What Piping Is and Why You Sew It
Piping is a narrow strip of fabric folded around a cord and sewn into a seam to create a finished edge or decorative border. You see it on pillows, cushions, necklines, and armholes. It serves two purposes: it reinforces a seam so it holds up to wear, and it gives a garment or home décor project a polished, professional look.
Piping comes in two forms. You can buy pre-made piping with the cord already enclosed in fabric, which is faster but limited in color and fabric choices. Or you can make your own by wrapping fabric strips around cord, which takes more time but lets you match any project exactly. This guide covers both methods, starting with the easier pre-made route and moving to making your own.
Key Takeaways
- Pre-made piping is sewn into a seam using a piping foot on your machine, which keeps the cord centered and prevents puckering.
- Homemade piping requires bias-cut fabric strips wrapped around cord and pressed, then sewn the same way as pre-made piping.
- The piping foot is essential—a regular presser foot will crush the cord and create uneven seams.
- Piping is always sewn between two layers of fabric before those layers are joined, never on top of a finished seam.
- Corners and curves require clipping the seam allowance and careful handling to keep the piping from bunching.
Choosing and Preparing Your Piping
If you buy pre-made piping, check the fiber content and weight before purchasing. Cotton piping works well on cotton and linen fabrics; polyester piping is more durable on knits and stretchy materials. The cord inside should feel firm but not stiff. Measure your project's perimeter and add 2 inches for overlap at the seams.
For homemade piping, you will need bias-cut fabric strips (cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain), cord, and an iron. Bias strips stretch slightly, which is why they work around curves without puckering. Cut strips 1.5 to 2 inches wide, depending on your cord diameter. Sew strips end-to-end with a diagonal seam to create one long strip, then press the seams open. Wrap the strip around the cord with the cord centered, fold the raw edges to the back, and press. The finished piping should have a 1/4-inch seam allowance on the back.
Installing a Piping Foot on Your Machine
A piping foot (also called a cording foot) has a groove on the bottom that rides over the cord, keeping it centered and preventing the needle from hitting it. This foot is essential—a regular presser foot will flatten the cord and create an uneven seam.
Check your machine's manual to find the correct piping foot for your model. Most machines use a snap-on foot; align the foot with the presser bar and press down until it clicks. If your machine uses a screw-on foot, unscrew the old foot, align the new one, and screw it back in. Thread your machine and set the stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters—slightly shorter than normal seaming—to hold the piping securely.
Sewing Piping Into a Seam on Straight Edges
Piping always goes between two layers of fabric before you join them. Place your first fabric piece right-side up. Lay the piping along the edge where you want it, with the raw edges of the piping aligned with the raw edge of the fabric. The cord should face outward, away from the fabric. Pin every 2 inches, keeping pins perpendicular to the piping so you can remove them as you sew.
Attach the piping foot and position the needle so it runs just to the left of the cord (toward the seam allowance, not the cord itself). Sew slowly, using your fingers to guide the piping so it stays straight and the cord stays centered in the groove. Remove pins as you approach them. Sew the entire length, then backstitch at the end.
Now place your second fabric piece right-side down on top, sandwiching the piping between the two layers. The piping should be completely hidden between the layers. Pin around the perimeter, then use a regular presser foot to sew the seam, sewing just slightly to the left of your first stitching line. This second seam locks the piping in place. Press the seam open from the back.
Turning Corners and Navigating Curves
Corners require stopping and pivoting. Sew the piping to the first edge until you reach the corner, then stop with the needle down. Lift the presser foot and clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle, cutting close to (but not through) the cord. This allows the piping to fold without bunching. Pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing down the next edge.
For curves, clip the seam allowance of the piping every 1/2 inch along the curve, again cutting close to the cord without cutting through it. These clips let the piping bend smoothly. Sew slowly around the curve, guiding the piping so it lies flat. Convex curves (bulging outward) need fewer clips than concave curves (curving inward).
Joining Piping Ends at the Seam
When you reach the point where the piping started, you have two choices: overlap or butt the ends together. For overlapping, sew the piping around until you are 2 inches from the starting point. Trim the cord so the ends meet without overlapping, then fold one fabric end over the other and sew through both layers. This creates a smooth transition.
For butting, sew until the piping ends meet. Trim the cord so the ends just touch. Fold both fabric ends under and hand-stitch them closed with a ladder stitch, or machine-stitch them with a small zigzag. Butting looks neater on visible seams but takes more care to execute smoothly.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common error is sewing piping to only one layer of fabric, then trying to attach it to the second layer afterward. This creates a weak seam and visible stitching. Always sandwich the piping between the two layers before sewing the final seam.
Crushing the cord happens when you use a regular presser foot instead of a piping foot. The foot flattens the cord and the stitching becomes uneven. Invest in the correct foot for your machine—it costs $10 to $20 and will last for years.
Puckering occurs when you pull the fabric or piping while sewing, or when you skip clipping at corners and curves. Let the machine feed the fabric; guide it gently but do not pull. Always clip seam allowances at corners and curves before sewing the second seam.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular presser foot instead of a piping foot?
No. A regular foot will crush the cord and create an uneven, weak seam. The piping foot's groove protects the cord and keeps it centered under the needle. A piping foot is inexpensive and essential for this technique.
What stitch length should I use?
Set your stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. This is slightly shorter than a standard seam (which is usually 2.5 to 3.0 millimeters) and holds the piping securely without creating a stiff seam.
How do I keep piping from bunching at corners?
Clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle at each corner, cutting close to the cord but not through it. This allows the piping to fold without the fabric bunching up on the inside of the corner.
Can I sew piping on top of a finished seam?
No. Piping must be sewn between two layers of fabric before those layers are joined. Sewing it on top of a finished seam creates a weak attachment and looks unprofessional. Always insert piping before sewing the final seam.
What is the difference between homemade and pre-made piping?
Pre-made piping is faster and requires no preparation, but your color and fabric choices are limited. Homemade piping takes more time but lets you match any fabric exactly. Both are sewn the same way once they are ready to use.