The basic method: pin, sew, and turn

A bag lining is sewn in two stages. First, you sew the lining pieces together to form a lining bag, leaving a 4-inch opening in the bottom seam. Then you insert that lining bag inside your outer bag (which is already sewn closed), pin the top edges together, and sew around the opening. Finally, you pull the whole bag through that 4-inch gap, close the gap by hand, and push the lining down inside.

The reason for the opening is straightforward: it gives you a way to turn the bag right-side-out without tearing the seams. Without it, you would have no way to reach inside and flip the fabric.

This method works for tote bags, shoulder bags, and most structured bags. It does not work well for bags with rigid bottoms or metal frames, which need a different approach.

Key Takeaways

  • Sew your lining pieces together first, leaving a 4-inch opening in the bottom seam so you can turn the bag later.
  • Insert the finished lining bag inside your already-sewn outer bag, then pin and sew the top edges together with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  • Pull the entire bag through the 4-inch opening in the lining to turn it right-side-out, then hand-stitch that opening closed.
  • Press the seams flat and push the lining down inside the bag so it sits smoothly against the outer fabric.

Preparing your lining pieces and outer bag

Before you start sewing, make sure both your outer bag and your lining are cut to the same size and shape. The lining should be identical in dimensions—if your bag is 12 inches wide and 14 inches tall, your lining pieces should be 12 by 14 as well. If the lining is larger, it will bunch up inside; if it is smaller, it will not reach the top edges.

Your outer bag should already be completely sewn and turned right-side-out before the lining goes in. The side seams and bottom seam should all be finished. If you have not sewn your outer bag yet, do that first.

Cut your lining fabric with a 1/2-inch seam allowance on all sides, the same way you cut your outer fabric. If you are using two lining pieces (front and back), you will sew them together. If you are using four pieces (front, back, and two sides), you will sew all four together to form a complete lining bag.

Sewing the lining bag with the turning opening

Place your lining pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Sew the side seams first, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance and a straight stitch. Use a thread color that matches your lining, not your outer bag.

Once the sides are sewn, sew the bottom seam—but stop sewing 4 inches before you reach the end. Backstitch to lock the thread, then leave a 4-inch gap and resume sewing the rest of the seam. This gap is your turning opening. Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle to reduce bulk when you turn the bag, but do not cut into the stitching.

Press the lining seams open with an iron. This makes the lining lie flatter and makes it easier to insert into the outer bag.

Inserting the lining and pinning the top edge

Turn your lining bag right-side-out through the 4-inch opening. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Press the lining with an iron so it holds its shape.

Slide the lining bag inside your outer bag, with the wrong side of the lining facing the wrong side of the outer bag. The top edges should line up exactly. If one is longer than the other, you have a sizing problem—check that both bags were cut to the same dimensions.

Pin the top edge all the way around, placing pins every 2 to 3 inches. Make sure the lining sits evenly inside the bag and does not bunch on one side. If you have handles or straps attached to the outer bag, the lining should sit below them, not catch them in the seam.

Sewing the lining to the bag opening

Sew around the entire top opening using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Sew slowly and keep the fabric flat as you go. Use a thread color that matches your outer bag, since this seam will be visible on the outside.

Start sewing at a side seam, not at a corner, so your thread knot is less visible. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. If your bag has handles, sew right over them—the handle stitching will hold them in place.

Once you have sewn all the way around, remove the pins and try the bag on or hold it up to check that the lining sits evenly. If it bunches on one side, you may have pinned unevenly; this is fixable by hand later.

Turning the bag and closing the lining opening

Reach through the 4-inch opening in the lining and grab the outer bag. Pull the entire bag through the opening to turn it right-side-out. This is the moment the whole construction reveals itself—the outer bag flips to show its pretty side, and the lining ends up on the inside where it belongs.

Once the bag is turned, use a point turner to push the top corners out so they are crisp and square. Press the top edge with an iron, making sure the seam sits exactly at the edge.

Close the 4-inch opening in the lining by hand using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch). Thread a needle with thread that matches your lining. Bring the needle up through one fold of fabric, across to the opposite fold, and back down through the fold you just came from. Move the needle along inside the fold about 1/4 inch, then come back out and cross to the other side again. The stitches will be hidden inside the fold. Tie off the thread when you reach the end.

Finishing and pressing

Push the lining down inside the bag so it sits smoothly against the outer fabric. The top seam should be crisp and the lining should not bunch or twist. If there are wrinkles, use an iron on low heat to press them out, working from inside the bag.

If your lining is still visible at the top edge (showing between the outer fabric and the lining), you can tack it down with a few invisible stitches. Bring the needle up through the lining seam, take a tiny stitch in the outer fabric, and go back down through the lining seam. These stitches should be nearly invisible.

Your bag is now complete. The lining should move freely inside the bag and not be stretched or bunched anywhere.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I sew the lining opening closed before turning the bag?

You will have no way to turn the bag right-side-out. You would have to cut a hole in the outer fabric to reach inside, which ruins the bag. Always leave the 4-inch opening in the lining, not the outer bag.

Can I use a serger to sew the lining seams?

Yes. A serger finishes the raw edges as it sews, which means your lining will look neater inside the bag. Use the same 1/2-inch seam allowance and still leave the 4-inch opening in the bottom seam.

What if the lining is too loose and slides around inside the bag?

You can tack the lining to the outer bag at the side seams using a few invisible stitches. Bring the needle up through the lining seam, take a tiny stitch in the outer fabric seam, and go back down. Space these stitches 6 to 8 inches apart along each side seam.

Do I need to use the same fabric for the lining as the outer bag?

No. Lining fabric is usually lighter and smoother than outer fabric—cotton sateen, cotton voile, or quilting cotton work well. It should be similar in weight to your outer fabric so the bag hangs evenly, but it does not have to match.

What if my bag has a gusset or boxed bottom?

Sew the lining the same way, including the gusset or boxed bottom seams. The 4-inch opening still goes in the bottom seam of the lining, in the same location as the outer bag's bottom seam. The turning process is the same.