What You Need Before You Start

A zippered tote bag is a tote with a closure at the top—the zipper keeps items from falling out. You will need fabric (canvas or cotton works well), a zipper between 16 and 20 inches long, thread that matches your fabric, a sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. Most people finish one in two to three hours once they understand the steps.

The zipper is the part that changes the sewing order. On a regular tote, you sew the sides and bottom, then attach handles. On a zippered tote, you attach the zipper to the fabric pieces before you sew the sides together. This prevents the zipper from getting caught in seams.

Gather all materials and lay them on a clean, flat surface. Cut your fabric into two rectangles about 16 inches wide and 14 inches tall—these become the front and back. Cut two strips about 3 inches wide and 20 inches long for handles. Pre-wash and dry your fabric if it is prone to shrinking.

Key Takeaways

  • Attach the zipper to the top edge of each fabric piece before sewing the sides together, using a zipper foot on your machine.
  • Sew the zipper to the right side of the fabric so the teeth face inward, then fold the fabric over the zipper tape and topstitch to find it.
  • After both fabric pieces are zipped, sew the sides and bottom seams with the zipper closed to prevent it from getting caught.
  • Fold and sew the handle strips into tubes, then stitch them to the inside of the bag at the side seams for strength.
  • Box the bottom corners by pinching and stitching across them to give the bag a flat, stable base.

Preparing Your Fabric and Zipper

Start by pressing your fabric with an iron on a medium setting to remove wrinkles. Lay one rectangle flat with the right side (the pretty side) facing up. Measure down 1 inch from the top edge and mark a light line with a pencil or fabric pen—this is where the zipper will sit.

Open your zipper fully and lay it face-down along that line, with the zipper teeth pointing toward the center of the fabric. The zipper tape (the flat woven part on either side of the teeth) should sit just below your pencil line. Pin the zipper in place along both long edges, keeping pins about 2 inches apart. Do the same with the second fabric rectangle.

Check that the zipper is straight by looking at it from above. If one end is higher than the other, remove the pins and reposition. A crooked zipper will be hard to use later.

Sewing the Zipper to the Fabric

Install a zipper foot on your sewing machine—this is a special presser foot that lets you sew close to the zipper teeth without hitting them. A regular presser foot is too wide and will jam. Most machines come with a zipper foot, or you can buy one for $10 to $15 that fits your model.

Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric. Set the stitch length to 2.5 (a medium length) and the tension to normal. Start at one end of the zipper, about 1 inch from the edge. Sew along the zipper tape in a straight line, staying about 1/4 inch away from the teeth. Go slowly—you are not in a hurry. When you reach the zipper pull, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, slide the pull out of the way, lower the presser foot, and keep sewing.

Sew all the way to the other end. Backstitch at the end to lock the thread. Now flip the fabric over so the zipper is on the back. Fold the top edge of the fabric down about 1/2 inch so it covers the zipper tape. Press this fold with your iron. Pin it in place, then topstitch (sew a line of stitching on top) about 1/4 inch from the fold. This secures the zipper and hides the tape. Repeat this entire process with the second fabric rectangle.

Sewing the Sides and Bottom

Lay both fabric rectangles on top of each other with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). The zippers should be on the outside. Make sure the top edges line up. Pin around the three remaining sides—the left, right, and bottom. Leave the top open (that is where the zipper is).

Close the zipper before you sew. This is important: if the zipper is open, the fabric can get pulled into the teeth and jam. Sew along the left side with a 1/2-inch seam allowance (the distance from the edge of the fabric to your stitching line). Use a straight stitch and medium speed. Sew down to the corner, backstitch, and stop.

Sew the bottom edge next, starting where you left off. Go slowly around the corners so your stitching stays straight. When you reach the other side, backstitch and stop. Sew the right side from bottom to top. Backstitch at the top. You now have a tube with the zipper at the top and the sides and bottom sealed.

Boxing the Bottom Corners

A flat-bottomed tote is easier to pack and looks more finished. To create this, you will "box" the bottom corners—fold them into small triangles and sew across them. Turn the bag inside out (the seams are now on the inside). Lay it flat on your table with the bottom seam running left to right in front of you.

