What you need before you start

A zippered tote bag is a standard project that takes an afternoon and requires only basic sewing skills. You will need two pieces of fabric for the outside (each roughly 16 inches wide by 18 inches tall), two pieces for the lining, a zipper between 12 and 14 inches long, thread that matches or complements your fabric, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. A zipper foot — a special presser foot for your machine that lets you sew close to the zipper teeth — makes the work faster and neater, though you can sew by hand if you do not have one.

Fabric weight matters. Cotton canvas, quilting cotton, or home-décor weight fabric work well because they hold their shape. Lightweight fabrics like cotton voile will sag under weight. If you are new to sewing, choose a solid color or straightforward print rather than a pattern that requires matching, and pick a neutral thread color that blends with both the outside and lining fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two outer fabric pieces and two lining pieces to the same size, then sew the zipper between the outer pieces before joining the sides.
  • The zipper goes into the seam at the top of the bag, with the teeth facing inward so they do not catch on items inside.
  • Sew the lining separately, then insert it into the outer bag and stitch it to the zipper tape to finish the top edge.
  • Handles can be made from folded fabric strips or purchased webbing, and are sewn into the side seams before the bag is closed.

Cutting and preparing your pieces

Lay out your outer fabric and cut two rectangles. A standard tote is 16 inches wide by 18 inches tall, but you can adjust these measurements — just keep both pieces the same size. Cut two lining pieces to match. Mark the top edge of each piece with a pin or chalk line so you know where the zipper will go.

Open your zipper fully and lay it flat. Measure the length of the actual metal or plastic teeth, not the tape on either side. Most 14-inch zippers have about 12 inches of usable teeth. You will sew the zipper into a seam that runs the full width of your bag, so the zipper teeth should be at least as long as the width of your fabric pieces. If your zipper is shorter than your fabric width, you can still use it — the seam will just extend beyond the zipper on both ends.

Sewing the zipper into the top seam

Place your two outer fabric pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along the top edge. Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew a seam about half an inch from the top edge, but stop before you reach the end — leave the first and last inch unsewn on each side. This gap is where the zipper will sit. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread.

Press this seam open with an iron so it lies flat. Lay the zipper face-down (teeth pointing down) into the open seam, centered so the metal or plastic stop at each end sits within the unsewn gaps. Pin the zipper tape to both sides of the seam allowance. Using a zipper foot, sew along one side of the zipper, staying close to the teeth but not so close that you hit them. Flip the bag and repeat on the other side of the zipper. The teeth should now be sandwiched between the two outer fabric pieces, with the zipper pull facing outward.

Assembling the outer bag

With the zipper now sewn in place, fold the bag so the right sides of the outer fabric are still together. The zipper seam is now at the top. Pin the two side seams and the bottom seam. Before you sew, decide whether you want handles. If you do, cut two strips of fabric about 2 inches wide and 20 inches long, fold each in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew along the long edge, turn right-side out, and press flat. Pin the raw ends of each handle into the side seams, about 2 inches down from the top, so the handles will be caught in the seam when you sew.

Sew the side seams and bottom seam with a half-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end. Trim the corners diagonally to reduce bulk when you turn the bag right-side out. Turn the bag through the zipper opening so the right side of the fabric now faces outward. Push the corners out gently with a blunt tool like a chopstick or the end of a wooden spoon.

Making and inserting the lining

Sew your two lining pieces together the same way you sewed the outer bag — right sides together, seams on the sides and bottom, but do not turn it right-side out. Leave a 4-inch opening in the bottom seam so you can insert it into the outer bag later. Trim the corners as you did with the outer bag.

Slide the lining into the outer bag through the zipper opening, so the wrong side of the lining now faces the wrong side of the outer fabric. The lining should sit inside the bag like a sleeve. Pin the top edge of the lining to the zipper tape on both sides, then sew it down by hand or machine, staying close to the zipper teeth. This stitching holds the lining in place and finishes the top edge of the bag neatly.

Closing the lining and finishing

Reach through the 4-inch opening in the bottom of the lining and pull the outer bag back through, so the lining now sits inside the bag with the opening facing inward. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward and pin them closed, then sew them shut by hand using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which is nearly invisible. A ladder stitch works by running your needle through the fold of one side, then directly across into the fold of the other side, moving forward a quarter-inch each time.

Push the lining down into the bag so it sits flat against the outer fabric. If you want the lining to stay in place, you can tack it to the outer bag at the side seams with a few hand stitches, though this is optional. Open the zipper fully to make sure it moves smoothly, and your bag is finished.

Fixing common mistakes

If your zipper is crooked or puckered, you likely sewed too close to the teeth and caught the fabric in the zipper mechanism. Carefully remove the stitches with a seam ripper, adjust the zipper position, and sew again. If the zipper pull catches on the fabric when you open or close it, the zipper tape may be folded under the seam. Open the bag, fold the tape flat, and add a few hand stitches to hold it in place.

If the lining bunches or wrinkles inside the bag, it is usually because the lining pieces were cut larger than the outer pieces. Trim the lining to match the outer bag width, or accept the slight extra fabric — it will smooth out with use. If the handles feel loose, check that they were sewn into the seam with at least a half-inch of overlap. If they were not, you can reinforce them by sewing a small rectangle of fabric over the base of each handle on the inside of the bag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a longer zipper than the width of my bag?

Yes. Sew the zipper in as instructed, and the excess zipper tape will extend past the side seams. When you sew the side seams, you will sew through the zipper tape. Trim any excess tape after the seams are complete, or fold it to the inside and stitch it down by hand.

What if I do not have a zipper foot?

You can sew the zipper by hand using a needle and thread, or use a regular presser foot and sew a bit farther from the zipper teeth — about a quarter-inch away. The seam will be less tight against the zipper, but it will still work. Hand sewing takes longer but gives you more control.

Do I have to use a lining?

No. You can skip the lining entirely and finish the top edge by folding the seam allowance inward and stitching it to the zipper tape by hand. The bag will be lighter and faster to make, but the inside seams will be visible and the bag will not be as durable.

How do I make the handles stronger?

Sew the handles twice — once when you assemble the outer bag, and again by hand after the bag is finished, stitching a small rectangle around the base of each handle on the inside. You can also use thicker fabric for the handles, or fold the fabric strip three times instead of twice before sewing, creating a thicker, sturdier strap.

What size zipper do I need for a different bag size?

The zipper should be at least as long as the width of your bag, minus about an inch. For a 14-inch-wide bag, use a 12 or 14-inch zipper. For a 20-inch-wide bag, use an 18 or 20-inch zipper. Longer zippers are fine — you can trim the excess tape after sewing.