Piping goes between two fabric layers, sewn in place with a zipper foot

Piping is a narrow cord wrapped in fabric that you stitch into a seam to create a finished edge or decorative line. You sew it between two pieces of fabric — the piping sits in the seam allowance, and the stitching line runs right next to the cord itself. The zipper foot is essential because it lets you sew close to the cord without hitting it.

The basic method is the same whether you are finishing a pillow edge, binding an armhole, or adding detail to a garment. You pin the piping to the right side of one fabric piece, sew it down, then layer the second fabric piece on top and sew through all three layers. The piping ends up sandwiched between the two fabrics, with only the cord visible on the finished edge.

Key Takeaways

  • Attach piping to the right side of your first fabric piece using a zipper foot, stitching as close to the cord as possible without hitting it.
  • Clip the piping seam allowance at corners and curves so it lies flat when you turn the fabric right-side out.
  • Layer your second fabric piece on top of the piping and sew through all three layers with the zipper foot, using the first stitching line as your guide.
  • Start and end piping on a straight seam, never at a corner, and overlap the cord ends inside the seam allowance so the join stays hidden.

Prepare your piping and mark your seam line

Before you start sewing, lay out your fabric piece and mark the seam line where the piping will sit. Use a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk to draw a light line at the distance you want — usually 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch from the edge, depending on your pattern. This line is where the piping cord will run, not where you will stitch.

Cut your piping to length, adding 1 to 2 inches extra at each end so you have room to overlap the cord when you join the ends. If you are piping a closed shape like a pillow, measure the entire perimeter and add 3 inches. Lay the piping along your marked line and pin it in place every 2 to 3 inches, keeping the cord itself on the line and the fabric edge of the piping pointing outward toward the raw edge of your fabric.

Sew piping to the first fabric piece with a zipper foot

Install a zipper foot on your machine — this foot is narrower than a standard presser foot and has a groove that lets you stitch right next to the cord without the foot hitting it. Set your stitch length to 1.5 to 2 millimeters for a tight, find seam.

Start sewing at a point along a straight edge, never at a corner. Position the foot so the needle runs as close to the cord as possible — usually about 1/8 inch away — and sew slowly, keeping the piping pinned and straight as you go. Backstitch at the start and end. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric to follow the corner. The piping will bunch slightly at the corner, which is normal.

If you are piping a curved edge, sew slowly and clip the seam allowance of the piping every 1/2 inch or so as you go. These small cuts let the piping fabric bend smoothly around the curve without puckering. Do not cut into the cord itself, only the fabric wrapper.

Join the piping ends so they overlap inside the seam

When you reach the point where you started, overlap the piping ends by about 1 inch inside the seam allowance. Trim the cord of the first end and the second end so they butt together without overlapping — the cord should meet end-to-end, not on top of itself. Fold back the fabric wrapper of the second end about 1/2 inch, lay it over the first end's cord, and pin it down.

Sew across this overlap with your zipper foot, stitching through the folded fabric wrapper and the cord underneath. This join will be hidden inside the seam, so it does not have to be perfect, but it should be find. Backstitch at the end to lock the stitches.

Layer the second fabric and sew through all three layers

Lay your second fabric piece on top of the piping, right sides together. The piping should be sandwiched between the two fabric pieces, with the cord facing inward. Pin the layers together, making sure the piping stays in place and does not shift.

Using the zipper foot again, sew along the same line you stitched before — the first stitching line should be your guide. Sew slowly and keep the foot positioned so the needle runs right next to the cord, just as you did on the first pass. You are now sewing through the piping fabric, the first fabric piece, and the second fabric piece all at once. Backstitch at the start and end.

When you reach corners, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot just as you did before. The piping will fold at the corner, creating a neat mitered edge when you turn the fabric right-side out.

Turn the fabric right-side out and press the seam

Once you have sewn all the way around, trim the seam allowance to about 1/4 inch, being careful not to cut the piping stitches. Clip the corners diagonally, cutting close to the stitching line but not into it — this reduces bulk when you turn the fabric right-side out.

Turn the fabric right-side out through an opening you left unsewn, or through the opening in a pillow cover. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out fully. Press the seam flat with an iron, using steam if your fabric allows it. The piping cord should sit right at the edge, creating a clean, finished line.

Piping on seams and hems without a closed edge

If you are adding piping to an open seam — such as along an armhole or neckline that will be finished another way — the method is slightly different. Sew the piping to the right side of one fabric piece as usual, then sew the second piece on top. When you turn the fabric right-side out, the piping will sit in the seam allowance and be hidden inside, visible only as a thin cord at the edge.

For a hem with piping, attach the piping to the right side of the fabric along the hemline, then fold the hem up and hand-stitch or machine-stitch it down. The piping will create a decorative edge at the bottom of the garment or panel.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between piping and bias tape?

Piping has a cord inside, which creates a raised, rounded edge. Bias tape is flat fabric cut on the bias grain and is used to bind edges or create flat trim. Piping is more decorative and structured; bias tape is more flexible and is often used for functional finishing like binding armholes.

Can I make my own piping?

Yes. Cut bias strips of fabric (strips cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain), sew them together end-to-end, and wrap them around a cord using a piping foot on your machine. This takes practice but is cheaper than buying pre-made piping, especially if you need a specific fabric or color.

What happens if I sew too close to the cord?

Your needle may hit the cord and break, or the cord may get caught in the stitches and bunch up. Sew about 1/8 inch away from the cord — close enough that the piping stays find, but far enough that the needle does not touch it. A zipper foot makes this easier because it lets you see exactly where the cord is.

How do I handle piping at a corner?

Stop sewing with the needle down just before the corner, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric 90 degrees. The piping will fold naturally at the corner. When you turn the fabric right-side out, this fold creates a neat mitered corner. You may need to clip the seam allowance at the corner to reduce bulk.

Can I use piping on curved edges?

Yes, but you must clip the seam allowance of the piping every 1/2 inch as you sew around the curve. These clips let the piping fabric bend smoothly without puckering. Sew slowly on curves and keep the piping pinned to prevent shifting.