The Basic Process for Attaching a Ruffle

Sewing a ruffle onto a skirt means gathering fabric into tight, even folds and stitching it to the hem or waistband. The ruffle itself is a long strip of fabric that you gather first, then pin and sew to your skirt in a straight line. Most ruffles are sewn to the bottom edge of the skirt, though they can also go around the waist or down the side seams.

The work breaks into three stages: preparing the ruffle strip, gathering it to the right length, and stitching it permanently to the skirt. Each stage takes about 15 to 30 minutes depending on how wide your ruffle is and how much fabric you are working with. You will need a sewing machine, thread that matches your fabric, pins, scissors, and a measuring tape.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your ruffle strip twice as long as the edge you are attaching it to, and hem the short ends and one long edge before gathering.
  • Use two rows of long machine stitches to gather the ruffle, then pull the bobbin threads to bunch the fabric evenly.
  • Pin the gathered ruffle to your skirt with the raw edge facing inward, then sew it down with a straight stitch or narrow zigzag.
  • Press the seam flat after sewing to set the stitches and make the ruffle lie smoothly against the skirt.

Cutting and Preparing Your Ruffle Strip

Start by measuring the edge of your skirt where the ruffle will go. If you are adding it to the hem, measure all the way around the bottom. Multiply that measurement by 1.5 to 2 — a ruffle needs extra length to bunch up properly. A skirt hem that is 40 inches around will need a ruffle strip between 60 and 80 inches long.

Cut your ruffle strip to that length and to whatever width you want the finished ruffle to be. A 2-inch-wide finished ruffle is common and straightforward to work with. Cut the strip 4 inches wide to account for the seam allowance and hemming. If your fabric is not wide enough to cut one long strip, sew two or three shorter strips end-to-end with a straight seam, then press the seams open.

Hem the two short ends of your ruffle strip with a narrow fold (about 1/4 inch) and a straight stitch. Then hem one long edge — this will be the outer edge of the finished ruffle. The other long edge will be sewn to the skirt and will be hidden inside the seam. Press all hems flat with an iron before you move to gathering.

Gathering the Ruffle with Machine Stitches

Set your sewing machine to a long stitch length — about 4 to 5 millimeters. Sew two parallel rows of stitches along the raw (unhemmed) edge of your ruffle strip, about 1/4 inch apart. The first row should be about 1/4 inch from the edge, and the second row about 1/2 inch from the edge. Do not backstitch at the beginning or end — leave long thread tails hanging.

Pull the bobbin threads (the threads on the underside of the fabric) gently and evenly. The fabric will bunch up as you pull. Keep pulling until your ruffle strip is the same length as the edge of your skirt. Distribute the gathers evenly by sliding the fabric along the threads, then knot the thread ends to hold the gathers in place. Do not cut the threads yet.

Lay the gathered ruffle on a flat surface and check that the gathers are even and the ruffle lies flat. If one section is bunched more tightly than another, loosen the threads slightly and redistribute by hand. Once you are satisfied, press the gathered edge lightly with an iron on low heat to set the gathers without flattening them completely.

Pinning the Ruffle to Your Skirt

Lay your skirt flat and mark the edge where the ruffle will go with a pencil or tailor's chalk. Place the gathered ruffle on top of the skirt with the raw edge of the ruffle facing toward the inside of the skirt and the hemmed edge facing outward. The gathers should face upward or outward, depending on the look you want.

Pin the ruffle to the skirt every 2 to 3 inches, making sure the gathers stay even as you pin. Start at a seam or a marked point and work your way around. If you are attaching the ruffle to the hem, pin it so the raw edges of both the skirt and the ruffle line up. If you are attaching it to the waistband, position it so the raw edge of the ruffle sits just below the waistband seam.

Check that the ruffle is not twisted and that the gathers are still evenly spaced. Adjust pins as needed before you sew. If the ruffle is longer than the skirt edge in one spot, you can ease in the extra fabric by taking slightly deeper seams in that area, or you can gather that section a bit more tightly.

