A flat bottom tote holds its shape and stands upright on a table
A flat bottom tote is made by sewing a rectangular gusset—a strip of fabric—into the corners where the sides meet the base. This creates a box-like structure that lets the bag stand on its own instead of collapsing when you set it down. The flat bottom is what separates a tote that looks intentional from one that looks like a crumpled pillowcase.
The construction is straightforward: you cut two large rectangles for the front and back, two narrower rectangles for the sides, and one long rectangle for the bottom. You sew these five pieces together in a specific order, then add handles. The whole project takes three to four hours for a beginner and uses only a straight stitch.
Key Takeaways
- Cut five fabric pieces: two large rectangles (front and back), two smaller rectangles (sides), and one long rectangle (bottom), with seam allowances included.
- Sew the bottom piece to the front and back first, then attach the side pieces, so the corners form clean right angles.
- Use a half-inch seam allowance throughout and backstitch at the start and end of every seam to prevent unraveling.
- Fold the top edge down by half an inch and sew it closed to finish the raw edge before attaching handles.
- Sew handles to the inside of the bag at the side seams, where the stress is distributed evenly across the structure.
Measure and cut your fabric pieces
Start with five pieces of fabric. For a standard tote 12 inches wide, 10 inches tall, and 4 inches deep, cut these dimensions (all measurements include a half-inch seam allowance on all sides):
| Piece | Width | Height | Quantity |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front and back | 13 inches | 11 inches | 2 pieces |
| Sides | 5 inches | 11 inches | 2 pieces |
| Bottom | 13 inches | 5 inches | 1 piece |
Adjust these numbers based on the finished size you want. The width of the bottom piece should match the width of the front and back pieces. The height of the side pieces should match the height of the front and back pieces. The width of the side pieces should be twice the finished depth of your bag (in this case, 4 inches finished = 5 inches cut, accounting for seam allowances).
Use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut straight edges. Mark the seam allowance with a pencil or fabric pen if it helps you stay on track while sewing. Press all pieces flat with an iron before you begin sewing.
Sew the bottom to the front and back
Place the front piece and the bottom piece with right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Align the bottom edge of the front piece with the long edge of the bottom piece. Pin along this seam every two inches to keep the fabric from shifting.
Sew along this pinned edge using a straight stitch with a half-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end—sew forward three stitches, then backward three stitches, then forward again. This locks the thread so it will not unravel. Remove pins as you go. When you reach the end, press the seam flat with an iron, then press it to one side (toward the bottom piece).
Repeat this step with the back piece: pin the bottom piece to the back piece, sew with a half-inch seam allowance, backstitch, and press. Now you have a U-shape: the bottom piece is sewn to both the front and back, and the back and front pieces are still separate at the sides.
Attach the side pieces to complete the box
Open up your U-shaped assembly so it lies flat. You will now sew the side pieces to the exposed long edges of the front and back pieces. Take one side piece and pin it to the right edge of the front piece, right sides together. The top edges should align. Sew this seam with a half-inch allowance, backstitch, and press.
Pin and sew the same side piece to the right edge of the back piece. When you finish, the side piece will be sewn to both the front and back, forming a corner. Repeat this entire step with the second side piece on the left side of the bag.
At this point, the only unsewn seam is where the two side pieces meet the bottom piece at the corners. Turn the bag inside out and inspect these corners. They should form clean right angles. If any seams are puckered or twisted, you can carefully pick out a few stitches with a seam ripper and re-sew that section.
Finish the top edge and turn the bag right-side out
With the bag still inside out, fold the top raw edge down by half an inch all the way around. Press this fold flat with an iron. Sew along this fold using a straight stitch, staying close to the edge (about one-eighth inch from the fold). This seam is called a topstitch and it finishes the raw edge so it will not fray when you wash the bag.
Turn the bag right-side out through the opening at the top. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a pencil to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Press the entire bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the top edge and the corners.
Sew on the handles
Cut two strips of fabric for the handles, each 4 inches wide and 20 inches long (adjust length based on how long you want the handles). Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along the long edge with a half-inch seam allowance. Turn the handle right-side out and press flat so the seam runs down the center of the back.
Pin the handles to the inside of the bag at the side seams. Position each handle so the top of the handle is about one-quarter inch below the top edge of the bag. The handles should be roughly 4 inches apart (measure from the center of one handle to the center of the other). Sew the handles in place by sewing a small rectangle at the top of each handle, then sewing an X inside that rectangle. This distributes the weight and prevents the handles from tearing away.
If you prefer handles on the outside, pin them to the outside of the bag before turning it right-side out, and sew them in place after the bag is finished. Either method works; outside handles are more visible, and inside handles look cleaner.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most common error is using a seam allowance that is too wide or too narrow. If your seam allowance is inconsistent, the corners will not line up and the bag will look lopsided. Use a seam guide on your machine (most machines have markings on the throat plate) or tape a piece of painter's tape on the machine bed to mark where the half-inch line is. Run the edge of the fabric along this guide as you sew.
Another frequent problem is sewing the side pieces in the wrong order. If you sew the sides to the bottom first, the corners will be very difficult to sew neatly. Always sew the bottom to the front and back first, then attach the sides. This order ensures that the corners form clean right angles.
Do not skip the topstitch at the top edge. It looks like a small detail, but it prevents the raw edge from fraying and makes the bag look finished and intentional. It also reinforces the top edge, which takes the most stress when you carry the bag.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric should I use for a tote bag?
Cotton canvas, heavyweight cotton, or linen work best because they hold their shape and wear well. Avoid thin fabrics like quilting cotton unless you plan to interface (reinforce) the pieces first. If you want a softer bag, use a medium-weight cotton blend, but expect it to slouch slightly over time.
Do I need to interface the fabric?
Interfacing is optional but recommended. It adds structure and helps the bag hold its shape longer. Use a medium-weight fusible interfacing on the front, back, and bottom pieces. Fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric before you cut your pieces, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Can I make the bag larger or smaller?
Yes. Scale all five pieces proportionally. If you want a bag twice as large, double the width and height of each piece. Remember to keep the seam allowance at half an inch—do not scale that. The depth (the width of the side pieces) can stay the same or change depending on how boxy you want the finished bag to look.
What if my corners are not square?
Square corners usually mean your seam allowance was inconsistent or you did not sew the pieces in the correct order. If the corners are slightly off, you can trim them with pinking shears to make them look intentional. If they are very crooked, pick out the seams at the corners and re-sew them, measuring carefully.
How do I add a lining to the tote?
Make a second, identical bag from lining fabric (cotton or a cotton blend works well). Sew it together the same way, but do not turn it right-side out. Instead, slip the lining bag inside the finished tote, right sides together, and sew around the top edge. Turn the whole thing right-side out through a small opening in the lining, then sew the opening closed by hand using a ladder stitch.