What You Need Before You Start

A lined tote bag requires two layers of fabric sewn together, which gives the bag structure and hides the seams on the inside. You will need two pieces of outer fabric (canvas, cotton, or denim work well), two pieces of lining fabric (cotton or quilting cotton), thread that matches or blends with your fabric, a sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. Most people also use an iron to press seams flat as they work, which makes the final bag look neater.

The outer fabric should be sturdy enough to hold weight without stretching. Lining fabric can be lighter and is usually chosen for appearance rather than strength. If you are new to sewing, start with a straightforward rectangular tote without pockets or zippers — those come later once you understand how the basic lining works.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut four rectangles of fabric — two for the outer bag and two for the lining — all the same size.
  • Sew the outer pieces together on three sides, leaving the top open, then sew the lining pieces the same way.
  • Slip the lining inside the outer bag so the right sides face each other, then sew around the top opening to join them.
  • Turn the whole bag right-side out through a small gap in the lining, then stitch the gap closed by hand.
  • Press the top edge flat and add handles sewn to both the outer fabric and the lining for strength.

Cutting Your Fabric to the Right Size

Measure and cut four identical rectangles. A standard tote is about 14 inches wide and 12 inches tall, but you can make yours larger or smaller depending on what you want to carry. Add a half-inch seam allowance on all sides — so if you want a finished bag that is 14 by 12 inches, cut each rectangle 15 by 13 inches.

Label your pieces as you cut: mark two as "outer" and two as "lining." Use a ruler and a fabric marker or chalk to draw your lines before cutting, so the edges are straight. Crooked edges make the seams harder to sew and the finished bag look uneven.

Sewing the Outer Bag Shell

Place your two outer fabric pieces with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching, the wrong sides facing out). Pin along three sides, leaving the top edge unpinned. Sew a straight line a half-inch from the edge on the three pinned sides, using a medium stitch length.

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot, and continue sewing. This keeps the corner sharp. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Once all three sides are sewn, trim the corners at a 45-degree angle about a quarter-inch from the stitching — this reduces bulk when you turn the bag right-side out.

Sewing the Lining the Same Way

Repeat the exact process with your two lining pieces: place them right sides together, pin three sides, and sew a half-inch seam. Trim the corners the same way. The only difference is that you will leave a 3-inch gap in one of the seams on the lining — do not sew all the way across. This gap is how you will turn the bag right-side out later, so leave it in a spot that is straightforward to reach, usually along the bottom or one of the sides.

Backstitch before and after the gap to keep the rest of the seam find. The gap does not need to be perfectly centered; it just needs to be big enough to fit your hand through.

Joining the Lining to the Outer Bag

Slip the lining inside the outer bag so the two pieces are nested together, with right sides facing each other. The seams of the outer bag and the seams of the lining should line up as much as possible. Pin around the top opening, matching the side seams of the outer bag to the side seams of the lining.

Sew a straight line a half-inch from the top edge all the way around, backstitching at the start and end. This seam joins the lining to the outer bag permanently. Trim the seam allowance to a quarter-inch to reduce bulk, then clip small notches around the curve of the top edge (if your bag has curved corners) so the fabric will lie flat when turned right-side out.

Turning the Bag Right-Side Out

Reach through the 3-inch gap you left in the lining and grab the outer bag from the inside. Pull the outer bag through the gap and out through the lining. This flips everything right-side out. It takes a little patience, especially if your bag is large, but the seams will gradually come through.

Once the bag is right-side out, use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the back of a spoon to gently push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Press the top edge with an iron to make it crisp and flat.

Closing the Gap and Adding Handles

Fold the raw edges of the 3-inch gap inward a half-inch and pin them closed. Thread a needle with thread that matches the lining and sew the gap shut with a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which hides the thread inside the fold. Take small stitches and pull the thread snug every few stitches so the gap closes invisibly.

For handles, cut two strips of outer fabric about 2 inches wide and 20 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew along the long edge, and turn right-side out. Press flat. Pin the handles to the inside of the outer bag, about 4 inches from each side seam, so the raw ends sit between the outer bag and the lining. Sew the handles down with a rectangle of stitching (sew a small rectangle, then sew over it again for strength). This anchors the handles to both layers at once.

Frequently Asked Questions

What happens if I sew the lining to the outer bag without nesting them first?

The seams will be on the outside of the bag where everyone can see them, and the lining will be on the outside too. You have to nest them (right sides facing each other) so that when you turn the bag right-side out, the seams end up hidden on the inside where they belong.

Can I skip the lining and just make a single-layer tote?

Yes. A single-layer tote is faster and uses less fabric, but the seams show on the inside and the bag is less structured. A lined bag looks more finished and lasts longer because the lining protects the outer seams from wear.

What if I cannot find the gap in the lining when I try to turn the bag?

Mark the gap with a safety pin or a piece of tape before you nest the lining inside the outer bag. That way you know exactly where to reach. If you still cannot find it, feel along the bottom seam of the lining from the outside — the gap will feel softer than the stitched parts.

Do the handles have to be sewn to both the outer bag and the lining?

Sewing them to both layers makes the handles much stronger and keeps them from pulling away from the outer bag. If you sew them only to the outer fabric, they may tear loose over time, especially if the bag is used to carry heavy items.

How do I keep the corners sharp and square?

Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle before you turn the bag right-side out, then use a chopstick or the back of a spoon to push each corner out from the inside. Press with an iron once the bag is right-side out. Sharp corners take practice, so do not worry if your first bag is a little rounded.