The Basic Steps for Installing a Zipper in a Skirt

A zipper in a skirt goes into a seam, usually at the center back or center front. You sew the skirt pieces together first, leaving a gap where the zipper will sit. Then you attach the zipper tape to the seam allowances on either side of that gap, and finally you close the gap with a zipper foot on your machine. The whole process takes about 30 to 45 minutes once you have cut and prepared your fabric.

The most common method is the centered zipper, where the zipper sits hidden between two folded seam allowances. This is the cleanest look and works for most skirts. A lapped zipper, where one seam allowance folds over the zipper teeth, is faster but shows a line of stitching on the outside. For a first skirt, centered is easier to get right because small mistakes hide better.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your skirt pattern with a seam allowance at the zipper opening, then sew the rest of the seams before you install the zipper.
  • Pin the zipper tape to the seam allowances with the zipper pull facing the seam, then stitch it down with a zipper foot set to the side of the teeth.
  • A centered zipper hides the teeth completely; a lapped zipper shows one line of stitching but is faster to sew.
  • Test the zipper pull before you finish the skirt waistband, because replacing a zipper after the waistband is sewn is much harder.

Preparing Your Skirt Pieces and Seams

Before you touch the zipper, finish sewing all the other seams in your skirt. Sew the side seams, the darts if your pattern has them, and any other shaping. Leave only the center back seam (or center front, depending on your pattern) open from the waistline down to where the zipper will end—usually 6 to 8 inches, though your pattern will specify the length.

Press the seam allowances open along the entire opening, including the part where the zipper will go. Use a pressing ham or a rolled towel under the seam to avoid pressing a crease into the main fabric. The seam allowances need to lie flat and smooth, or the zipper will pucker when you stitch it.

Measure the zipper length against your opening. The zipper should be 1 to 2 inches longer than the opening so the pull has room to move past the end. If your opening is 7 inches, use a 9-inch zipper. You can trim a longer zipper later if needed, but you cannot lengthen one.

Pinning and Basting the Zipper for a Centered Installation

For a centered zipper, the teeth sit exactly on the seam line, and the seam allowances fold over on both sides. Start by placing the zipper face-down on one seam allowance, with the zipper teeth aligned to the fold of the seam allowance. The zipper pull should face toward the open seam (not toward the fabric edge). Pin along the length of the zipper tape, about 1/4 inch from the teeth.

Hand-baste this side with long, loose stitches using thread that matches the zipper tape. Basting holds the zipper in place while you machine-stitch and lets you remove it without damaging the fabric. Stitch about 1/8 inch from the zipper teeth, staying on the tape itself. Use a regular presser foot for basting, not the zipper foot yet.

Flip the skirt over and fold the other seam allowance over the zipper teeth so it mirrors the first side. Pin and baste this side the same way. Now the zipper is sandwiched between the two seam allowances, and you should see only the zipper pull sticking out from the seam.

Machine-Stitching the Zipper with a Zipper Foot

Switch to a zipper foot, which is narrower than a regular presser foot and lets you stitch very close to the zipper teeth without hitting them. Most machines come with a zipper foot, or you can buy one for $5 to $15 that fits your machine model. Attach it to your machine and test the position: the needle should be able to move to the left and right of the foot so you can stitch on both sides of the zipper.

Stitch the first side of the zipper with the zipper foot positioned to the left of the needle. Start at the waistline and stitch down to about 1 inch below the zipper pull. Backstitch to lock the thread. Remove the basting stitches from this side with a seam ripper or small scissors.

Flip the skirt and stitch the second side the same way, with the zipper foot now positioned to the right of the needle so you can stitch close to the teeth. Stitch from the waistline down, stopping about 1 inch below the pull. Backstitch and remove the basting stitches. The zipper is now permanently attached.

Closing the Gap Below the Zipper

The opening below the zipper still needs to be sewn shut. Switch back to your regular presser foot. Fold the seam allowances together at the bottom of the zipper opening, just as they are folded along the zipper itself. Pin across the opening and stitch with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, backstitching at both ends.

Press this seam open. The zipper opening is now complete, and the seam allowances are enclosed on all sides. Test the zipper pull to make sure it moves smoothly from top to bottom without catching. If it catches, a thread or bit of fabric is pinched in the teeth—use a seam ripper to gently free it.

Testing and Finishing Before the Waistband

Open and close the zipper at least five times before you attach the waistband. Check that the pull moves smoothly, that the teeth align properly, and that no fabric is caught. If the zipper jams or pulls to one side, fix it now. Once the waistband is sewn on, replacing the zipper is a major job that requires removing the entire waistband.

If the zipper is stiff or sticky, rub the teeth lightly with a graphite pencil or a bar of soap. Do not use oil or silicone spray, which can stain fabric. A little graphite or soap usually frees up a new zipper that has not been used yet.

Once the zipper works smoothly, you can attach the waistband, add elastic or a drawstring if your pattern calls for it, and finish the hem. The zipper is now part of the skirt and will last as long as the fabric around it.

Lapped Zipper as a Faster Alternative

A lapped zipper is quicker because you do not fold both seam allowances over the teeth. Instead, one seam allowance stays flat and covers the zipper tape completely, while the other folds under and is stitched to the zipper tape from the inside. The result shows one line of stitching on the outside, which some people prefer as a design detail.

To sew a lapped zipper, baste the zipper face-down to the right seam allowance (the one that will be on top). Stitch close to the teeth with a zipper foot. Then fold the left seam allowance under and pin it over the zipper tape. Stitch this side from the inside, close to the fold. The top side shows only one line of stitching, and the zipper is hidden underneath.

Lapped zippers are common in jeans and casual skirts. They are less formal than centered zippers but just as durable. Choose whichever method matches your pattern or your preference for how the finished seam should look.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size zipper do I need for my skirt?

Measure the opening where the zipper will go, then buy a zipper 1 to 2 inches longer. If your opening is 7 inches, buy a 9-inch zipper. The extra length gives the pull room to move past the end without hitting the waistband or the hem.

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

A regular foot is too wide and will hit the zipper teeth or pull, making it hard to stitch close enough. A zipper foot costs $5 to $15 and is worth buying. It is also useful for piping, cording, and other narrow seams.

What if the zipper puckers or pulls to one side?

Puckering usually means the seam allowances were not pressed flat before you pinned the zipper, or you stitched too close to the teeth and caught fabric. Pulling to one side means one side was stitched tighter than the other. Both can be fixed by removing the stitches and re-basting more carefully.

Do I have to use a centered zipper or can I use a lapped one?

Either works. Centered zippers hide the teeth completely and look more formal. Lapped zippers show one line of stitching and are faster. Your pattern may specify one, but if it does not, choose based on the look you want.

How do I remove and replace a zipper if it breaks?

Use a seam ripper to cut and remove all the stitches holding the zipper tape. Pull the tape away carefully. Sew a new zipper in the same way you sewed the first one. If the waistband is already attached, you will need to remove it first, which is why testing the zipper before finishing the waistband matters.