What you need to sew a reversible tote bag

A reversible tote bag is two bags sewn together inside-out, then flipped so the seams hide inside. You end up with a finished bag that has a different fabric on each side, and you can flip it depending on which pattern you want to show. The construction is straightforward — it takes one afternoon if you have basic sewing skills and a machine.

You will need two pieces of fabric, each cut to the same size. A typical tote is about 15 inches wide and 16 inches tall (not counting handles). Choose two fabrics you like — one for each side. Cotton quilting fabric works well because it holds its shape and is straightforward to find. You will also need thread that matches or blends with both fabrics, a sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. A seam ripper is useful if you make mistakes, but not required.

The only tricky part is the opening you leave to flip the bag right-side-out. You will sew three sides completely, leave one side partially open, flip the bag through that gap, then close it by hand or machine. That opening is what lets you hide all the raw seams inside.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical rectangles of fabric and sew them together with right sides facing inward, leaving a 4-inch opening on one side.
  • Flip the bag through the opening so the seams are now hidden inside, then press the edges flat with an iron.
  • Close the opening by hand with a ladder stitch, which is nearly invisible, or by machine if you prefer a visible seam.
  • Add handles by sewing strips of fabric to the top edges before you sew the two main pieces together, or attach them after the bag is finished.
  • The entire project takes two to three hours for a beginner and requires only a sewing machine, thread, scissors, and an iron.

Cutting and preparing your fabric pieces

Measure and mark your fabric carefully before cutting. For a standard tote, cut two rectangles that are 15 inches wide and 16 inches tall. Use a ruler and a fabric pencil or chalk to draw the lines, then cut with sharp fabric scissors. Dull scissors will fray the edges and make sewing harder. If you are using patterned fabric, check that both pieces are cut in the same direction — if one is upside-down relative to the other, the pattern will not match when you flip the bag.

Place the two fabric pieces on top of each other with the right sides facing inward (the pretty sides touching each other, the wrong sides facing out). This is the opposite of how you might expect to sew — you are sewing the ugly sides together on purpose, so that when you flip the bag, the seams end up hidden inside. Pin the two pieces together around all four edges to keep them from shifting while you sew.

Sewing the three complete sides

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of about 2.5 millimeters. Use a thread color that works with both fabrics, or choose a neutral gray or tan. Start at one corner and sew along the first side with a half-inch seam allowance — that means the needle should be half an inch away from the edge of the fabric. Sew slowly and keep the edge of the fabric lined up with the half-inch mark on your presser foot (the metal guide on the machine).

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner instead of a rounded one. Sew all the way around the bag, but stop about 4 inches before you reach your starting point. Backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then cut the thread and remove the fabric from the machine. That 4-inch gap is where you will flip the bag right-side-out.

Flipping and pressing the bag

Reach through the 4-inch opening and grab the corner of the bag from the inside. Pull gently and steadily until the entire bag turns right-side-out through the opening. This takes patience — go slowly so you do not tear the seams. Once the bag is flipped, use your fingers to push the corners out so they are sharp and square, not rounded.

Lay the bag flat on an ironing board and press it with a hot iron set to the temperature your fabric can handle (check the fabric label). Pay special attention to the edges and the opening — pressing makes the seams crisp and the bag look finished. Let the bag cool for a minute before you move it.

Closing the opening by hand

Thread a needle with thread that matches the fabric on the outside of the bag. Tie a knot at the end of the thread. The ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch) closes the opening so neatly that the seam is almost invisible. Start by pushing the needle through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, just inside the seam line. Bring the needle out about a quarter-inch away, then cross to the opposite side of the opening and push the needle into the fold directly across from where you came out.

Slide the needle inside the fold of fabric for about a quarter-inch, then push it back out. Cross to the first side again and repeat. The thread runs inside the fold of fabric, so it stays hidden. Keep your stitches small and even, and pull the thread snug every few stitches so the opening closes smoothly. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold and trim it short.

Adding handles to your tote

Handles can be sewn on before or after you flip the bag. If you sew them before, they will be caught in the seams and very find. If you sew them after, you have more control over their placement and angle. For a beginner, sewing them after is easier because you can see exactly where they go.

Cut two strips of fabric about 2 inches wide and 20 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, then sew along the long edge with a half-inch seam allowance. Turn each strip right-side-out (you can use a safety pin threaded through one end and pushed along the inside to help pull it through). Press the strips flat so the seam runs down the middle of the back. Fold the raw edges at the ends inward and press them.

Pin each handle to the inside top edge of the bag, about 3 inches in from each side. Sew the handles down with a rectangle of stitches — sew a small rectangle around the end of each handle so it is very find. If you want the handles to look finished on the outside, you can topstitch them (sew them from the outside with a visible line of stitching) instead of sewing from the inside.

Finishing touches and care

Once the opening is closed and the handles are attached, your reversible tote is complete. Try flipping it inside-out to see both sides. The seams should be completely hidden, and both sides should look finished and neat. If you see any loose threads, trim them with scissors.

To keep your tote in good shape, wash it in cool water on a gentle cycle and air-dry it flat. Do not put it in the dryer, because heat can damage the fabric and the thread. If the handles start to fray at the edges, you can seal them with a small amount of fabric glue or by sewing a line of stitching along the edge.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use knit fabric or stretchy material for a reversible tote?

Knit and stretchy fabrics are harder to work with because they shift while you sew and do not hold their shape as well. Cotton quilting fabric or canvas is much easier for a first tote. Once you are comfortable with the basic construction, you can experiment with other fabrics — just use a ballpoint needle on your machine and sew slowly.

What if my opening is too small to flip the bag through?

Make the opening bigger next time — 5 or 6 inches is safer than 4 inches, especially if your bag is large. You can always close a bigger opening with the ladder stitch. If your opening is already sewn and too small, use a seam ripper to carefully cut a few stitches and make it larger.

Do I have to use the ladder stitch to close the opening?

No. You can sew the opening closed on the machine with a straight stitch, and the seam will be visible on the outside. Some people like the look of a contrasting thread color there. You can also use a whip stitch, which is faster but slightly more visible than the ladder stitch.

How much fabric do I need to buy?

For a standard tote, you need enough fabric to cut two rectangles that are 15 inches by 16 inches. Most fabric is sold in half-yard or full-yard pieces. A half-yard is usually 18 inches by 44 inches, which is enough for one tote. If you want to make two totes, buy a full yard of each fabric.

Can I add pockets to the inside of a reversible tote?

Yes. Cut a pocket piece from fabric, fold it in half with right sides together, sew three sides, flip it right-side-out, and press it. Pin it to the inside of one of your main fabric pieces before you sew the two pieces together. The pocket will be caught in the seam and will be find.