The Basic Process: Attach the Lining to the Dress Fabric
A dress lining is sewn in by first pinning the lining to the inside of the dress fabric with right sides facing each other, then stitching them together along the neckline, armholes, and any openings. The lining and dress are then turned right-side out through an opening (usually at a side seam or the hem), and that opening is hand-stitched closed. The key is that the lining and dress stay as two separate layers—you are not quilting them together—so they can move independently as you wear the dress.
The process works the same whether your dress has sleeves, is sleeveless, or has a low back. The steps change slightly depending on whether your dress has a zipper, buttons, or a straightforward pullover neckline, but the core method remains: stitch the two layers together at the openings, turn, and close the gap.
Key Takeaways
- Pin the lining to the dress with right sides together, then stitch along the neckline, armholes, and any other openings before turning the dress right-side out.
- Leave one opening (usually a 4- to 6-inch gap in a side seam) unstitched so you can turn the dress and lining through it.
- After turning, press the seams flat, then hand-stitch the opening closed using a ladder stitch or whip stitch.
- If your dress has a zipper, install it in the dress fabric before you attach the lining, then stitch the lining around the zipper opening carefully.
- Tack the lining to the dress at the side seams and underarms with a few hand stitches so the lining does not shift during wear.
Prepare Your Lining and Dress Pieces
Cut your lining from the same pattern pieces as your dress, but trim it about half an inch shorter at the hem. This prevents the lining from showing below the dress hem and from pulling the dress down as you move. If your dress has a facing (a reinforcement strip at the neckline or armhole), you do not need to cut a separate lining facing—the dress facing will cover the lining edge.
Sew the lining pieces together using the same seams as the dress: side seams, shoulder seams, and any darts or pleats. Press all seams open as you go. Do not attach the lining to the dress yet. At this stage, you should have a complete lining garment and a complete dress garment, both still inside-out or flat.
If your dress has a zipper, install it in the dress fabric now, before the lining goes in. Stitch the zipper to the dress seam allowances only, not through to the outside of the dress. This way, when you attach the lining later, you will stitch around the zipper opening without catching the zipper tape itself.
Pin and Stitch the Lining to the Dress at the Openings
Turn the dress right-side out. Keep the lining inside-out. Slip the dress inside the lining so the two are nested together, with right sides facing each other. The wrong side of the dress fabric is now touching the wrong side of the lining fabric. Pin around the neckline, armholes, and any other openings (such as a back vent or front placket opening). Leave a 4- to 6-inch gap in one side seam unstitched—this is your turning hole.
Stitch along the neckline and armholes using a 5/8-inch seam allowance, the same width you used for the dress seams. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam. If your dress has a zipper, stitch carefully around the zipper opening, stopping and starting as needed so you do not catch the zipper slider. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch and clip into the curves (at the neckline and armholes) so the seams lie flat when turned.
Turn the Dress Right-Side Out Through the Opening
Reach through the unstitched gap in the side seam and grab the dress hem from inside the lining. Pull the entire dress through the opening, turning it right-side out as you go. This takes patience—work slowly and make sure you are not snagging threads. Once the dress is turned, the lining will be on the inside where it belongs, and both layers will be right-side out.
Press the neckline and armhole seams from the outside of the dress using a pressing ham or a rolled towel under the seams. This helps the seams sit flat and crisp. Press gently—you are not trying to flatten the seam, just set it in place.
Close the Turning Hole with a Ladder Stitch
Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by 5/8 inch (the same seam allowance width) and press them flat. Pin the opening closed. Thread a needle with thread that matches the dress fabric and knot the end.
Use a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch or invisible stitch) to close the opening. Bring the needle out through the fold of the dress fabric, then cross directly into the fold of the lining fabric and run the needle inside the fold for about 1/4 inch. Come back out and cross into the dress fold again, running the needle inside for 1/4 inch. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire opening. The thread runs inside the folds, so it does not show on the outside. Pull the thread snug every few stitches so the opening closes neatly, but not so tight that you pucker the fabric.
Tack the Lining to the Dress at Key Points
The lining and dress are now sewn together at the neckline and armholes, but the rest of the lining is loose inside the dress. To keep the lining from shifting during wear, tack it to the dress at the side seams and underarms with a few hand stitches. Use thread that matches the lining fabric so the stitches do not show.
At each side seam, make a small stitch (about 1/8 inch long) through both the lining and the dress seam allowance, then knot off. Do the same at the underarm area where the armhole seam meets the side seam. These tacks prevent the lining from bunching or sliding around inside the dress, but they are loose enough that the lining can still move slightly as you move.
Hem the Dress and Lining Separately
The dress hem and lining hem are not sewn together. Hem the dress first using your preferred method—a machine stitch, a hand stitch, or a blind hem. Then fold up the lining hem separately, making it about 1/2 inch shorter than the dress hem so it does not show below the dress. Hand-stitch the lining hem in place using a whip stitch or ladder stitch.
If your dress has a slit or vent at the hem, fold the lining hem up and around the vent opening, then stitch it closed so the lining does not fray or catch on anything.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I machine-stitch the turning hole closed instead of hand-stitching it?
You can, but a hand-stitched ladder stitch is nearly invisible and looks more professional. If you machine-stitch, use a thread color that matches the dress and stitch very close to the fold so the stitching line is as small as possible. A ladder stitch takes about five extra minutes and is worth the effort.
What if I do not have a facing at the neckline—how do I attach the lining?
If your dress has a straightforward neckline with no facing, cut a bias strip about 1 inch wide from your lining fabric and sew it to the neckline of the dress before you attach the main lining. This facing covers the raw edge of the dress and gives the lining something to stitch to. Fold the bias strip to the inside and press it flat before you pin the lining in place.
Do I need to tack the lining at the hem?
No. The lining hem is separate from the dress hem, so they do not need to be tacked together. Tacking at the side seams and underarms is enough to keep the lining stable. If you tack at the hem, the lining cannot move freely and may pull or wrinkle as you walk.
What if my dress has sleeves—does the lining go into the sleeves?
No. The lining stops at the armhole. The sleeves are lined separately if they need lining, or they are left unlined. Attach the lining to the dress at the armhole opening, then sew the sleeves to the dress over the top of the lining seam. The lining seam will be hidden under the sleeve.
Can I attach the lining by machine all the way around, including the hem?
You can, but it is not traditional and can look stiff. Machine-stitching the lining to the dress hem traps both layers together, which prevents the lining from moving and can cause wrinkles or pulling. Hemming them separately gives the dress more drape and comfort.