The Basic Method for Attaching Piping

Piping is a cord wrapped in fabric that runs along the edge of a pillow, creating a finished, tailored look. To sew it on, you sandwich the piping between two pieces of fabric—the pillow front and back—and stitch through all three layers at once. The piping sits in the seam allowance, so the stitching line is hidden inside the finished pillow.

The process works the same whether you are making a pillow from scratch or adding piping to an existing one. The key is securing the piping to the front piece first, then attaching the back piece on top of it. A zipper foot or piping foot on your sewing machine makes this much easier because it lets you stitch close to the cord without hitting it.

Key Takeaways

  • Attach piping to the pillow front first by stitching it to the raw edges, then sew the back piece on top, trapping the piping in the seam.
  • Use a zipper foot or piping foot so you can stitch right next to the cord without the presser foot hitting it.
  • At corners, clip the piping seam allowance and fold it to turn the corner smoothly without bunching.
  • Where the two ends of piping meet, overlap them by about one inch and stitch through both layers to join them invisibly.
  • Leave a gap in the back seam so you can turn the pillow right-side out and stuff it before closing by hand.

Preparing Your Fabric and Piping

Cut your pillow front and back pieces to the same size, adding a half-inch seam allowance on all sides. Measure the perimeter of your pillow—if it is a 16-inch square, you need about 66 inches of piping (16 + 16 + 16 + 16 + 2 inches extra for overlap). Buy or make enough piping to go all the way around plus a few inches.

Press your fabric pieces flat so they have no wrinkles. Lay the pillow front on your work surface with the right side facing up. This is where you will attach the piping first.

Pinning Piping to the Pillow Front

Start at the middle of one side, not at a corner. Lay the piping along the raw edge of the pillow front with the cord facing outward and the fabric strip facing inward toward the pillow. The piping's seam allowance should sit on top of your pillow's seam allowance, aligned with the edge.

Pin the piping in place as you go around, keeping it flat and even. When you reach a corner, stop about half an inch before the corner point. Clip the seam allowance of the piping at a 45-degree angle, cutting toward the cord but not through it. This clip lets the piping fold at the corner without puckering. Fold the piping at the corner and pin it to the next side.

When you come back around to where you started, overlap the two ends of piping by about one inch. Pin both layers down. You will stitch through this overlap to join the ends invisibly.

Stitching Piping to the Front Piece

Install a zipper foot on your machine and thread it with thread that matches your piping fabric. Position the needle so it stitches right next to the cord, not through it. The zipper foot lets you move the presser foot to the left or right of the needle, so you can get close to the cord without the foot hitting it.

Start stitching at the middle of a side, not at a corner. Stitch slowly and keep the piping flat as you go. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and adjust the piping so it lies flat on the next side. Lower the foot and continue stitching.

When you reach the overlap, stitch through both layers of piping. This join will be hidden inside the seam, so it does not need to be perfect—just find. Stitch all the way around until you reach your starting point, then backstitch to lock the thread.

Attaching the Back Piece

Lay the pillow back on top of the front piece with right sides together. The piping now sits between the two fabric layers. Pin around all four sides, keeping the piping flat and even inside.

Using the same zipper foot, stitch around all four sides, stitching right next to the piping cord just as you did on the front. This second line of stitching locks the piping in place and joins the front and back pieces. Leave a 4-inch gap on one side so you can turn the pillow right-side out and stuff it later.

Backstitch at the beginning and end of each side to lock the thread. Stitch slowly at the corners to keep the piping smooth.

Finishing the Pillow

Trim the seam allowance to about a quarter inch all the way around, cutting close to your stitching line. Clip the corners diagonally, cutting away the excess fabric at each corner. This reduces bulk so the corners turn out crisp and sharp.

Turn the pillow right-side out through the gap you left in the back seam. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out fully. Press the pillow flat with an iron, paying special attention to the edges so the piping sits evenly.

Stuff the pillow with fiberfill or your choice of filling until it reaches the firmness you want. Fold the raw edges of the gap inward and pin them closed. Stitch the gap shut by hand using a ladder stitch, which is nearly invisible. Take small stitches and pull the thread snug every inch or so to close the gap completely.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

If the piping bunches at the corners, you did not clip the seam allowance deeply enough. Unpick that section, clip more, and re-stitch. If the piping twists or sits at an angle, you pinned it unevenly—unpick and repin, keeping the cord facing outward and the seam allowance flat.

If your stitching line is visible on the finished pillow, you stitched too far from the cord. The stitching should sit in the seam allowance, hidden between the piping and the pillow fabric. If you can see it, unpick and move the line closer to the cord.

If the piping ends do not join smoothly, the overlap may be too short or the stitching may have missed one layer. One inch of overlap is usually enough. Make sure both layers of piping are pinned flat before you stitch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

A regular foot will work, but it is harder to stitch close enough to the cord without hitting it. A zipper foot costs about five to ten dollars and makes the job much easier. If you do not have one, stitch as close to the cord as your regular foot allows, and accept that the stitching line may be slightly visible.

What if I run out of piping before I get all the way around?

Unpick the overlap and measure how much more you need. Make or buy additional piping and join it to the end you have by overlapping the seam allowances and stitching them together. Then continue pinning and stitching as usual.

Do I have to leave a gap to stuff the pillow, or can I stitch it completely closed?

You must leave a gap unless you plan to stuff the pillow before you sew the back on. If you stuff first, you can stitch all four sides closed, but the pillow will be harder to turn right-side out. Most sewers leave a 4-inch gap, stuff through it, and close it by hand.

How do I make piping if I do not want to buy it?

Cut bias strips of fabric about 1.5 inches wide, sew them end to end to make one long strip, and wrap it around a cord using a bias tape maker or by folding and pressing. This takes time but costs less than buying piping. Many fabric stores also sell pre-made piping by the yard.

Can I add piping to a pillow that is already stuffed?

No. Piping must be sewn into the seam before the pillow is stuffed. If you want to add piping to an existing pillow, you would have to unpick one side, remove the stuffing, sew the piping on, and reassemble it—which is more work than making a new pillow.