Sew the lining to the dress at the armholes and neckline first
Start by pinning the lining to the dress with right sides facing each other. Match the seams at the shoulders, sides, and any darts. Pin around the armholes and neckline, keeping the pins perpendicular to the edge so you can sew right over them. The hem of the lining should hang about half an inch shorter than the dress hem — this prevents the lining from showing at the bottom when you move.
Sew the lining to the dress around the neckline and armholes using a ½-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the start and end. Sew slowly around curves; the armhole is the trickiest part because it changes direction sharply. Clip the seam allowance at the curves — cut small notches into the fabric between the stitching and the raw edge, being careful not to cut the thread itself. This lets the seam lie flat when you turn it right side out.
Key Takeaways
- Pin the lining to the dress with right sides together, matching seams at shoulders and sides, before you sew anything.
- Sew the neckline and armholes with a ½-inch seam allowance, then clip the curves so the seam lies flat when turned.
- Leave the side seams open so you can turn the dress right side out and sew the lining sides to the dress sides by hand.
- Fold the lining hem up and hand-stitch it to the dress hem with a ladder stitch, keeping stitches invisible from the outside.
- Press the finished lining flat with an iron set to the heat appropriate for your fabric fiber.
Turn the dress right side out through one open side seam
Before you turn the dress, make sure the side seams of the dress and lining are still open — you should not have sewn them closed yet. Reach through one of the open side seams and pull the dress through to the right side. This takes patience; work slowly and ease the fabric through rather than yanking. Once the dress is right side out, smooth it with your hands so the lining sits evenly inside.
Press the neckline and armholes with an iron on a low to medium heat setting, depending on your fabric. Use a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth or even a clean kitchen towel) between the iron and the fabric to prevent shine or scorching. Press from the inside of the dress so you do not flatten the outer fabric. The seam should roll slightly to the inside so the lining is not visible from the outside.
Sew the side seams of the dress and lining together
Pin the open side seams of the dress and lining together, keeping right sides facing right sides. The dress side seam should line up with the lining side seam. Sew these seams closed with a ½-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch. Backstitch at the start and end. You now have a tube of dress with lining inside, open only at the hem.
Press the side seams open with your iron. This reduces bulk and makes the dress hang better. If your fabric is prone to fraying, you can finish the raw edges of the seam allowance with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears, but this is optional for most home sewing.
Hand-stitch the lining hem to the dress hem
Fold the raw edge of the lining hem up by ½ inch and press it flat with your iron. The lining should now hang about ½ inch shorter than the dress hem. Thread a needle with thread that matches the lining color and knot the end. Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) to sew the folded lining edge to the dress hem.
To make a ladder stitch: bring the needle up through the fold of the lining hem, then insert it directly across into the dress fabric just below the lining. Slide the needle through the dress fabric for about ¼ inch, then come back out and cross back into the lining fold. Slide through the lining fold for ¼ inch and come back out. Repeat this zigzag pattern all the way around the hem. Pull the thread snug every few stitches so the stitches disappear into the fold. The stitches should not be visible from either the outside or inside of the dress.
find the lining at the side seams and armholes
Once the hem is sewn, tack the lining to the dress at the side seams to keep it from shifting. At each side seam, take one small stitch through the lining and one small stitch through the dress seam allowance, about 2 inches below the armhole. Knot the thread and trim it. This single stitch holds the lining in place without being visible.
You can also tack the lining at the armhole seams if it tends to bunch. Make a small stitch at the inside of the armhole seam, catching just a thread or two of the lining and the dress seam allowance. One tack per armhole is usually enough. These stitches keep the lining from twisting when you put the dress on or take it off.
Press the finished dress and check the lining hangs evenly
Give the entire dress a final press with your iron on the appropriate heat setting for your fabric. Press the outside first, then flip it inside out and press the lining. Make sure the lining lies flat and does not bunch anywhere. If you see wrinkles in the lining that won't come out, you may need to loosen one of the tacking stitches and reposition the lining slightly.
Try the dress on and move around in it — reach your arms up, sit down, bend over. The lining should move with you without twisting or riding up. If it does twist, you can add another tacking stitch at the side seam lower down. If it rides up at the armhole, the armhole seam may be too tight; in that case, you can let out the armhole seam slightly by removing a few stitches and resewing with a slightly larger seam allowance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I machine-stitch the lining hem instead of hand-stitching it?
Yes, but it will be visible from the inside. If you do not mind seeing a line of stitching on the inside of the dress, you can fold the lining hem up and sew it to the dress hem with a straight stitch on the machine. Use thread that matches the lining. Hand-stitching is invisible and looks more polished, but machine-stitching is faster and just as durable.
What if my lining is too long and shows below the dress hem?
Trim the lining before you sew the hem. Try the dress on and have someone mark where the lining should end — about ½ inch shorter than the dress hem. Take the dress off, lay it flat, and cut the lining to that length. Then fold and sew the lining hem as described above.
Do I have to match the lining seams to the dress seams?
Yes, matching them prevents the lining from twisting inside the dress. If the seams do not line up, the lining will bunch on one side and pull on the other. Take time to pin carefully before you sew.
What thread should I use for hand-stitching the lining?
Use thread that matches the lining color, not the dress color. The stitches are on the inside, so they should blend with the lining. If your lining is a print or a color you cannot match exactly, use a neutral color like beige or gray that will not stand out.
Can I sew the lining to a dress that already has a finished hem?
Yes, but it is more difficult. You will need to open the side seams of the dress, insert the lining, and sew the lining sides to the dress sides by hand instead of machine. The neckline and armholes are sewn the same way. This method works but takes longer because you cannot use the machine for the side seams.