Sewing the Ruffle Down Permanently

Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Sew the ruffle to the skirt using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, sewing through all layers — the skirt, the ruffle, and the gathering threads. Sew slowly and keep the raw edges aligned as you go. Stop frequently to check that the gathers are not bunching up under the presser foot.

When you reach the end, backstitch to lock the stitches. Remove the pins and pull out the long gathering threads. If the gathering threads are difficult to remove, use a seam ripper to cut them in short sections and pull them out piece by piece.

For extra durability, sew a second row of stitches 1/4 inch away from the first row, on the side of the seam that will be hidden inside the skirt. This is called a stay stitch and keeps the ruffle from pulling away from the skirt over time. Trim any loose threads with scissors.

Finishing the Seam and Pressing

Trim the raw edges of the seam to about 1/4 inch from the stitching line. If your fabric frays easily, use pinking shears or a zigzag stitch to finish the raw edges. Fold the trimmed seam allowance toward the skirt (away from the ruffle) and press it flat with an iron on medium heat.

Press the entire ruffle from the back side of the skirt first, then flip the skirt over and press from the front. Use a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth or pressing paper) between the iron and the ruffle to avoid shining the fabric. Press gently — do not flatten the gathers.

Try on the skirt and check that the ruffle hangs evenly and the gathers look balanced. If any section looks bunched or loose, you can adjust it slightly by hand-stitching a few extra stitches in that area to hold the gathers in place.

Ruffle Placement Variations

A ruffle at the hem is the most common choice, but you can attach ruffles to other parts of the skirt. A ruffle sewn to the waistband sits horizontally and frames the top of the skirt. A ruffle down the center front or along a side seam creates a vertical accent. The sewing method is the same — gather the ruffle, pin it to the marked line, and sew with a straight stitch.

Tiered ruffles (multiple ruffles stacked on top of each other) require the same technique repeated. Sew the first ruffle to the skirt, then sew the second ruffle to the bottom edge of the first ruffle. Each ruffle should be gathered to match the length of the edge it is being sewn to. Tiered ruffles take longer but create a dramatic, layered effect.

If you want a ruffle that does not show gathering threads on the inside, you can use a French seam. Sew the ruffle to the skirt with the right sides facing outward (raw edges together), then trim and fold the seam allowance to the inside and sew again. This method hides all raw edges but is more time-consuming.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my ruffle gathers are uneven after I pull the threads?

Loosen the gathering threads slightly and redistribute the fabric by hand, sliding the bunched sections along the threads until they are even. You can also re-gather just the uneven section by sewing new gathering stitches and pulling again. It takes practice to get even gathers the first time.

Can I use a serger or overlock machine to sew the ruffle on?

Yes, a serger creates a strong, finished seam in one pass and is faster than a regular machine. Use the same pinning and gathering method, but adjust your serger settings for the weight of your fabric. A serger seam is narrower than a regular seam, so you may need to gather the ruffle slightly more to account for the smaller seam allowance.

How do I attach a ruffle if my skirt already has a finished hem?

You can sew the ruffle on top of the finished hem using a topstitch (a visible stitch line on the outside of the fabric). Pin the ruffle so the raw edge sits just above the hem, then sew with a straight stitch or narrow zigzag. The hem will show on the inside, but the ruffle will cover it on the outside. This method is faster than removing and re-hemming.

What fabric works best for ruffles?

Cotton, cotton blends, and lightweight linen gather smoothly and hold their shape. Heavier fabrics like denim or canvas are harder to gather evenly and create bulky seams. Stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit require a different gathering method and may not hold gathers as crisply.

How much thread do I need for gathering?

Use thread that matches your ruffle fabric. You will need enough to sew two rows of stitches the full length of the ruffle strip plus extra for pulling. A standard spool of thread is usually enough for one ruffle on a skirt. If you are making multiple ruffles or a very long ruffle, have a second spool on hand.