What You Need Before You Start

A zippered tote bag is a sewn bag with a closed top, made from two pieces of fabric joined at the sides and bottom, with a zipper sewn into the opening. You can make one with basic sewing skills and a standard sewing machine. The process takes about two to three hours for your first attempt, depending on how familiar you are with a needle and thread.

Gather these materials: two pieces of fabric cut to 16 inches wide by 18 inches tall (or your chosen size), one zipper between 12 and 14 inches long, thread that matches your fabric or zipper, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, a ruler, pins, and a seam ripper if mistakes happen. If you are hand-sewing, a thimble protects your finger. If you are machine-sewing, you will also need a zipper foot — a special presser foot that lets the needle sit close to the zipper teeth without hitting them.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric rectangles to the same size, then pin and sew the side and bottom seams before touching the zipper.
  • The zipper goes into the top opening after the three other sides are sewn, with the zipper foot attachment on your machine keeping stitches straight and close to the teeth.
  • Sew the zipper to one fabric edge first, then fold and sew it to the opposite edge, which keeps the zipper centered and prevents puckering.
  • Reinforce the zipper ends with a few extra stitches to stop the slider from running off the teeth.
  • Turn the bag right-side out through the zipper opening, press the seams flat with an iron, and add handles if you want them.

Cutting and Preparing Your Fabric

Lay out your first piece of fabric on a flat surface. Use a ruler and a fabric marker or chalk to mark a rectangle 16 inches wide and 18 inches tall. Cut along the lines with sharp fabric scissors — dull scissors will fray the edges and make sewing harder. Repeat with the second piece of fabric so both pieces are identical.

Check that the corners are square by measuring from corner to corner — both diagonal measurements should be the same. If the fabric has a pattern or a right side and wrong side, make sure both pieces face the same direction. Pin the two pieces together with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other and the wrong sides (the dull or back sides) facing out. This is called "right sides together" and it is the standard way to sew fabric so the seams end up hidden inside the finished bag.

Sewing the Sides and Bottom

Using a sewing machine set to a medium stitch length (about 2.5 on most machines), or using a needle and thread with a running stitch if you are hand-sewing, sew along the left side of the bag. Start at the top corner and sew down to the bottom corner, keeping the seam about half an inch from the edge. Backstitch at the start and end — sew forward a few stitches, then backward over them, then forward again — to lock the thread so it does not unravel.

Sew the bottom seam next, starting at the left corner and moving across to the right corner. Then sew the right side seam from the bottom corner up to the top corner. Stop sewing when you reach the top — do not sew the top edge yet. You now have a tube of fabric with three sealed sides and one open top where the zipper will go.

Trim the seams to about a quarter inch from the stitching line using scissors or a rotary cutter. This reduces bulk and makes the bag lie flat. At the bottom corners, cut a small diagonal line from the corner of the fabric toward the seam, being careful not to cut the stitches themselves. This is called clipping the corners and it lets the corners fold flat when you turn the bag right-side out.

Installing the Zipper

Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine by loosening the presser foot screw, sliding out the regular foot, and sliding in the zipper foot. The zipper foot has a single toe on one side instead of two, which lets you sew very close to the zipper teeth without hitting them. If you are hand-sewing, you do not need a special foot — just use your regular needle and take small, even stitches.

Open the zipper and lay it face-down (teeth-side down) along the top edge of one fabric piece, with the zipper pull pointing toward the right side of the bag. The top of the zipper should line up with the top edge of the fabric. Pin the zipper tape (the flat woven part on either side of the teeth) to the fabric, keeping the pins perpendicular to the zipper so they do not get in your way while sewing.

Sew the zipper to the first fabric piece by stitching along the edge of the zipper tape closest to the teeth. Use the zipper foot and keep the needle about an eighth inch from the teeth. Sew from one end of the zipper to the other, then backstitch to find. Remove the pins as you go.

Fold the bag so the second fabric piece lines up with the zipper, with right sides still together. The zipper is now sandwiched between the two fabric pieces. Pin the second piece of fabric to the other side of the zipper tape, keeping the fabric edge aligned with the top of the zipper. Sew along this second edge the same way — close to the teeth, using the zipper foot, backstitching at the start and end.

