A lined tote bag keeps its shape and hides the seams inside

A lined tote bag is two bags sewn together—an outer shell and an inner lining—so the inside looks as finished as the outside. The lining protects whatever you carry, hides the raw seams, and makes the bag sturdier because the two layers reinforce each other. You sew the outer fabric and lining separately, then join them at the top opening, which is why the seams stay hidden.

This project takes about two to three hours for a beginner, depending on how comfortable you are with a sewing machine. You will need two pieces of fabric (one for the outside, one for the lining), thread, a needle or machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. The finished bag is typically 12 inches wide, 14 inches tall, and 4 inches deep—large enough for groceries or a day's worth of books.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut four fabric pieces total: two for the outer bag and two for the lining, each measuring 13 by 15 inches before sewing.
  • Sew the outer bag and lining separately first, leaving a small opening in the lining for turning the bag right-side out.
  • Slip the outer bag inside the lining (wrong sides together), then sew around the top opening to join them permanently.
  • Topstitching around the top edge after turning the bag right-side out makes the seam look professional and keeps the lining from shifting.
  • Reinforce the handles by sewing them twice—once when you attach them to the outer bag and again when you topstitch the top edge.

Gather your fabric, thread, and tools

Choose two different fabrics: one for the outside (cotton canvas or quilting cotton works well) and one for the lining (cotton or cotton blend). Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit for your first tote. Buy at least one yard of each fabric, which gives you enough for a standard tote plus a small margin for mistakes.

You will also need thread that matches or blends with your outer fabric, a sewing machine or needle and thread for hand sewing, fabric scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and an iron. If you plan to add handles, gather two strips of fabric or webbing, each about 2 inches wide and 20 inches long. Have a seam ripper on hand in case you need to undo a seam—it saves time and frustration.

Cut and prepare your fabric pieces

Wash and dry your fabric before cutting if you plan to wash the finished bag later. Press both fabrics flat with an iron to remove wrinkles, which makes cutting and sewing much easier and more accurate.

Cut four rectangles total: two from your outer fabric and two from your lining fabric. Each rectangle should measure 13 inches wide by 15 inches tall. These measurements account for a half-inch seam allowance on all sides, so your finished bag will be approximately 12 by 14 inches. Mark the dimensions lightly with a pencil or chalk on the back of the fabric before cutting, then cut slowly and straight along the lines.

If you are adding handles, cut two strips from your outer fabric (or use pre-made webbing). Each strip should be 2 inches wide and 20 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press with an iron. Then fold the raw edges inward to meet the center fold and press again—this creates a finished handle that looks neat on both sides.

Sew the outer bag shell

Place your two outer fabric pieces right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along three sides, leaving the top edge unpinned. Sew along the three pinned sides using a half-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch on your machine, or backstitch by hand if sewing by hand. Sew slowly and keep the seam straight—wobbly seams are the most common mistake at this stage.

Before you turn the bag right-side out, clip the corners diagonally about a quarter-inch from the seam. This removes bulk so the corners lie flat when you turn the bag. Do not cut into the seam itself. Now turn the bag right-side out through the top opening, poke the corners out gently with a pencil eraser, and press the bag flat with an iron.

If you are adding handles, pin them to the inside of the outer bag at the top opening. Position each handle about 3 inches from the side seams, with the raw edges of the handle aligned with the raw edges of the bag opening. The handles should point downward into the bag at this stage. Sew the handles in place with a straight stitch, about a quarter-inch from the edge. You will reinforce this seam later, so do not worry if it looks thin now.

Sew the lining bag the same way, but leave an opening

Repeat the steps for the outer bag, but with your two lining fabric pieces. Place them right sides together, pin three sides, and sew with a half-inch seam allowance. Clip the corners as before.

This time, leave a 4-inch opening along one of the side seams instead of sewing it completely closed. This opening is how you will turn the entire bag right-side out later. Mark the opening with pins before you start sewing so you do not forget. Sew from one corner to the first pin, stop, then resume sewing from the second pin to the next corner. Do not turn the lining right-side out yet—leave it inside-out.

Join the outer bag and lining at the top

Slip the outer bag (right-side out) inside the lining bag (still inside-out). The right sides of the two bags now face each other. Align the top edges carefully and pin all the way around. The handles, if you added them, will be sandwiched between the two layers.

Sew around the entire top opening with a half-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch. Sew slowly and keep the seam even. When you reach a handle, sew right over it—the machine will handle the extra thickness. After you finish sewing all the way around, clip the corners where the top edges meet the side seams, cutting diagonally about a quarter-inch from the seam.

Turn the bag right-side out through the lining opening

Reach through the 4-inch opening you left in the lining and grab the outer bag. Pull it out through the opening, turning the entire bag right-side out as you go. This takes a little patience—go slowly and work the fabric gently. Once the outer bag is pulled through, the lining will be on the inside where it belongs, and the seam you just sewed will be hidden between the two layers.

Now close the 4-inch opening in the lining by hand using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch). Thread a needle and knot the end. Bring the needle up through one folded edge of the opening, then cross over and go down through the opposite folded edge. Slide the needle inside the fold for about a quarter-inch, come back out, and cross over again. Repeat this zigzag motion all the way across the opening. The stitches will be nearly invisible when you pull the thread snug.

Topstitch the top edge for a finished look

Press the top edge of the bag flat with an iron, making sure the lining sits evenly inside. Pin around the top opening about a quarter-inch down from the edge. Sew around the entire top with a straight stitch, about a quarter-inch from the edge. This topstitching serves two purposes: it makes the seam look professional and intentional, and it holds the lining in place so it does not shift when you use the bag.

If you added handles, this topstitching seam will pass right over them again, reinforcing the attachment. Sew slowly over the handles and do not worry about the extra thickness—your machine can handle it. When you finish, trim any loose threads and press the bag one final time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a lined tote bag by hand without a sewing machine?

Yes. Use a backstitch instead of a machine stitch, which is stronger and more durable for hand sewing. Backstitch means pushing the needle forward through the fabric, then bringing it back to close the gap behind the last stitch. Hand sewing takes longer—expect four to five hours—but the process is identical and the result is just as sturdy.

What fabric weight works best for a tote bag?

Medium-weight cotton like quilting cotton or canvas holds its shape well and wears longer than lightweight fabric. Avoid thin fabrics like voile or lawn, which will sag under weight. If you want extra structure, add a layer of interfacing to the outer fabric before sewing, or use a stiff fabric like canvas for the outer shell and soft cotton for the lining.

How do I add a bottom gusset to make the bag wider?

Cut two additional rectangles (one outer, one lining) that are 13 inches wide by 4 inches tall. Sew these to the bottom of your main bag pieces before joining the sides. This creates a flat bottom and makes the bag hold more. The process is the same, but you will have five seams to sew instead of three on each layer.

What is the ladder stitch and why is it invisible?

The ladder stitch closes an opening by running the thread inside the fold of the fabric rather than across the surface. Because the thread stays hidden inside the fold, the seam is nearly invisible from the outside. It takes practice to keep the stitches small and even, but it is the standard way to close openings in lined bags and pillows.

Can I use knit or stretchy fabric for a tote bag?

Knit fabric will stretch and sag over time, especially when the bag is full. Stick with woven cotton or canvas for your first tote. Once you are comfortable with the technique, you can experiment with other fabrics, but they will require different handling—stretchy fabrics need a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch on your machine.