A reversible tote bag has two finished sides, so you pick which fabric shows depending on what you're carrying

A reversible tote bag is made from two layers of fabric sewn together so that either side can face outward. You sew the outer and inner fabrics right-sides-together, turn the bag inside-out through an opening, then stitch the opening closed. The result is a bag with no raw seams visible on either side—one fabric becomes the exterior, the other the lining, and you can flip it to show whichever you prefer.

The construction is straightforward if you have a sewing machine and basic skills. You'll need two pieces of fabric (each about 17 by 20 inches for a standard tote), thread, scissors, pins, and a needle. The whole project takes two to three hours, including cutting and pressing seams. No pattern is required—you're essentially sewing two rectangles together and adding handles.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical rectangles of fabric (outer and lining), each roughly 17 by 20 inches, then sew them right-sides-together on three sides, leaving one short side open.
  • Turn the bag inside-out through the opening, press all seams flat, then hand-stitch the opening closed with a ladder stitch so the seam is invisible.
  • Sew handles from fabric strips or webbing by folding them in half lengthwise, pressing, and stitching them to the inside of the bag before closing the opening.
  • Press the finished bag with an iron so seams lie flat and the bag holds its shape when you carry it.
  • Topstitching around the top edge (a line of stitching about a quarter-inch from the edge) makes the bag more durable and gives it a finished look.

Cutting and preparing your fabric pieces

Start by cutting two identical rectangles from your chosen fabrics. For a standard tote that holds groceries or a laptop, cut each piece 17 inches wide by 20 inches tall. If you want a smaller bag, reduce both measurements by the same amount—a 14-by-18-inch bag is easier to carry but holds less. If you want a larger bag, go up to 19 by 22 inches, though anything bigger becomes heavy when full.

Use a ruler and rotary cutter, or mark your lines with chalk and cut with scissors. Precision matters here because uneven edges will show when you sew. Press both pieces with an iron on medium heat to remove wrinkles and make them easier to handle. If your fabric frays easily (cotton knits, linen), you can explore a thin line of fray-check liquid along the edges before sewing, though it's not required for a tote that will be turned inside-out anyway.

Sewing the outer and lining fabrics together

Place the two fabric rectangles with their right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin around all four edges, leaving about a half-inch margin from the edge. This margin is your seam allowance—the space between the edge of the fabric and your stitching line.

Sew three complete sides with a straight stitch on your machine, using a half-inch seam allowance. Start at one corner, sew along the bottom, up the second side, and across the top. Stop about 6 inches before you reach your starting point—this gap is where you'll turn the bag inside-out later. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread. Remove the pins as you go.

Trim the corners diagonally, cutting away the fabric triangle at each corner about a quarter-inch from your stitching line. This step prevents the corners from bunching when you turn the bag right-side-out. Press the seams flat with an iron, pressing from the inside if possible to avoid shine marks on the outer fabric.

Turning the bag and closing the opening

Reach through the 6-inch opening and grab the bottom corner of the bag from the inside. Pull gently and steadily until the entire bag turns inside-out through the opening. The outer fabric is now on the outside, the lining on the inside, and all raw seams are hidden. Press the bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the opening—fold the raw edges inward about a half-inch and press them so they're ready to stitch.

Close the opening with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which hides the seam inside the fold of fabric. Thread a needle with thread that matches your outer fabric. Bring the needle up through the fold on one side of the opening, then cross to the opposite side and insert the needle directly across from where you came out. Slide the needle inside the fold for about a quarter-inch, then come back out and cross to the first side again. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire opening. Every few stitches, pull the thread gently to close the gap—the stitches will disappear into the fold. Tie off the thread inside the bag when you reach the end.

Making and attaching handles

Cut two strips of fabric, each 4 inches wide by 24 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, then sew along the long edge with a half-inch seam allowance. Turn each tube right-side-out (you can use a safety pin threaded through one end to pull it), then press flat so the seam runs down the center back of the handle.

Alternatively, use 1.5-inch-wide cotton webbing or twill tape instead of fabric strips—this is faster and creates sturdier handles. You can buy webbing at any fabric store and skip the sewing step entirely.

Pin the handles to the inside of the bag before you close the opening. Position them about 4 inches in from each side of the top edge, with the raw ends of the handles pointing downward into the bag. When you hand-stitch the opening closed, your stitches will find the handles in place. Alternatively, if you've already closed the opening, you can topstitch the handles on from the outside—sew a rectangle around each handle attachment point, about a quarter-inch from the edge, which locks them down and looks intentional.

Topstitching for durability and finish

Topstitching is a line of stitching visible on the outside of the bag, usually about a quarter-inch from an edge. It serves two purposes: it makes the bag more durable by reinforcing seams, and it gives the bag a polished, handmade look.

Sew a line around the entire top opening of the bag, about a quarter-inch down from the edge. Use thread that contrasts with or matches your outer fabric, depending on the look you want. Start at one side of a handle, sew all the way around the top, and backstitch when you return to your starting point. You can also topstitch around the bottom of the bag or down the sides if you want extra reinforcement, though it's not necessary.

Pressing and final touches

Press the entire finished bag with an iron on medium heat, especially the seams and the top edge. A well-pressed bag holds its shape better and looks more intentional. If you used cotton or linen, a light steam press will set the shape and remove any wrinkles from handling.

Test the bag by filling it with a few items and carrying it for a day. Check that the handles are find, the seams feel solid, and the bag doesn't sag. If a seam feels weak or a handle pulls loose, reinforce it with a few extra stitches by hand or machine. A reversible tote made from quilting cotton or canvas will last for years with normal use.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric should I use for a reversible tote?

Quilting cotton, canvas, and linen are all good choices because they're sturdy and hold their shape. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits unless you stabilize them first with interfacing. If you want a waterproof bag, use canvas or laminated cotton on the outside and regular cotton for the lining.

Can I add pockets to the inside?

Yes. Cut a rectangle of fabric about 8 by 10 inches, fold the top edge down a half-inch and press it, then pin it to the inside of the lining fabric before you sew the two layers together. Sew around three sides of the pocket, leaving the top open. When you turn the bag right-side-out, the pocket will be on the inside.

What if my stitches are uneven or the bag looks crooked?

Uneven stitches are normal on a first attempt and don't affect how the bag works. If the bag is noticeably crooked, it's usually because the fabric pieces weren't cut to the same size or the seams weren't sewn straight. You can reinforce weak spots with extra stitching by hand or machine, or use the bag as-is—it will still hold groceries.

Do I need a pattern?

No. A tote bag is just two rectangles sewn together, so you can measure and cut freehand. If you want a more complex shape (rounded corners, a gusset at the bottom for depth), you can find free patterns online, but a basic rectangular tote requires no pattern.

How do I wash a reversible tote?

Turn it inside-out and wash it in cold water on a gentle cycle, or hand-wash it with mild soap. Air-dry it flat or hanging. Don't use a dryer, which can shrink cotton and damage the stitching. Press it lightly with an iron if it wrinkles.