Pinch one bottom corner so the side seam and bottom seam form an X. Flatten this into a small triangle pointing down. Measure 2 inches along the point of the triangle from the corner and mark a line with a pencil. Sew straight across this line with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at both ends. Trim the corner point off about 1/4 inch from your stitching line. Repeat on the other bottom corner.

Turn the bag right-side out through the zipper opening. Push the corners out gently with your fingers so they are square. The bottom of the bag now sits flat instead of folding into a point.

Making and Attaching the Handles

Fold one handle strip in half lengthwise with the right sides together. Sew along the long edge with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, creating a tube. Do not sew the short ends. Backstitch at both ends. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch so the tube is not bulky.

Turn the tube right-side out by pinning a safety pin to one end and threading it through. This takes a minute but is the easiest method. Once it is right-side out, press it flat with an iron so the seam runs down the center of one side. Repeat with the second handle strip.

Lay the bag flat on your table. Position one handle so the ends sit 3 inches in from each side seam, on the inside of the bag. Pin both ends in place. Sew a rectangle around each end—sew a small square about 1 inch by 1 inch, then sew an X through the middle. This distributes the weight and prevents the handle from tearing off. Repeat with the second handle on the other side of the bag.

Finishing Touches

Turn the bag right-side out and inspect your work. Check that the zipper opens and closes smoothly. If it is stiff, run a pencil along the teeth a few times—the graphite lubricates the zipper. Trim any loose threads with scissors.

If the zipper pull is plastic and feels cheap, you can replace it with a leather or metal pull from a craft store. Most pulls slide off and on. If the fabric edges inside the bag are fraying, you can seal them with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears, but this is optional for a casual tote.

Wash the finished bag in cool water and dry it flat if you want to soften the fabric. The zipper will last longer if you do not overload the bag—a tote with a zipper is not meant to hold 50 pounds of groceries.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is sewing the zipper on upside down—the teeth should face inward so they do not catch on your clothes. Check this before you start sewing. Another mistake is forgetting to close the zipper before sewing the sides; fabric gets pulled into the teeth and jams the zipper permanently. Close it every time.

Sewing too close to the zipper teeth will break your needle. Stay at least 1/4 inch away. If your stitching is wobbly, you are going too fast—slow down and let the machine do the work. If the handles tear off, you did not sew them securely enough; make sure your rectangle has an X through the middle.

If the zipper is hard to open after you finish, the fabric is probably caught in the teeth. Gently wiggle the pull back and forth while pulling the fabric away from the teeth. If this does not work, a tiny drop of graphite lubricant (from a pencil) on the teeth usually fixes it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a shorter zipper?

A zipper shorter than 14 inches will not span the width of a standard tote. You can make a smaller tote to match a shorter zipper, but you will need to cut your fabric rectangles narrower. A 12-inch zipper works for a 12-inch-wide tote.

What if my sewing machine does not have a zipper foot?

You can sew a zipper without a zipper foot, but it is harder to keep your stitching straight and you risk hitting the teeth. A zipper foot costs $10 to $20 and fits most machines. If you do not want to buy one, move your needle position as far left as possible and sew slowly along the left side of the zipper tape, then move the needle right and sew the other side.

How do I fix a zipper that gets stuck?

Stuck zippers are usually caused by fabric caught in the teeth or dried lubricant. Try wiggling the pull gently while pulling the fabric away from the teeth. If that does not work, rub a pencil along the teeth to add graphite, then try again. Do not force the pull or you will break the zipper.

Can I add a zipper to a tote bag I already made?

Yes, but it is more work. You will need to carefully cut open the top seam, insert the zipper between the two layers of fabric, and sew it in place. It is easier to build the zipper in from the start, but it is possible to retrofit one if you are patient.

What fabric works best for a zippered tote?

Canvas and heavy cotton are the most durable because they do not stretch and hold their shape. Lighter fabrics like quilting cotton work but may sag over time if you carry heavy items. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit—they are hard to sew straight and will not hold a zipper well.