Machine blind stitch uses a special presser foot and a zigzag needle to hide thread inside the fold of fabric
A blind stitch on a sewing machine works differently from hand blind stitching. The machine version uses a narrow zigzag motion where the needle mostly travels inside the fold of your fabric, then catches a thread from the main piece every few stitches. The result looks nearly invisible from the outside. Most modern machines have a blind stitch setting built in, though the foot and needle type matter more than the machine model.
The key is that you fold your fabric so the machine can work along the fold line. The needle rides inside the fold, then darts out to grab a thread from the body of the garment. If your machine has a blind stitch setting, you will see it listed on the stitch dial or screen — it often looks like a small zigzag with a vertical line through it.
This method works best on hems, seams you want to close from the inside, and edges where you do not want visible stitching. It is faster than hand sewing and holds more securely than a whip stitch done by hand.
Key Takeaways
- You need a blind stitch presser foot (also called a blind hem foot) and a size 70 or 80 needle to sew a machine blind stitch.
- Fold your fabric so the crease faces the presser foot, with the main body of the garment to the right of the fold.
- Set your machine to blind stitch mode, adjust the width to 1.5 to 2.0, and test on scrap fabric first.
- The needle should mostly ride inside the fold and catch only one or two threads from the garment body with each zigzag.
- Thread tension and stitch width are the two settings that most often cause visible stitches or puckering.
What presser foot and needle you need
The blind stitch presser foot has a metal guide or blade down the center. This guide rides along the fold of your fabric and keeps the needle positioned correctly. Without this foot, the needle will not catch the fabric at the right angle. Most machines come with one, but if yours did not, you can order a replacement from the machine manufacturer by model number — it usually costs between $15 and $30.
Use a size 70 or 80 universal needle or a ballpoint needle if you are sewing knit fabric. A needle that is too large will leave visible holes; one that is too small may skip stitches or break. Change your needle before you start, even if the machine has a needle in it already. A needle that has sewn even a small project can be slightly bent and cause the stitch to miss.
How to fold and position your fabric
Fold the edge of your fabric so the crease is sharp and even. The fold should be on the left side of the presser foot, with the main body of the garment extending to the right. The blind stitch foot's guide rides along this fold. If you are hemming a pant leg or sleeve, fold the hem up to the length you want, press it with an iron, and then fold it again so the raw edge is hidden inside — this creates the crease the foot will follow.
Position the fold so it sits just inside the guide on the blind stitch foot. The guide should touch the fold lightly, not press hard against it. If the fold is too far to the left or right, the needle will either miss the garment body or stitch too far into it, making the stitches visible. Most guides have a small notch or groove; align the fold with that notch.
Pin the folded fabric in place if it is long, but remove pins as you approach them — do not sew over them. For short seams like armholes, you may not need pins at all.
Setting your machine and testing on scrap
Select the blind stitch setting on your machine. On machines with a dial, it is usually marked with a symbol that looks like a zigzag with a line through it. On machines with a screen, scroll to the blind stitch or blind hem option. Set the stitch width to 1.5 to 2.0 — this controls how far the needle swings out to catch the garment. Start at 1.5 and increase only if the stitch is not catching enough fabric.
Set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5. This is the distance the machine moves forward between each catch. A longer length means fewer stitches per inch, which is fine for blind stitching because the stitches are mostly hidden. Keep tension at the default setting for now — you will adjust it only if the thread shows or the fabric puckers.
Cut a piece of scrap fabric and fold it the same way you folded your garment. Sew a few inches on the scrap and check the result. The needle should catch only one or two threads from the garment body with each zigzag. If you see a line of thread on the outside, the width is too wide or the fold is positioned wrong. If the needle is not catching any fabric, the width is too narrow.
Sewing the blind stitch and troubleshooting
Start sewing slowly. The blind stitch foot needs to ride smoothly along the fold, and rushing can throw it off. Use the handwheel to sew the first few stitches by hand if you are nervous — this helps you see exactly what the needle is doing. Once you are confident the stitch is correct, sew at a medium speed. Most machines handle blind stitching at half speed without problems.
If the thread shows on the outside of the garment, the fold is too far to the right or the stitch width is too wide. Stop, reposition the fold closer to the guide, and test again. If the fabric puckers, loosen the top thread tension by one or two numbers and test on scrap. If the needle skips stitches, check that the needle is inserted correctly and that you are using the right size.
When you reach the end of the seam, sew off the edge slightly and then reverse to lock the thread. Trim the thread tails close to the fabric. If you are hemming a garment, press the hem with an iron after sewing to set the stitch and remove any wrinkles from the fold.
When blind stitch works best and when to use alternatives
Machine blind stitch is ideal for hemming pants, skirts, and sleeves where you want an invisible finish on the inside. It also works well for closing seams on pillows, bags, and stuffed items when you have sewn three sides and need to close the fourth. The stitch is strong enough for everyday wear and holds better than a hand whip stitch.
Blind stitch does not work well on very stretchy fabrics like swimsuit material or on fabrics with a nap like velvet, because the fold can shift as you sew. For those materials, a hand blind stitch or a ladder stitch (also called a mattress stitch) is more reliable. Blind stitch also requires a presser foot, so if your machine does not have one and you cannot order a replacement, a hand stitch is your only option.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular presser foot for blind stitching?
No. A regular foot does not have the guide that keeps the fold in the correct position. The needle will not catch the fabric at the right angle, and the stitches will be visible or uneven. You must use a blind stitch presser foot.
What if my machine does not have a blind stitch setting?
Some older machines do not have a dedicated blind stitch. You can try a narrow zigzag stitch (width 1.0 to 1.5, length 2.0) with the blind stitch foot, though the result may not be as invisible. If that does not work, hand sewing is the most reliable method.
Why does my blind stitch show on the outside?
The fold is positioned too far to the right, or the stitch width is too wide. Reposition the fold so it sits closer to the guide, or reduce the width to 1.0 and test on scrap. The needle should catch only one or two threads from the garment body.
How do I know if my needle is inserted correctly?
Most machines have a small diagram on the needle clamp showing which way the needle faces. Insert it so the flat side faces the correct direction, push it all the way up into the clamp, and tighten the screw firmly. A needle that is even slightly loose or backward will skip stitches.
Can I blind stitch curved seams like armholes?
Yes, but you need to go slowly and guide the fold carefully around the curve. The blind stitch foot works on curves, but the guide can slip if you push or pull the fabric. Let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace and use your hands only to guide, not to pull.