The basic steps for lining a bag
Sewing a bag lining means cutting fabric to fit inside your bag, sewing it into a tube or pouch shape, and then attaching it to the bag's interior so the raw seams stay hidden. The process takes about an hour for a straightforward tote or small bag, longer for structured styles with pockets or zippers.
The most common method is to sew the lining separately, then slip it inside the finished bag shell and stitch it to the top opening. This works because you can press and finish the lining before it goes in, and you do not have to reach into a half-assembled bag to sew seams.
You will need lining fabric (cotton, cotton-blend, or specialty lining like Pul for waterproofing), thread that matches or blends with your lining, scissors, pins, a sewing machine, and an iron. Most bags use lining fabric that is the same weight as quilting cotton or lighter.
Key Takeaways
- Cut lining pieces the same size as your bag pieces, or slightly smaller if your bag has seam allowances you want to hide completely.
- Sew the lining pieces together using the same seams as the bag shell, but leave a 3- to 4-inch opening in one seam so you can turn it right-side out and insert it into the bag.
- Press the lining flat, fold the opening edges inward, and pin the lining to the top edge of the finished bag before stitching it down by hand or machine.
- Hand-stitching the lining opening closed after the lining is installed gives a neater finish than machine-stitching and is the standard method for quality bags.
Cutting and preparing lining fabric
Measure your bag pieces and cut lining pieces to match. If your bag pattern includes a seam allowance (usually half an inch), you can cut the lining the same size as the pattern pieces, or cut it slightly smaller—about a quarter inch all around—so the lining does not peek out at the seams.
Press your lining fabric with an iron before you cut. Lining fabric wrinkles easily, and starting with flat fabric makes pinning and sewing much faster. If your lining is a print or has a direction (like a stripe), lay out your pattern pieces so they run the same way on each piece.
Mark any pocket placements or attachment points on the lining pieces now, before you sew. Use a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk so the marks wash out later. If your bag has interior pockets, sew those to the lining pieces before you assemble the lining.
Sewing the lining pieces together
Pin the lining pieces together the same way you would pin the bag shell pieces. Use the same seam allowance your bag uses—usually half an inch. Sew the side seams and bottom seam, but leave a 3- to 4-inch opening in one seam, usually the bottom or one side seam. This opening is how you will turn the lining right-side out and later insert it into the bag.
Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. When you reach the opening, sew forward for a few stitches, then backstitch to find the thread before you stop. Leave the opening unsewn, then start sewing again a few inches away, backstitch, and continue to the end of the seam.
Trim the seam allowances to a quarter inch and clip the corners diagonally if your bag has square corners. This reduces bulk when you turn the lining right-side out. Press all the seams flat with an iron, pressing the seam allowances to one side.
Turning the lining and closing the opening
Reach through the opening you left and pull the lining right-side out. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out fully so they are sharp and square. Press the entire lining with an iron, paying special attention to the opening edges.
Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and press them flat. Pin the opening closed. You can now sew the opening shut by machine using a straight stitch very close to the fold, or by hand using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which is invisible from the outside. Hand-stitching is the traditional method and looks more professional, but machine-stitching is faster and holds just as well.
Installing the lining in the bag
Slip the finished lining inside your completed bag shell, wrong-side out. The lining should sit inside the bag with the seams aligned to the bag seams. If your bag has handles or a strap attached to the top, tuck them out of the way so they do not get caught in the stitching.
Pin the top edge of the lining to the top edge of the bag, matching seams and distributing the fabric evenly. The lining should fit snugly inside without puckering or pulling. If it is too loose, you may have cut it too small; if it is too tight, you cut it too large.
Sew the lining to the bag using a straight stitch about a quarter inch from the top edge. Sew all the way around, backstitching at the start and end. You can sew by machine or by hand using a ladder stitch. Machine-stitching is faster; hand-stitching is less visible if your thread does not match perfectly.
Finishing the top edge
After the lining is sewn to the bag, the raw edges of both the bag and lining are sandwiched together at the top. Fold the top edge inward by half an inch and press it flat with an iron. This folds both the bag fabric and the lining together and hides all the raw edges.
Pin the folded edge and sew it down using a ladder stitch by hand or a straight stitch by machine, stitching very close to the fold. This final row of stitching holds the fold in place and gives the top of the bag a clean, finished look. If you used a contrasting thread color for the lining installation, switch back to thread that matches your bag fabric for this final seam.
Troubleshooting common lining problems
If the lining is bunching or puckering inside the bag, the lining is too large. You can pull it out, trim a quarter inch from the seams, and reinstall it. If the lining is pulling too tight and the bag feels stiff, the lining is too small; cut new lining pieces slightly larger and try again.
If the opening you left to turn the lining is too small and you cannot reach through it, you will have to cut a larger opening and sew it closed by hand afterward. A 4-inch opening is usually the minimum for bags smaller than a standard tote; larger bags can use a 3-inch opening.
If your thread shows on the outside of the bag after you sew the lining to the top edge, use a thread color that matches your bag fabric for that seam, or switch to hand-stitching with a ladder stitch, which is less visible. If the lining shifts while you are sewing, pin more frequently—every inch or two—to keep it from sliding.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to leave an opening in the lining to turn it right-side out?
Yes, unless you are using a method where you sew the lining and bag together as one unit from the start. The opening is the only way to turn the lining right-side out and hide the seams. Without it, you would have raw seams showing inside your bag.
Can I sew the lining to the bag before I close the opening?
No. The lining must be turned right-side out and the opening closed before you install it in the bag. If you sew the lining to the bag while it is still inside-out, you will not be able to turn it or close the opening.
What if my bag has a zipper at the top instead of an open edge?
Sew the zipper to the top of the bag shell before you insert the lining. Then sew the lining to the zipper tape (the fabric strip the zipper is attached to) instead of to the bag fabric. This hides the zipper tape and holds the lining in place.
Should the lining be the same fabric as the bag?
No. Lining fabric is usually lighter and more slippery than bag fabric, which makes it easier to put things in and take them out. Cotton lining, cotton-blend, or specialty lining like Pul (for waterproofing) all work well. The lining does not have to match the bag color or pattern.
How do I keep the lining from shifting inside the bag after it is sewn?
Pin the lining to the bag frequently before you sew—every inch or two around the top edge. Sew slowly and check that the lining is not bunching as you go. Some bag makers also tack the lining to the side seams of the bag with a few hand stitches to keep it from moving.