Sewing a lining means attaching a fabric layer to the inside of a garment or bag to hide seams and add structure
A lining is a separate piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment, jacket, skirt, or bag. It covers raw seams, prevents fabric from stretching out of shape, and makes the inside look finished. The basic method is the same whether you are lining a coat, a dress, or a tote bag: you sew the lining pieces together, attach the lining to the outer fabric at the openings, and then fold and stitch it closed so no raw edges show.
The process takes longer than sewing the outer garment alone, but the steps are straightforward if you work in order. Most home sewers can line a straightforward garment in an afternoon once they understand where the stitches go and why.
Key Takeaways
- Cut lining pieces from the same pattern pieces as your outer fabric, but trim them slightly smaller so they do not bunch at the seams.
- Sew the lining pieces together separately, press the seams, and try it on inside-out to check the fit before attaching it to the garment.
- Pin the lining to the outer fabric at the neckline, armholes, or opening, then sew them together with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
- Turn the garment right-side out through an opening, press the seams flat, and hand-stitch the opening closed with a ladder stitch or whip stitch.
- Tack the lining to the seams at the side or underarm so it does not shift inside the garment when worn.
Prepare your lining fabric and cut the pieces
Use the same pattern pieces you used for the outer garment, but trim each lining piece ½ inch smaller on all sides. This prevents the lining from puckering at the seams and edges. If your pattern includes seam allowances (most do), trim the lining pieces inside the seam allowance line rather than cutting them the same size as the outer pieces.
Press the lining fabric before you cut. Wrinkles make it hard to cut straight and cause the finished lining to look rumpled. Use a medium heat setting and a pressing cloth if the lining is synthetic or delicate.
Mark any notches, darts, or construction marks on the lining pieces with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. These marks help you match the lining pieces to the outer fabric pieces later and may support darts are sewn in the same place on both layers.
Sew the lining pieces together as a separate unit
Treat the lining as its own garment. Sew the lining pieces together using the same seams as the outer fabric—side seams, shoulder seams, and any darts. Use a ½-inch seam allowance, which is standard for lining. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the stitches.
Press each seam as you finish it. Press side seams to the back, shoulder seams to one side (usually the back), and darts toward the center or down. Pressing makes the seams lie flat and makes it easier to attach the lining to the garment later.
Try the lining on inside-out before you attach it to the outer garment. This catches fit problems early. If the lining is too tight or too loose, you can adjust the seam allowance before sewing it to the garment. If the lining is too small, you may need to cut new pieces with a larger seam allowance or choose a different lining fabric.
Pin the lining to the outer fabric at the opening
Place the outer garment right-side out on your work surface. Slip the lining inside it, wrong-side out. The right sides of the outer fabric and lining should face each other. Match the seams: pin the shoulder seams together, the side seams together, and any other construction seams.
Pin around the neckline, armholes, or opening where the lining will be sewn to the outer fabric. Space pins 2 to 3 inches apart. Make sure the lining and outer fabric lie flat and do not twist. If you are lining a bag, pin around the top opening only.
Check that the lining seams align with the outer seams at the shoulders and sides. Misaligned seams will cause the lining to bunch or twist when you turn the garment right-side out.
Sew the lining to the outer fabric
Sew around the neckline, armholes, or opening with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Use a thread color that matches the outer fabric so stitches are less visible if they show. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Sew slowly around curves like necklines and armholes so the stitches stay straight and the seam does not pucker.
Leave one opening about 4 to 6 inches long unsewn. This opening is where you will turn the garment right-side out. Choose a location that is straightforward to close later—a side seam or underarm seam works well because the stitches will be hidden.
Trim the seam allowance to ⅜ inch after sewing. Clip into the seam allowance at curves (necklines and armholes) every ½ inch, cutting almost to the stitching line but not through it. These clips allow the seam to curve smoothly when you turn the garment right-side out without bunching.
Turn the garment right-side out and press
Reach through the opening you left unsewn and pull the outer fabric through. Turn the garment right-side out slowly, using a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push out corners and curves. Smooth the fabric as you pull so seams do not twist.
Press the seam where the lining meets the outer fabric. Use a medium heat and press from the outer fabric side so the seam lies flat and crisp. Press around the entire neckline, armholes, or opening. This step makes the finished edge look professional.
Fold the raw edges of the opening inward ½ inch on both the outer fabric and the lining. Press these folded edges flat. Pin them together so they do not shift while you stitch.
Close the opening with a hand stitch
Use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) to close the opening. Thread a needle with thread that matches the outer fabric. Knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of the outer fabric, then slide it across into the fold of the lining directly opposite. Slide the needle along inside the fold for about ¼ inch, then bring it back out and cross over to the outer fabric fold again.
Keep the stitches small—about ⅛ inch—and pull the thread snug every few stitches so the opening closes without a visible seam. The stitches should be hidden inside the fold. When the opening is closed, take a few stitches in place at the end and knot the thread on the inside.
If you prefer a machine stitch, you can topstitch around the neckline or opening with a matching thread. This creates a visible line but is faster and holds more securely. Topstitching works well on casual garments and bags.
Tack the lining to the seams so it does not shift
The lining can slide around inside the garment as you wear it. Tack it in place by hand-stitching it to the seams at the underarm, side seams, or shoulder seams. Use small stitches and thread that matches the lining so they are not visible from the outside.
Make a small stitch through the lining and into the seam allowance of the outer fabric, then move 1 to 2 inches along the seam and make another stitch. Space tacks 3 to 4 inches apart. Do not stitch through to the outside of the garment—stitch only through the lining and the seam allowance.
Tack the lining at the underarm seam on jackets and dresses, and at the side seams on skirts. For bags, tack the lining to the side seams and bottom seam so it stays in place when the bag is full.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric should I use for a lining?
Cotton sateen, cotton voile, silk charmeuse, and polyester lining fabric are common choices. Pick a fabric that is smooth, does not wrinkle easily, and is lighter weight than the outer fabric. Avoid heavy fabrics that add bulk. Match the fiber content to the outer fabric when possible—use cotton lining for cotton garments and synthetic lining for synthetic garments.
Can I line a garment that is already sewn?
Yes, but it is harder. You will need to open one seam (usually a side seam) to slip the lining in, then sew it closed. This method works for straightforward garments but is time-consuming. It is easier to sew the lining in during construction before the garment is finished.
What if the lining shows at the neckline or armhole?
Trim the seam allowance narrower on the lining side so it sits inside the outer fabric seam. Press the seam toward the outer fabric. If the lining still shows, you can add bias tape or a facing to the neckline or armhole to cover it.
Do I need to line every garment I sew?
No. Lining is optional and adds time and cost. Unlined garments work fine for casual wear. Lining is most useful for jackets, coats, and structured bags where it adds durability and a finished look. Lightweight dresses and skirts often work better without lining because it adds bulk.
How do I keep the lining from twisting inside the garment?
Tack the lining to the seams as described above, and make sure the lining seams align with the outer seams when you pin and sew. If the lining is too large, it will bunch and twist. Trim the lining pieces smaller than the outer pieces to prevent this.