The basic method: gather fabric, pin it down, and stitch

Ruffle trim is a strip of gathered fabric sewn onto an edge—a neckline, armhole, hem, or seam. You make it by pulling thread through a long piece of fabric to bunch it up, then stitching that bunched strip to wherever you want it. The whole process takes about 30 minutes for a small project like a pillowcase or child's dress.

The simplest approach is to cut a strip of fabric twice as long as the edge you're trimming, sew two parallel lines of loose stitches across it, pull the thread to gather it down to the right length, then pin and stitch it in place. You can do this entirely by hand or use a sewing machine for the final seam.

The key is making the gathers even and securing them so they don't come loose when you wash the finished piece. Uneven gathers look sloppy; loose ones will unravel.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your ruffle strip at least twice as long as the edge you're trimming, because gathering shrinks the length by half or more.
  • Sew two parallel lines of long, loose stitches (or use a gathering foot on a machine) to create the gathers before you attach the ruffle.
  • Pull the bobbin threads evenly from both ends to bunch the fabric, then adjust the gathers by hand until they're even and the ruffle matches your target length.
  • Pin the gathered ruffle to your garment or project with the raw edges aligned, then stitch it down with a straight stitch or backstitch, sewing through all layers.

Cutting and preparing the ruffle strip

Measure the edge where you want the ruffle to go. Cut a strip of fabric that is at least twice that length—three times is safer if you want very full gathers. The width of the strip depends on how deep you want the ruffle to be; 1.5 to 2 inches is standard for a visible trim.

If your edge is curved (like an armhole), add an extra 25 percent to your length estimate, because curves take up more fabric. If you're trimming a long edge like a skirt hem, you may need to piece strips together end-to-end; sew them with a straight seam first, press it flat, then treat the joined strip as one piece.

Press the strip with an iron to remove wrinkles. If you want a finished edge on the outer edge of the ruffle (the edge that will show), fold it under by about 0.25 inches and press it, then fold it under again and press. You can stitch this fold down later, or leave it raw if the fabric doesn't fray badly.

Creating the gathers by hand

Thread a needle with a long length of thread—at least 3 feet. Do not knot the end. Starting at one end of your strip, make a line of long, loose running stitches about 0.25 inches from the raw edge you'll be attaching. Your stitches should be about 0.25 inches long, and the spaces between them should be about the same size. Sew all the way across the strip.

Without cutting the thread, go back to the starting end and sew a second parallel line about 0.5 inches away from the first. This gives you two lines of stitches to pull. When you reach the far end, leave the thread long—do not cut it or tie it off.

Now gently pull both threads from one end, bunching the fabric toward the other end. Pull evenly on both threads so the gathers form in a straight line. Stop when the ruffle is the same length as the edge you're trimming. Wrap the loose threads around a pin to hold the gathers in place while you work.

Creating the gathers with a sewing machine

If you have a gathering foot (also called a ruffle foot), attach it to your machine and follow your machine's manual for tension settings. A gathering foot automatically bunches fabric as you sew, so you only need to sew one line. This is faster and more even than hand-gathering, but not all machines have this foot.

If you don't have a gathering foot, use your regular presser foot and sew two parallel lines of long stitches (length set to 4 or 5 on most machines) about 0.5 inches apart, staying about 0.25 inches from the raw edge. Leave long thread tails at both ends. Pull the bobbin threads (the ones on the underside) from both ends to gather the fabric, just as you would by hand.

Pull evenly so the gathers bunch toward the center of the strip. Stop when the ruffle matches your target length. Wrap the thread tails around a pin to find them.

Pinning the ruffle to your project

Lay out the piece you're trimming—a pillowcase, neckline, or hem—with the right side facing up. Place the gathered ruffle on top of it with the raw edge of the ruffle aligned with the raw edge of your project. The gathers should face outward (away from the main piece) so they show when the project is finished.

Pin the ruffle in place every inch or so, adjusting the gathers as you go so they're even and full. If the ruffle is longer than the edge in some spots, gently redistribute the gathers by sliding them along the thread. If one section is too short, loosen the gathering threads slightly and pull them again.

Once the gathers look even and the ruffle fits the edge, you're ready to stitch. If you're sewing by hand, use a backstitch for strength. If you're using a machine, use a straight stitch with a length of 2 to 2.5 and sew slowly so the gathers don't bunch up under the presser foot.

Stitching the ruffle down

Sew as close as possible to the gathering stitches—usually about 0.25 inches from the raw edge. This hides the gathering threads and holds the ruffle securely. Sew through all layers: the ruffle, the main piece, and any seam allowance underneath.

If you're sewing by hand, make small, even stitches about 0.125 inches long. If you're using a machine, keep your hands steady and feed the fabric slowly so the gathers don't shift. Stop and adjust if you feel the presser foot pushing the gathers out of line.

When you reach the end, tie off your thread (by hand) or backstitch a few stitches (by machine) to lock the seam. Trim the gathering threads close to the stitching so they don't show.

Finishing the ruffle edges

If you folded and pressed the outer edge of the ruffle earlier, stitch it down now with a whip stitch by hand or a straight stitch by machine. This keeps the fold from coming loose and gives the ruffle a neat, finished look.

If you left the outer edge raw, you can trim it with pinking shears (which cut a zigzag that resists fraying) or leave it as is if the fabric is tightly woven and doesn't fray. On loosely woven fabrics like cotton voile, a raw edge will eventually fray in the wash, so finishing it is worth the extra minute.

Press the finished ruffle with an iron on low heat, using a pressing cloth if the fabric is delicate. The heat helps set the gathers and makes them look crisp.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much fabric do I need for a ruffle?

Cut at least twice the length of the edge you're trimming. If you want very full, bouncy gathers, use three times the length. For a curved edge like an armhole, add 25 percent extra because curves use more fabric.

Can I sew a ruffle on a finished edge without opening a seam?

Yes, but it's harder. You'll be stitching through more layers, and the ruffle will sit on top of the edge rather than being sandwiched into a seam. It works for decorative ruffles on hems or necklines that are already finished, but the seam won't be as strong as if you inserted the ruffle before finishing the edge.

What if my gathers come out uneven?

Loosen the gathering threads slightly and redistribute the bunches by hand, sliding them along the thread until they look even. If one section is too gathered and another too loose, pull the threads in that section a bit more or less. It takes practice to get perfectly even gathers, so don't worry if your first attempt looks a little lumpy.

Do I have to remove the gathering stitches after I sew the ruffle down?

No. The gathering stitches are hidden under the seam you just sewed, so they won't show. Leaving them in actually helps the gathers stay in place through washing and wearing. You can trim the thread tails short so they don't stick out, but the stitches themselves can stay.

What's the difference between a ruffle and a frill?

A ruffle is gathered fabric sewn onto an edge. A frill is usually a strip of fabric folded in half lengthwise and sewn so the fold creates a decorative edge. Ruffles are fuller and more textured; frills are flatter and more tailored. Both use the same basic sewing skills.