What you need to start sewing a tote bag

A basic tote bag is a rectangle of fabric folded in half, sewn on three sides, and fitted with handles. You can make one with a sewing machine in about an hour, or by hand in two to three hours. The only tools you actually need are fabric, thread, a needle (or a machine), scissors, and a way to mark where you're sewing—a pencil works fine.

For fabric, choose something sturdy: cotton canvas, denim, or heavy cotton quilting fabric all work well. Thin fabric like cotton voile will tear under the weight of groceries. You'll need two pieces of fabric roughly 16 inches wide by 20 inches tall for a medium bag—that's the finished size before you account for seams. For handles, you can use two strips of the same fabric, or buy pre-made webbing handles from a fabric store.

Thread color doesn't have to match your fabric exactly, but it should be close enough that you won't notice it from a distance. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton thread and works in both hand-sewing and machines. A needle for hand-sewing should be medium-sized—a size 7 or 8 works for most fabric weights. If you're using a machine, use the needle that came with it or a universal needle in size 80/12.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two rectangles of sturdy fabric (16 by 20 inches each), mark a half-inch seam allowance on all sides, and sew three sides closed, leaving the top open.
  • Attach handles by sewing them to the inside of the bag at the top corners, so the seams are hidden when you turn the bag right-side out.
  • Hand-sewing takes longer but requires no equipment beyond a needle and thread; machine-sewing is faster and creates stronger seams.
  • The most common mistake is sewing the handles to the outside of the fabric before turning the bag right-side out, which leaves visible stitching.

Cutting and marking your fabric pieces

Lay both pieces of fabric flat on a clean surface. Using a ruler and a pencil or fabric marker, draw a line half an inch from each edge on the wrong side (the side that will be hidden inside the bag). This half-inch space is your seam allowance—the area where your stitches will go. You don't sew on the pencil line itself; you sew just inside it, so the pencil marks disappear when you're done.

Mark the top edge of each piece clearly so you know which edge stays open. You'll sew the bottom and both sides, but leave the top open so you can turn the bag right-side out and insert the handles. If you're using a sewing machine, you can skip the pencil marks and just use the edge of the presser foot as a guide—most presser feet are exactly half an inch wide.

Sewing the bag body by machine

Place the two fabric pieces with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin or hold them together so they don't shift. Set your machine to a straight stitch with medium tension and a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Start at one bottom corner and sew along the bottom edge, keeping the fabric edge aligned with the half-inch mark on your machine's throat plate (the metal plate under the needle).

When you reach the next corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing up the side. Repeat at each corner. Stop sewing when you reach the top edge—do not sew the top closed. Backstitch (sew backward) for three or four stitches at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread so it doesn't unravel.

Trim the corners diagonally, cutting away the fabric triangle at each corner without cutting through your stitches. This step, called clipping corners, lets the corners lie flat when you turn the bag right-side out instead of bunching up. Leave about a quarter inch of fabric beyond your seam.

Sewing the bag body by hand

Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Place the two fabric pieces with right sides together and pin them. Starting at one bottom corner, push the needle through both layers from the inside, so the knot stays hidden between the layers. Bring the needle back out a quarter inch away, then push it back in at the point where it came out, creating a small stitch.

Continue this running stitch along the bottom edge, keeping your stitches as even as possible—roughly a quarter inch long. When you reach a corner, make two stitches at the corner point to reinforce it, then turn and continue up the side. Stop when you reach the top edge. Tie off your thread by making a small loop, passing the needle through it, and pulling tight.

Trim the corners as you would for a machine-sewn bag. Hand-sewn seams are slightly less strong than machine seams, so take your time and keep your stitches small and tight.

Attaching handles and turning the bag right-side out

Cut two handle strips from fabric, each about 3 inches wide and 24 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, and sew along the long edge to create a tube. Turn the tube right-side out by pushing one end through from the inside—this takes patience but works. Press the tube flat with an iron or by running your fingers along it repeatedly.

Alternatively, buy pre-made webbing handles and skip the sewing step. Position one handle on the inside of the bag at one top corner, with the raw ends of the handle pointing downward into the bag. Pin it in place. Sew the handle to the bag by stitching a small rectangle around the base of the handle—sew a box shape about 2 inches by 1 inch. This distributes the weight and prevents the handle from tearing free. Repeat with the second handle at the other top corner.

Now turn the entire bag right-side out by reaching in through the open top and pulling the bottom corner toward you. The bag will turn inside-out as you pull. Once it's right-side out, the handles will be on the outside and the seams will be hidden on the inside. Press the bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the top edges.

Finishing the top edge

The top edge is currently raw fabric that will fray with use. Fold the raw edge inward by half an inch all the way around the opening, and press it flat with an iron. Pin the fold in place. Sew around the top edge by machine or by hand, staying close to the fold—about a quarter inch from the edge. This seam is called a topstitch and serves both to seal the edge and to hold the fold in place.

If you're sewing by hand, use a running stitch as before. If you're using a machine, use a straight stitch and sew slowly so you can keep the line even. When you reach the point where you started, overlap your stitches by about an inch and tie off.

Reinforcing stress points

The corners where the handles attach will take the most weight. If you want the bag to last longer, sew an X shape over the rectangle you already stitched at each handle base. This spreads the force across a wider area and prevents the handle from pulling through the fabric. You can do this by machine or by hand—it takes only a minute per handle.

The bottom corners also benefit from reinforcement. Sew a small triangle or box at each bottom corner on the inside of the bag. This prevents the corner seams from splitting when the bag is full and heavy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a tote bag without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand-sewing takes longer—usually two to three hours instead of one—but the process is identical. Use a running stitch throughout, keep your stitches small and tight, and reinforce corners and handle attachment points with extra stitches. The finished bag will be just as usable.

What fabric should I use if I want a waterproof bag?

Canvas and denim are water-resistant but not waterproof. For true waterproofing, use laminated cotton (cotton with a plastic coating) or oilcloth. Both sew like regular fabric but shed water. Laminated cotton is easier to find at fabric stores and comes in many colors.

How do I make the handles longer or shorter?

Cut your handle strips to whatever length you need before sewing them into tubes. A 20-inch finished handle (before folding and sewing) creates a bag you can carry in your hand or over your forearm. A 28-inch handle lets you wear it over your shoulder. Add an extra inch to your measurement to account for the seam.

What if my stitches are uneven or messy-looking?

Uneven stitches on the inside don't matter—nobody sees them. If the outside topstitch looks rough, you can cover it by sewing a decorative trim or ribbon along the top edge. This also reinforces the seam and adds style.

Can I add a pocket to the inside?

Yes. Cut a rectangle of fabric about 8 by 10 inches, fold the top edge down by half an inch and sew it, then pin the pocket to the inside of one of your main fabric pieces before you sew the bag together. Sew around three sides of the pocket, leaving the top open. The pocket will be sewn into the bag seam automatically.