Sewing a lining means attaching a fabric layer inside your tote to hide seams, add structure, and create pockets

A lining is a second layer of fabric sewn to the inside of your tote bag. It covers the raw seams and thread knots on the interior, gives the bag a finished look, and lets you add interior pockets for keys or a phone. The lining fabric is usually lighter than the outer fabric—cotton quilting fabric, cotton sateen, or linen work well. You sew the lining to the bag opening (the top edge) by hand or machine, then fold it down inside so it stays hidden when the bag is worn.

This is a beginner-friendly technique that takes about 30 to 45 minutes once you have cut your lining pieces. You will need a needle and thread, scissors, pins, and a sewing machine or needle for hand-sewing. The key is measuring your lining to match your finished bag exactly, then sewing it to the top edge with a seam allowance of about 1/2 inch.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your lining fabric to the same width and height as your finished tote bag exterior, then sew the lining pieces together along the sides and bottom using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  • Press the lining seams flat with an iron, then insert the lining into the bag with wrong sides facing out and pin the top edges together all the way around.
  • Sew the lining to the bag opening with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, using a machine or a ladder stitch by hand, then fold the lining down inside the bag so the seam sits just below the top edge.
  • Topstitch around the top edge of the bag 1/4 inch down from the seam to hold the lining in place and create a professional finish.

Measure and cut your lining fabric

Measure your finished tote bag from the bottom seam to the top opening on the outside. Write down the height. Measure the width at the widest point. Add 1 inch to both measurements to account for seam allowances—this is the size of each lining piece you will cut.

If your tote has a flat bottom and two side panels (the most common construction), you will cut three pieces: one for the bottom and two for the sides. If your tote is a straightforward rectangle with no gusset, you will cut two pieces. Lay your lining fabric on a flat surface, use a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk to mark the pieces, then cut them out with sharp fabric scissors. Cut straight lines and square corners—uneven edges will show when the lining is sewn in.

Sew the lining pieces together

Place two lining pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along one edge, then sew with a 1/2-inch seam allowance using a sewing machine set to a straight stitch, or use a needle and thread for hand-sewing. Sew slowly and keep the seam line straight. When you reach the end, backstitch three or four times to lock the thread.

Repeat this step to attach all lining pieces until you have one lining "bag" that matches the shape of your outer tote. Press all seams flat with a warm iron on the wrong side (the inside) of the fabric. This makes the seams lie smooth and makes the next steps easier. Trim any loose threads with scissors.

Insert the lining into the tote and pin the top edge

Turn your outer tote bag inside out so the wrong side faces outward. Keep the lining right-side out (pretty side facing in). Slide the lining into the tote bag so it sits inside like a smaller bag within the larger one. The bottom of the lining should sit near the bottom of the tote, and the top edges of the lining and tote should line up all the way around.

Pin the top edge of the lining to the top edge of the tote bag every 2 to 3 inches all the way around. Make sure the lining is not twisted and sits flat against the inside of the bag. Check that the corners are pinned evenly. This pinning step takes a few minutes but prevents puckering and bunching when you sew.

Sew the lining to the bag opening

With the tote still inside out and the lining pinned in place, sew around the top edge using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. You can use a sewing machine—set it to a straight stitch and sew slowly, removing pins as you approach them. Or sew by hand using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which creates a seam that is harder to see from the outside.

For a machine seam, start at a side seam of the tote and sew all the way around, backstitching at the start and end. For a hand ladder stitch, thread a needle, knot the end, and bring the needle up through the fold of fabric at the top edge of the tote. Push the needle across to the lining edge, go through the fold of the lining, then come back across to the tote side. Repeat this zigzag motion all the way around. This stitch is slower but creates a nearly invisible seam on the outside of the bag.

Turn the bag right-side out and press the top edge

Once the lining is sewn to the top edge, reach into the tote and pull it right-side out through the opening. The lining will now be on the inside of the bag, and the seam you just sewed will sit at the very top edge. Gently push the lining down so it sits flat against the inside walls of the tote. The seam should be just below the top edge, not visible from the outside.

Use your fingers or a wooden point (a tool shaped like a blunt pencil) to push the lining into the corners and along the sides so it lies smooth. Press the top edge with an iron on a low setting to flatten the seam and set the fold. This makes the bag look polished and professional.

Topstitch the top edge for a finished look

Topstitching means sewing a visible line of stitches on the outside of the fabric, usually 1/4 inch down from a seam. This holds the lining in place and creates a clean, tailored finish. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch and thread it with thread that matches your outer tote fabric. Sew around the top edge of the bag, 1/4 inch down from the top, going slowly and keeping the line straight.

Start and end at a side seam so the knot is hidden. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread. This final seam takes about 5 to 10 minutes and makes a big difference in how finished the bag looks. If you prefer not to topstitch, you can skip this step—the lining will still be find from the seam you sewed earlier.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is cutting the lining too large or too small. If the lining is too big, it will bunch up inside the bag and create wrinkles. If it is too small, it will not reach the top edge and will gap away from the sides. Measure twice and cut once. Another mistake is sewing the lining pieces with the wrong sides together instead of right sides together—this creates a seam on the outside of the lining, which will show inside your finished bag. Check before you sew.

Twisting the lining as you insert it into the tote is also straightforward to do. Take your time pinning and make sure the lining sits flat and straight before you sew. If you do twist it, you can carefully cut the seam with a seam ripper, unpin, straighten the lining, and re-sew. Finally, do not skip pressing the seams flat with an iron. Pressed seams lie smooth and make the bag look professional, while unpressed seams create visible bumps inside the bag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to the lining?

Yes. Before you insert the lining into the tote, sew a pocket to one or both lining pieces. Cut a rectangle of fabric about 6 inches wide by 8 inches tall, fold the top edge down 1/2 inch and press it, then pin the pocket to the lining piece and sew three sides (leaving the top open). Insert the lining as usual, and the pocket will be hidden inside the bag.

What if my tote bag has handles attached at the top edge?

Pin and sew the lining to the top edge between the handles, not over them. The handles will sit on top of the seam you create. When you fold the lining down inside the bag, it will sit below the handles and will not interfere with them.

Do I have to use a sewing machine, or can I sew the lining by hand?

You can sew entirely by hand using a needle and thread. A hand ladder stitch is actually easier to control than a machine for this step because you can see exactly where the needle goes. It takes longer—about 45 minutes to an hour—but the result is just as strong and often looks neater.

What fabric weight works best for a lining?

Cotton quilting fabric, cotton sateen, and lightweight linen are all good choices. Avoid very thin fabrics like voile or very heavy fabrics like canvas, which can bunch or create stiff seams. The lining should be softer and lighter than your outer tote fabric so it drapes smoothly inside.

Can I add a lining to a tote bag that is already finished?

Yes, but it is more difficult. You will need to carefully cut open the top seam of the bag, insert and pin the lining, then sew it in place. This requires a seam ripper and patience. It is much easier to add a lining before the bag is fully assembled, so plan ahead if you are making a tote from scratch.