tack stitch if your machine has one, or straightforward stitch back and forth manually. Lock the thread with a backstitch when you are done.
Press the finished slit and check for loose threads
Lay the skirt flat and press the entire slit area with an iron on a medium heat setting. Press from the inside first, then from the outside, to make sure the folds stay crisp and the opening lies flat. The slit should now look like a neat vertical seam with no raw edges showing.
Trim any loose threads with scissors. If you see any gaps where the folds did not close completely, you can add a few extra stitches by hand to close them. Once the slit is pressed and trimmed, it is finished and ready to wear.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Cutting too far past your top mark will weaken the seam at the top of the slit. Always stop exactly where you marked. Folding the edges too wide (more than half an inch) makes the finished slit bulky and visible from the outside. Keep folds narrow and even on both sides.
Stitching too far from the fold leaves raw edges showing inside the slit. Stitch close to the fold — an eighth of an inch or less. Skipping the bar tack at the top is a common shortcut that leads to the slit tearing open during wear. Always reinforce the top, even if it takes an extra two minutes. Pressing the finished slit is not optional — without it, the folds will not stay flat and the opening will look unfinished.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add a slit to a skirt I already own?
Yes. Open the seam at the spot where you want the slit by carefully cutting the stitches with a seam ripper. Then follow the same steps: mark the length, fold the edges, and stitch them down. This works best on skirts with a center back seam or a side seam that is straightforward to access.
What if I cut the slit too short?
You can extend it by opening the seam a bit further up and repeating the folding and stitching process. Mark a new top point, cut up to it, fold, and stitch. The bar tack at the original top will hold, and you will add a new one at the new top.
Do I need a sewing machine or can I sew by hand?
You can sew entirely by hand using a needle and thread. Hand stitching takes longer — roughly 45 minutes instead of 20 — but the result is just as strong. Use a backstitch for durability and keep your stitches small and even.
What thread color should I use?
Match your thread to the skirt fabric as closely as possible. If your skirt is a solid color, use thread in that same color. If the skirt is patterned, choose a thread that matches the dominant color. Mismatched thread will be visible along the slit edges.
How do I keep the slit from fraying over time?
Folding and stitching the edges seals them so they cannot fray. The bar tack at the top prevents the opening from tearing upward. If you want extra durability, you can explore a thin line of fray check (a clear liquid sealant) along the inside edges before folding, though this is optional for most skirts.