What you'll sew: a flat-bottomed tote with two handles

A basic tote bag is a rectangle of fabric folded in half, sewn up the sides, and finished with two straps. You can make one in an afternoon with a sewing machine, a needle, thread, and fabric. The finished bag holds groceries, books, or gym clothes, and because you control the fabric weight and strap length, you can customize it for what you actually carry.

This guide walks you through cutting, sewing the body, attaching the straps, and finishing the seams so the bag doesn't fall apart after a few uses. No pattern is required—you'll measure and mark directly on the fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • A basic tote uses two rectangles of fabric sewn together, so you need only two measurements: the width you want and the height you want, then add half an inch on all sides for seams.
  • Straps are two strips of fabric folded lengthwise, sewn closed, and then sewn to the inside top edge of the bag before the sides are closed.
  • Sewing the bag inside-out, then turning it right-side-out, hides all the raw seams and gives the bag a finished look.
  • A sewing machine set to a straight stitch and a thread color that matches your fabric is the fastest method, though you can hand-sew if you prefer slower work.

Measure and cut your fabric

Decide how wide and how tall you want the finished bag. A common size is 14 inches wide by 16 inches tall—large enough for a week of groceries but not so large it's unwieldy. Write down those two numbers.

Add half an inch to each measurement for seam allowance. So a 14-by-16 bag becomes 15-by-17 inches. Cut two rectangles of fabric to that size. If you're using quilting cotton or canvas, one layer is enough. If you're using a thinner fabric like linen or cotton voile, cut four rectangles instead of two and layer them in pairs so the finished bag has body.

For the straps, cut two strips of fabric 4 inches wide and 24 inches long. These will fold in half lengthwise and become 2-inch-wide straps about 22 inches long after sewing—long enough to sling over your shoulder comfortably. Adjust the length if you prefer shorter or longer handles.

Sew the straps closed

Take one strap strip and fold it lengthwise with the right side of the fabric facing inward, so the wrong sides are on the outside. Press the fold with an iron or your fingers. Sew along the long edge with a straight stitch, using a quarter-inch seam allowance. You now have a tube of fabric.

Turn the tube right-side-out by pinching one end and pushing it through itself—this takes patience but works. Press the tube flat so the seam runs down the center of one side. Repeat with the second strap strip. You now have two finished straps ready to attach.

Pin the straps to one rectangle

Lay one rectangle of fabric flat with the right side facing up. This will be the front of your bag. Decide where you want the straps: usually 2 to 3 inches in from each side edge, centered on the top edge. Mark those positions lightly with a pencil or fabric pen.

Take one finished strap and position it so the raw ends line up with the top edge of the rectangle, and the strap curves downward into the bag. Pin it in place. Repeat with the second strap on the other side. The straps should be inside the bag at this stage, not hanging off the outside.

Sew the bag body inside-out

Place the second rectangle on top of the first, right sides together, so the straps are sandwiched between the two layers. Pin around all four edges. Sew around three sides with a quarter-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch. Leave one short side (the bottom) completely open—you'll use this opening to turn the bag right-side-out.

Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle, cutting close to the stitching but not through it. This reduces bulk when you turn the bag. Clip the seam allowance along the curved corners if your fabric frays easily.

Turn the bag right-side-out and close the opening

Reach into the open bottom edge and grab the top corner of the bag from the inside. Pull it out through the opening, then keep pulling until the entire bag is right-side-out. The straps are now on the outside, attached to the inside top edge. Press the bag flat with an iron, paying attention to the top edge so it's crisp.

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and press. Pin the opening closed. Sew it shut with a straight stitch, sewing as close to the fold as you can. This is called a ladder stitch or slip stitch if you're hand-sewing, but a machine stitch works fine and is faster.

Reinforce the strap attachment

The straps will take the most stress, so sew over them again to make sure they hold. Sew a rectangle around each strap where it meets the top edge of the bag—start at one corner of the strap, sew down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side, then sew an X through the middle. This distributes the weight and prevents the strap from tearing away.

If you want extra durability, sew a line around the entire top edge of the bag, about a quarter inch down from the seam. This reinforces the seam and gives the bag a finished, professional look.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a tote bag without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand-sew using a needle and thread, following the same steps. Use a backstitch for strength—push the needle through both layers, bring it back up a quarter inch ahead, then push it back through the hole you just came out of. It takes longer but produces a sturdy bag. Reinforce the strap attachment with extra passes.

What fabric works best for a tote bag?

Canvas, quilting cotton, and linen are durable and hold their shape. Avoid thin fabrics like jersey or fleece unless you layer them. If you're new to sewing, quilting cotton is forgiving and inexpensive. For a bag you'll use heavily, canvas or heavy linen lasts longer.

How do I make the bag waterproof?

After sewing, you can brush on fabric sealant or iron-on waterproof tape along the seams. Alternatively, line the inside with oilcloth or laminated cotton before sewing the bag closed. Oilcloth is stiff but sheds water completely; laminated cotton is softer and still water-resistant.

What if my strap seam is crooked or puckered?

Crooked seams don't affect function. If the seam puckers, you likely pulled the fabric too tight while sewing. Loosen your tension slightly on your next strap. If a strap is already puckered, you can press it with steam and an iron, or accept it as part of the handmade look.

Can I add a bottom gusset to make the bag wider?

Yes, but it requires a pattern. For your first tote, stick with the flat-bottomed rectangle. Once you're comfortable with the basic steps, you can research gusset construction—it's the same sewing technique, just with an extra piece of fabric sewn into the bottom corners to create depth.