The Basic Steps to Sew a Ruffle

A ruffle is a strip of fabric gathered or pleated so it bunches up and creates a decorative, wavy edge. To sew one, you cut a strip of fabric roughly twice as long as the edge where you want it, gather that strip so it shrinks to the right length, then stitch it to your garment or project. The gathering is the key step—without it, you just have a flat strip.

The simplest method uses two parallel rows of loose stitching (called gathering stitches) to bunch the fabric, then you sew the gathered ruffle to your project with a straight stitch or zigzag. If you have a serger, you can use a rolled hem for a more finished look, but a regular sewing machine works just as well. Hand sewing is slower but gives you the most control, especially on delicate fabrics.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your ruffle strip about twice the length of the edge you are covering, and make it as wide as you want the finished ruffle to be, plus half an inch for seam allowance on each long edge.
  • Sew two parallel rows of long, loose stitches along the length of the strip, leaving long thread tails so you can pull them to gather the fabric.
  • Pull the bobbin threads to bunch the fabric until the ruffle matches the length of the edge where it will go, then find the threads by wrapping them around a pin.
  • Pin the gathered ruffle to your project with right sides together, then stitch it down using a straight stitch or zigzag, removing pins as you go.
  • Trim the seam allowance and finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent fraying.

Cutting and Preparing Your Ruffle Strip

Measure the edge where your ruffle will go—the neckline, armhole, hem, or wherever you are adding it. Multiply that measurement by 1.5 to 2, depending on how full and gathered you want the ruffle to look. A multiplier of 1.5 gives a subtle gather; 2 or more gives a very full, dramatic ruffle.

Cut your strip to that length and make it as wide as you want the finished ruffle to appear, plus one inch total (half an inch seam allowance on each long edge). For example, if you want a one-inch-wide ruffle, cut your strip two inches wide. Use a rotary cutter and ruler for straight edges, or mark your lines with a fabric pencil and cut with scissors.

If your strip needs to be longer than your fabric is wide, sew two or more pieces end-to-end with a straight seam, trim the seam allowance to a quarter inch, and press it open. This join will disappear into the gathered fabric.

Sewing the Gathering Stitches

Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length—usually 4 or 5 on most machines. This makes the threads easier to pull and less likely to break. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end; you need long thread tails to pull.

Sew the first row of gathering stitches about a quarter inch from one long edge of your strip, running the full length. Leave at least three inches of thread hanging at each end. Sew the second row about a quarter inch away from the first row, again leaving long thread tails.

If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch (in and out, in and out) with stitches about a quarter inch long. Two parallel rows work the same way as on a machine—just make sure your thread tails are long enough to grab and pull without snapping.

Gathering the Fabric

Hold one end of the ruffle strip and gently pull the bobbin threads (the threads on the underside of the stitching) from both rows at the same time. The fabric will bunch up toward you. Pull evenly so the gathers distribute across the whole length, not clumping in one spot.

Keep pulling until your ruffle is the same length as the edge where it will attach. Wrap the thread tails around a pin or tie them in a knot to hold the gathers in place. Do not cut the threads yet—you may need to adjust the gathers as you pin the ruffle to your project.

If the gathers look uneven, slide them gently along the threads to redistribute them. This takes a minute but makes the finished ruffle look more professional. Once you are happy with how it looks, you can trim the thread tails to an inch and leave them there—they will be hidden in the seam.

Attaching the Ruffle to Your Project

Place your project and the gathered ruffle with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin the ruffle to the edge, starting at one end and working your way around. Pin every inch or so, and adjust the gathers as you go so they sit evenly.

Sew the ruffle down using a straight stitch with a quarter-inch seam allowance, or a zigzag stitch if you want a more flexible seam. Sew slowly and remove pins just before the presser foot reaches them—never sew over a pin. If you are sewing by hand, use a backstitch and keep your stitches small and even, about an eighth inch long.

Once the ruffle is sewn, press the seam allowance toward the project (away from the ruffle) with an iron. This helps the ruffle sit flat and look finished.

Finishing the Seam and Raw Edges

Trim the seam allowance to about a quarter inch to reduce bulk. If your fabric frays easily, finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch on your machine, or use pinking shears to cut a zigzag edge. This prevents the seam from unraveling in the wash.

If you are making a garment that will be worn next to skin, consider binding the seam with bias tape or a narrow strip of fabric folded and stitched over the raw edge. This is more comfortable and looks more professional, though it takes extra time.

Press the finished seam one more time with an iron, pressing the ruffle away from the project. If the ruffle will show on the outside of your garment, press it so it hangs naturally and does not curl or fold under.

Ruffles on Curved Edges and Corners

Ruffles work on straight edges most easily, but you can add them to curves like necklines and armholes. The gathered fabric is forgiving and will ease around the curve. Pin more frequently on the curve—every half inch instead of every inch—so the ruffle sits smoothly without puckering.

At corners, stop sewing a quarter inch before the corner, leave the needle down, pivot your project, and continue sewing. This creates a neat corner without bunching. If the corner is very sharp, you may need to clip into the seam allowance of the ruffle (but not through the stitching) so it folds cleanly.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my gathering threads break while I am pulling?

Start over with a new pair of gathering stitches. If the threads keep breaking, your stitches may be too tight or your fabric too delicate. Try a longer stitch length (5 or 6 instead of 4) or use a thinner thread. Gather more slowly and gently, pulling a little at a time instead of yanking.

Can I make a ruffle without gathering stitches?

Yes, but it is harder. You can pleat the fabric by hand, folding it into even accordion-like folds and pinning them, then stitching them down. This takes longer and looks different—more structured and less soft. Gathering stitches are the easiest method for a traditional ruffle look.

How do I sew a ruffle on a curved neckline without puckering?

Pin very frequently—every half inch—and ease the ruffle gently around the curve as you sew. The gathered fabric is stretchy and forgiving. Sew slowly and stop often to check that the ruffle is sitting flat. If puckers appear, you can sometimes remove a few stitches, adjust the ruffle, and resew that section.

What fabric works best for ruffles?

Cotton, linen, and lightweight blends gather beautifully and hold their shape. Heavier fabrics like denim or canvas are harder to gather and create bulky seams. Stretchy fabrics like knit or spandex can work but are trickier to control. Start with cotton if you are new to sewing ruffles.

Do I need to hem the outer edge of the ruffle?

Not always. If your ruffle is on the inside of a garment (like a facing), the raw edge will be hidden. If it shows on the outside, a narrow zigzag or pinking shears finish is usually enough for casual projects. For a more polished look, fold the edge under a quarter inch and stitch it down, or bind it with bias tape.