The basic process: pin, baste, and stitch

Sewing a lining into a jacket means attaching a separate fabric layer to the inside of your jacket shell. You pin the lining to the jacket at the armholes, neckline, and front edges, then stitch it down by hand or machine. The lining covers all the raw seams inside the jacket and gives it a finished look.

The work takes place in stages: first you prepare both the jacket and the lining separately, then you attach them together at the openings, and finally you close the gap you left for turning. Most home sewers do the final closing by hand with a ladder stitch, which is nearly invisible from the outside.

The whole job typically takes two to four hours depending on jacket size and your sewing speed. You do not need special tools — a needle, thread, pins, and scissors are enough if you sew by hand, or a sewing machine if you prefer machine stitching for the main seams.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your lining from the same pattern pieces as your jacket shell, but trim the seam allowances smaller so the lining sits inside without bulk.
  • Sew the lining pieces together at the side seams and shoulder seams before you attach it to the jacket.
  • Pin the lining to the jacket at the neckline, armholes, and front edges with right sides facing, then stitch around these openings.
  • Leave a 4- to 6-inch gap along one seam so you can turn the jacket right-side out, then close that gap by hand with a ladder stitch.
  • Press the finished jacket to flatten the seams and make the lining sit smoothly against the shell.

Prepare the lining pieces before attaching them

Cut your lining from the same pattern pieces you used for the jacket shell — front, back, sleeves, and any other pieces. The lining should be cut on grain just like the shell fabric. Use a lightweight lining fabric such as cotton sateen, silk charmeuse, or a synthetic blend; these slide smoothly against the shell and do not add bulk.

Trim the seam allowances on the lining pieces to half the width of the jacket seam allowances. If your jacket seams are 5/8 inch, trim the lining seams to 3/8 inch. This narrower allowance keeps the lining from creating a thick ridge inside the jacket when you stitch it down.

Sew the lining pieces together at the side seams and shoulder seams using a straight stitch. Press these seams flat. Do not sew the lining sleeves to the lining body yet — you will attach the sleeves after the lining is pinned to the jacket shell.

Pin the lining to the jacket at the openings

Turn your finished jacket inside out. Place the lining inside the jacket with wrong sides of the lining facing the wrong side of the jacket shell. The lining and shell should be nested together like two cups stacked inside each other.

Starting at the neckline, pin the lining to the jacket with the raw edges aligned. Work your way around the neckline, then pin down the front edges and around each armhole. Use pins spaced about 2 inches apart. The lining should lie flat against the shell with no wrinkles or puckers.

Leave a 4- to 6-inch gap unpinned along one of the side seams. This gap is where you will turn the jacket right-side out later. Mark this gap clearly so you do not accidentally stitch across it.

Stitch the lining to the jacket shell

Machine stitch around the neckline, front edges, and armholes using a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Stitch slowly around curves like the neckline and armholes so your stitches stay even. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam, and backstitch on both sides of the gap you left open.

Trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch after stitching. Clip into the seam allowance at curves — the neckline especially — so the lining will turn smoothly without puckering. Clip to within 1/8 inch of the stitching line, spacing clips about 1/2 inch apart.

If you prefer to hand stitch instead of machine stitching, use a backstitch with thread that matches the lining. The backstitch is stronger than a running stitch and holds up better to wear. Work slowly and keep your stitches small and even, about 1/8 inch long.

Attach the lining sleeves and turn the jacket

Before you turn the jacket, pin and stitch the lining sleeves to the lining body at the armholes. The lining sleeve should fit inside the armhole opening of the lining body. Stitch with a 3/8-inch seam allowance, then trim and clip the seam allowance as you did at the neckline.

Now turn the jacket right-side out through the gap you left in the side seam. Work slowly and gently so you do not tear the fabric. Once the jacket is right-side out, reach through the gap and pull the sleeves through so they sit correctly inside the jacket.

Press the jacket with an iron, paying special attention to the neckline, front edges, and armholes. Press from the inside so you do not flatten the shell fabric. The lining should now lie smoothly against the inside of the jacket with no wrinkles.

Close the gap with a ladder stitch

Thread a needle with thread that matches the lining fabric. Fold the raw edges of the gap inward by 3/8 inch and press them flat. Pin the folded edges together so they meet in a straight line.

Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) to close the gap. Bring the needle up through one folded edge, then slide it horizontally inside the fold for about 1/4 inch. Bring the needle back out and cross over to the opposite folded edge. Slide the needle inside that fold for 1/4 inch, then come back out and cross back to the first edge. Repeat this pattern along the entire gap. Pull the thread gently every few stitches so the edges draw together and the stitches disappear inside the fold.

Once the gap is closed, press the jacket one more time. The lining should be completely hidden inside, and the inside of the jacket should look smooth and finished.

Troubleshooting common problems

The lining puckers at the neckline or armholes. You did not clip the seam allowance enough. Unpick a section of stitching, clip more deeply into the curves, and re-stitch. The clips should be close together — about 1/2 inch apart — and should go almost to the stitching line without cutting through it.

The lining shows on the outside of the jacket. The lining is too large. This usually happens if you did not trim the seam allowances small enough before attaching the lining. The next time, trim lining seam allowances to 3/8 inch or even 1/4 inch. You can also carefully unpick the seams, trim more fabric away, and re-stitch.

The ladder stitch is visible or the gap does not close evenly. Make sure you are sliding the needle inside the fold of fabric, not stitching on top of it. The thread should run inside the fold where it cannot be seen. Take smaller stitches — 1/4 inch or less — and pull the thread gently so the edges draw together gradually.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use the same fabric for the lining as the jacket shell?

You can, but it is not ideal. Lining fabric is designed to be slippery and lightweight so it slides against your body without adding bulk. If you use the same heavy fabric as the shell, the jacket will feel stiff inside and the seams will create visible ridges. A contrasting lining fabric also looks more professional and finished.

What if I do not have a gap to turn the jacket through?

You must leave a gap or the jacket cannot be turned right-side out. If you forget to leave one, you will have to unpick several inches of stitching to create one. Always plan the gap before you start stitching — mark it with pins or a fabric marker so you do not forget it.

Do I have to hand stitch the ladder stitch, or can I machine stitch the gap closed?

A ladder stitch is nearly invisible, so it is the standard choice. Machine stitching will show as a visible line of thread on the inside of the jacket. If you do not mind the look, you can machine stitch the gap closed with a straight stitch, but most sewers prefer the ladder stitch because it is invisible.

How do I keep the lining from sliding around inside the jacket?

After the lining is attached, you can tack it to the jacket at the side seams and shoulder seams using a few hand stitches. Make small stitches that go through the lining and the seam allowance of the jacket shell, but do not go all the way through to the outside. These tacks keep the lining anchored so it does not shift when you wear the jacket.

What weight of thread should I use for hand stitching the lining?

Use all-purpose thread or hand-sewing thread in a weight that matches your lining fabric. For lightweight lining, use regular all-purpose thread. For heavier lining, you can use buttonhole thread or topstitching thread, which is thicker and stronger. Match the thread color to the lining so any stitches that show will blend in.