Reinforcing the Zipper Ends

The zipper slider can sometimes run off the end of the teeth if the stitching is not strong enough. To prevent this, sew a short reinforcement line at each end of the zipper. At the left end, sew a line about a quarter inch away from the zipper stop (the metal or plastic piece at the end of the teeth), stitching across both layers of zipper tape and both pieces of fabric. Repeat at the right end.

These reinforcement stitches do not need to be long — just three or four stitches across is enough. They straightforward create a barrier that stops the slider from sliding past the end. If you are hand-sewing, make these stitches by hand as well, using the same small running stitch you used elsewhere.

Turning and Finishing the Bag

Open the zipper about halfway. This is important — if the zipper is fully closed, you will not be able to turn the bag right-side out. Reach through the zipper opening and grab the bottom seam of the bag from the inside. Pull the bag through the opening, turning it inside-out as you go. The right sides of the fabric are now facing outward, and the seams are hidden inside.

Use your fingers or a blunt tool like a chopstick to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Lay the bag flat and press it with an iron on a medium setting to flatten the seams and remove wrinkles. Pay special attention to the top edge where the zipper is — pressing here makes the bag look more finished.

If you want handles, cut two strips of fabric about 2 inches wide and 20 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew along the long edge, then turn right-side out and press flat. Pin the handles to the inside top edges of the bag, about 2 inches from each side seam. Sew them in place with a few stitches, then sew over them again to reinforce. Close the zipper and your bag is ready to use.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

If the zipper puckers or the fabric bunches around it, you sewed too far from the teeth or the fabric shifted while sewing. Use a seam ripper to remove the stitches, repin the zipper, and sew again. Take your time and keep the fabric taut as you sew — do not let it bunch up under the presser foot.

If the zipper slider gets stuck, do not force it. Open the zipper fully, explore a small amount of graphite pencil lead (not pen ink) to the teeth, and slide the slider back and forth gently. This lubricates the teeth without staining the fabric. If the slider still will not move, the zipper may be damaged and you will need to replace it.

If the seams are crooked or uneven, your stitch length may be too long or your machine tension may be off. Check your machine manual for how to adjust tension, and practice on scrap fabric before starting over. Hand-sewn seams are more forgiving — if a stitch is slightly off, it is usually not noticeable in the finished bag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a shorter or longer zipper than 12 to 14 inches?

Yes. A shorter zipper (9 to 11 inches) works on a smaller bag, and a longer one (15 to 18 inches) works on a larger bag. The zipper length should be about 2 to 4 inches shorter than the width of your fabric so the zipper tape does not extend beyond the side seams. If it does, trim the excess zipper tape with scissors before sewing.

What type of fabric is best for a beginner?

Cotton quilting fabric or canvas is easiest because it does not slip, fray much, or stretch. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey until you have more experience. Lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn or linen work but are harder to keep straight while sewing. Medium-weight cotton is the sweet spot for a first tote bag.

Do I have to use a sewing machine or can I hand-sew the whole bag?

You can hand-sew the entire bag using a needle and thread with a running stitch or backstitch. It takes longer — usually four to six hours — but the result is just as strong. Hand-sewing the zipper is actually easier for beginners because you have more control and can see exactly where the needle is going.

What should I do if I sew the zipper in upside down?

Use a seam ripper to remove all the stitches holding the zipper, then repin it with the teeth facing the right direction (toward the inside of the bag when the bag is right-side out). Sew it again. This is frustrating but not a disaster — seam rippers are made for exactly this situation.

Can I add a pocket inside the bag?

Yes. Before you sew the sides and bottom, pin a small rectangle of fabric (about 6 inches by 8 inches) to the inside of one fabric piece, with right sides together. Sew three sides of the pocket, leaving the top open. Turn it right-side out and press, then pin it to the inside of the bag before sewing the sides. The pocket will be sewn in place when you sew the side seams.