What a ruffle hem is and why you'd sew one
A ruffle hem is a strip of fabric gathered or pleated along one edge and sewn to the bottom of a garment so the gathered edge creates a wavy, textured border. The ruffle sits perpendicular to the garment edge — the straight edge attaches to the hem, and the gathered edge flares outward. You sew a ruffle hem to add volume, movement, and visual interest to skirts, dresses, sleeves, or necklines without changing the garment's core structure.
Ruffle hems work best on lightweight to medium-weight fabrics like cotton, linen blends, and jersey knit. They suit casual and dressy garments equally well, depending on the fabric you choose and how tightly you gather the ruffle. The technique requires only basic sewing skills — gathering, pinning, and a straight stitch — so it is a practical first project for someone moving beyond straightforward seams.
Key Takeaways
- Cut your ruffle strip 1.5 to 2 times the length of the garment edge you are hemming, with one long edge finished (folded and pressed or serged) before you gather it.
- Sew two parallel rows of long machine stitches along the unfinished edge of the ruffle strip, leaving long thread tails, then pull the bobbin threads to gather the fabric to the correct length.
- Pin the gathered ruffle to the garment with right sides together, matching the raw edges, then sew with a standard seam allowance and finish the seam with a zigzag stitch or serger to prevent fraying.
- Press the seam allowance toward the garment body after sewing, then topstitch if you want a polished look and extra durability.
Measure and cut your ruffle strip
Measure the edge of your garment where the ruffle will attach — the hem opening, neckline, or sleeve edge. Write down this measurement. Your ruffle strip needs to be 1.5 to 2 times this length so it has enough fabric to gather into ruffles. If your garment edge is 36 inches, cut a ruffle strip between 54 and 72 inches long.
Decide how deep you want the ruffle to be. Most ruffles are 1.5 to 3 inches wide when finished. Add 0.5 inches to this measurement for seam allowance — so a 2-inch finished ruffle means cutting a strip 2.5 inches wide. Cut your strip along the grain of the fabric, parallel to the selvage, so it has consistent stretch and drape. If you need extra length, piece two strips together with a diagonal seam (a bias seam) rather than a straight seam across the width, which creates a visible line.
Finish one long edge of the ruffle strip
The long edge of the ruffle strip that will be visible when the garment is worn needs to be finished so it does not fray. You have three options: fold and press, use a serger, or use a zigzag stitch on your machine.
To fold and press: fold the long edge of the strip toward the wrong side by 0.25 inches, press with an iron, then fold again by another 0.25 inches and press. This creates a neat, enclosed edge. Topstitch close to the fold if you want the finish to be extra find and visible.
To use a serger: run the long edge through your serger set to a standard 3-thread or 4-thread stitch. This trims and finishes the edge in one pass.
To use a zigzag stitch: set your machine to a medium-width zigzag stitch and sew along the raw edge, letting the stitch run partly on the fabric and partly off the edge. This prevents fraying without adding bulk. This method is fastest if you do not have a serger.
Gather the ruffle strip using machine stitches
Lay your ruffle strip flat with the wrong side facing up. The unfinished edge (the edge you have not yet finished) should face you. Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length available — usually 5 or 6 on most machines. Use regular thread, not heavy-duty thread.
Sew a straight line 0.25 inches from the raw edge, running the full length of the strip. Leave 2 to 3 inches of thread loose at both the start and end — do not backstitch. Sew a second line 0.5 inches from the raw edge, also leaving long thread tails. You now have two parallel rows of long stitches.
Pull the bobbin threads (the threads on the underside of the fabric) at one end of the strip. Gather the fabric along these threads by sliding it toward the end, bunching it up like an accordion. Pull evenly so the gathers are roughly the same size across the strip. Keep gathering until the ruffle strip is the same length as your garment edge measurement. Tie off the thread ends in a knot so the gathers do not come loose.
Pin the ruffle to the garment
Lay your garment flat with the right side facing up. Place the gathered ruffle on top of it with right sides together — the finished edge of the ruffle should point toward the center of the garment, and the raw gathered edge should align with the raw edge of the garment hem. The gathers should face inward.
Pin the ruffle to the garment every 1 to 2 inches, making sure the gathers are distributed evenly and the ruffle lies flat without puckering. If the ruffle is longer than the garment edge even after gathering, you gathered it too loosely — pull the bobbin threads tighter. If it is shorter, you gathered it too tightly — loosen the threads slightly and redistribute.
Sew the ruffle to the garment
Set your machine back to a normal stitch length (2.5 to 3 on most machines). Using a 0.5-inch seam allowance, sew the ruffle to the garment along the pinned edge. Sew slowly and remove pins as you approach them — do not sew over pins. The gathering stitches will be inside the seam and will not show.
After sewing, remove the gathering threads by gently pulling them out from the right side of the fabric. They should slide out easily now that the ruffle is permanently stitched in place.
Finish the seam allowance to prevent fraying. Use a zigzag stitch along the raw edges of both the garment and the ruffle, or run them through a serger. You can also use a bias tape or binding to encase the seam allowance for a more finished look, though this adds an extra step.
Press and topstitch for a polished finish
Press the seam allowance toward the garment body (away from the ruffle) using a hot iron. This sets the seam and helps the ruffle sit smoothly. If you pressed the seam allowance toward the ruffle instead, it will create a ridge that shows on the right side.
For extra durability and a professional appearance, topstitch 0.25 inches from the seam line on the garment side. This holds the seam allowance in place and creates a visible line of stitching that frames the ruffle. Use thread that matches your garment or a contrasting thread if you want the topstitching to be a design feature.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my ruffle gathers are uneven?
Uneven gathers usually mean the bobbin threads broke or were not pulled evenly. You can redistribute the gathers by hand after pinning — gently push fabric along the gathering threads to even out the bunches. If the gathers are severely uneven, remove the gathering threads, re-gather, and try again.
Can I use a serger instead of gathering by hand?
Yes. Some sergers have a gathering foot attachment that gathers fabric as it sews. This is faster than hand-gathering but requires the attachment. Check your serger manual to see if this feature is available on your model.
How much fabric do I actually need for the ruffle?
Start with 1.5 times the garment edge length if you want a subtle ruffle with small gathers. Use 2 times the length for a fuller, more dramatic ruffle. Lightweight fabrics gather more visibly, so you may need less length; heavier fabrics need more length to create the same effect.
What happens if I sew the ruffle on upside down?
The ruffle will still work, but it will look wrong — the gathers will face outward instead of creating a neat wavy edge. If you notice this before pressing, carefully remove the stitches, flip the ruffle, and sew again. After pressing, it is difficult to fix without visible damage.
Do I have to finish the outer edge of the ruffle?
Yes, unless you want the ruffle to fray. Even if the garment will be worn tucked in or hidden, an unfinished edge will shed threads and look unfinished from the inside. Finishing takes only a few minutes and makes the garment last longer.