Sewing piping to a pillow requires pinning it to the seam allowance before you stitch the cover closed, so the cord sits exactly on the finished edge

Piping goes between the two layers of fabric at the edge of the pillow, so you attach it before you sew the front and back together. The process is straightforward: pin the piping around the perimeter of one fabric piece (usually the front), then sew the front and back together with the piping sandwiched between them. The stitching line should run as close as possible to the cord itself, so the piping sits right on the edge when you turn the pillow right-side out.

The key is keeping the piping straight and evenly spaced as you pin, and using a piping foot (also called a cording foot) on your machine so you can stitch close to the cord without hitting it. If you do not have a piping foot, a zipper foot works as a substitute, though it is less precise.

Key Takeaways

  • Pin the piping to the seam allowance of your pillow front before sewing the front and back together, with the cord facing outward and the raw edges aligned with the fabric edges.
  • Use a piping foot or zipper foot on your machine to stitch as close as possible to the cord without hitting it, which keeps the piping from shifting during assembly.
  • Clip the piping seam allowance at corners so it turns smoothly without bunching or puckering.
  • Sew the front and back together with a standard presser foot, stitching just inside the line where you attached the piping so the piping sits on the finished edge.
  • Leave a 4- to 6-inch opening for turning and stuffing before you close the final seam by hand.

Prepare your fabric and piping before you pin

Cut your pillow front and back to the same size, adding a half-inch seam allowance on all sides. Measure the perimeter of your pillow front and cut piping to that length, then add 2 extra inches for overlap at the seam where the ends meet. If your piping is not pre-made, you will need to make it yourself by wrapping bias tape around cord, but pre-made piping from a fabric store is faster and more consistent.

Press your fabric pieces flat with an iron so they are smooth and free of wrinkles. This makes it easier to pin the piping straight and keeps your stitching line even. If your piping is slightly wrinkled from storage, you can press it gently on a low heat setting, but avoid pressing directly on the cord itself.

Pin the piping around the perimeter of the pillow front

Lay your pillow front on a flat surface with the right side facing up. Starting at the center of one edge (not at a corner), pin the piping to the seam allowance with the cord facing outward and the raw edges of the piping aligned with the raw edges of the fabric. Use pins every 2 to 3 inches, and keep the piping taut but not stretched as you pin.

When you reach a corner, stop about half an inch before the corner point. Clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle so it can fold around the corner without bunching. Fold the piping around the corner and continue pinning on the next side. Repeat this clipping and folding at each corner.

When you reach the starting point, overlap the two ends of the piping by about an inch. Trim the excess so the ends meet neatly, then pin both ends in place. Some sewers prefer to unpick the bias tape at one end, wrap the cord inside the other end, and stitch them together for an invisible seam, but overlapping is simpler and works well on most pillows.

Stitch the piping to the pillow front with a piping foot

Attach a piping foot to your sewing machine. This foot has a groove on the underside that rides along the cord, keeping it centered and allowing you to stitch as close as possible without hitting the cord itself. If you do not have a piping foot, a zipper foot will work, though you will need to position it manually and may not get quite as close to the cord.

Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric or piping, depending on which you want to be more visible. Starting at the center of an edge (where you started pinning), stitch along the piping, following the groove of the foot. Sew slowly and remove pins as you approach them. At corners, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric to align with the next edge before continuing.

Stitch all the way around the pillow front until you reach the starting point. Backstitch at the beginning and end to find the thread. Remove all pins and press the stitched edge lightly with an iron to set the seam.

Sew the front and back together, leaving an opening for turning

Place the pillow front and back together with right sides facing each other, so the piping is sandwiched between them. Pin around all four sides, then switch to a standard presser foot on your machine. Stitch around the perimeter, staying just inside the line where you stitched the piping to the front. This keeps the piping from shifting and ensures it sits right on the finished edge.

Leave a 4- to 6-inch opening on one side for turning the pillow right-side out and inserting stuffing. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam segment to prevent unraveling. Trim the seam allowance at the corners diagonally, cutting close to the stitching line without cutting through the thread itself. This reduces bulk and helps the corners turn out crisp and square.

Turn the pillow right-side out and finish the opening

Reach through the opening and gently pull the pillow right-side out, working the corners out carefully with your fingers or a point turner. Press the pillow flat with an iron, paying special attention to the edges so the piping sits evenly all the way around. The piping should now frame the edge of the pillow.

Stuff the pillow with fiberfill or your preferred filling material until it reaches the firmness you want. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and pin them closed. Using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), sew the opening closed by hand with thread that matches your fabric. The ladder stitch is nearly invisible and creates a seamless finish.

Troubleshooting common piping problems

If the piping bunches or puckers at the corners, you did not clip the seam allowance deeply enough. Unpick that section, clip further into the seam allowance, and re-stitch. If the piping shifts during stitching, you are likely sewing too far from the cord or not using a piping foot. Slow down, use the groove of the piping foot as your guide, and keep your hands steady as you feed the fabric.

If the piping is visible on the back of the pillow after you sew the front and back together, you stitched too far away from the piping when you attached the front and back. The second seam should run just inside the first one. If this happens on a finished pillow, it is usually not noticeable once the pillow is stuffed and placed on a chair or bed, but you can unpick and re-stitch if it bothers you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a piping foot?

Yes, a zipper foot works as a substitute and lets you stitch close to the cord, though you will need to adjust its position manually for each side of the pillow. A piping foot is easier because the groove keeps the cord centered automatically, but if you do not have one, a zipper foot will produce good results.

What if my piping ends do not meet neatly?

Overlapping the ends by an inch is the simplest approach and works well on most pillows because the overlap sits on a seam and is not visible from the front. If you want an invisible seam, unpick the bias tape at one end, insert the cord from the other end inside the tape, and stitch the tape closed by hand before pinning the piping to the pillow.

How do I keep piping from shifting while I sew?

Pin every 2 to 3 inches and remove pins as you stitch rather than sewing over them. Use a piping foot so the cord stays centered under the needle. Sew slowly and keep gentle, even pressure on the fabric with your hands. If piping shifts despite these steps, unpick that section and re-pin before re-stitching.

Do I need to pre-wash piping before I use it?

Pre-made piping is usually pre-shrunk, but check the package label. If you made your own piping from bias tape and cord, wash and dry both before wrapping them together. This prevents the piping from shrinking after the pillow is finished and distorting the shape.

What thread color should I use to stitch the piping?

Use thread that matches your pillow fabric if you want the stitching to blend in, or match the piping if you want the stitching line to be part of the design. The stitching line will be visible on the front of the pillow, so choose based on the look you prefer.