The Basic Process: Attaching Lining by Hand or Machine

Jacket lining is sewn in after the jacket body is complete. You attach the lining to the inside of the jacket at the armholes, neckline, and front edges, then slip-stitch the opening closed. The lining floats inside the jacket rather than being sewn to the seams—this gives it room to move and keeps it from puckering.

The method depends on your jacket style. A straightforward unlined jacket takes about 45 minutes to 1.5 hours once the lining pieces are cut and sewn together. A structured blazer with a full lining and interfacing takes longer because you have more edges to finish and more precision required at the front facings.

Most home sewers use a combination of machine sewing and hand stitching. You'll machine-sew the lining pieces together, then hand-stitch it to the jacket using a slip stitch (also called a ladder stitch), which is nearly invisible from the outside.

Key Takeaways

  • Sew the lining pieces together first as a separate unit, leaving a 4- to 6-inch opening in the back seam for turning and attaching.
  • Press the lining seams flat and trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch to reduce bulk inside the jacket.
  • Pin the lining to the jacket at the armholes and neckline with right sides together, then machine-sew using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  • Turn the jacket right-side out through the opening in the back seam, then slip-stitch the opening closed by hand.
  • The lining should be slightly smaller than the jacket body so it sits smoothly without pulling or bunching.

Prepare the Lining Pieces and Seams

Cut your lining pieces from your pattern. Most lining patterns are slightly smaller than the jacket pieces—typically 1/2 inch narrower at the side seams and 1/2 inch shorter at the hem. This prevents the lining from pulling the jacket out of shape. Check your pattern instructions; some include a separate lining pattern, and others tell you to trim the jacket pattern before cutting lining.

Sew the lining pieces together using a standard 1/2-inch seam allowance. Sew the front lining to the back lining at the side seams and shoulder seams, just as you would for the jacket body. Leave a 4- to 6-inch opening in one of the back seams—this is your turning opening. Mark it clearly with a pin or thread so you don't accidentally sew it closed later.

Press all the lining seams flat with an iron. Trim the seam allowances down to 1/4 inch using pinking shears or a rotary cutter. This reduces the bulk inside the jacket and makes the lining lie flatter against your body when you wear it. Do not trim the seam allowances at the armholes, neckline, or front edges—you need the full 1/2 inch there for attaching to the jacket.

Pin the Lining to the Jacket at the Neckline and Armholes

Turn the lining inside out (so the wrong sides are facing each other). Slip the lining inside the jacket, also inside out. The right sides of the lining and jacket should now be facing each other. This is the position you'll sew from.

Start at the neckline. Pin the lining neckline to the jacket neckline, matching the shoulder seams and center back. Use 1-inch pins placed perpendicular to the edge, with the pin heads on the lining side so you can see them. The lining and jacket should lie flat against each other with no twists or folds. If your jacket has a facing at the neckline, pin the lining to the facing, not to the jacket body underneath.

Move to the armholes. Pin the lining armhole to the jacket armhole, again matching the shoulder seams first, then spacing pins every 2 to 3 inches around the curve. Armholes are curved, so take your time pinning—a loose pin here will cause puckers when you sew. The lining should sit smoothly without gathering or stretching.

Pin the front edges of the lining to the front facings of the jacket (or to the jacket body if there are no facings). Pin from the neckline down to the hem, spacing pins every 2 to 3 inches. The lining should not be pulled tight; it should lie naturally against the facing.

Machine-Sew the Lining to the Jacket

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance, the same as you used for the lining seams. Start at the neckline and sew the lining to the jacket, removing pins as you approach them. Sew slowly around curves (armholes) to keep the seam straight and even.

Sew the neckline first, starting at one shoulder seam and sewing around to the other shoulder seam. Backstitch at the start and end. Then sew each armhole, starting at the underarm and sewing around to the shoulder. Backstitch at the start and end of each armhole.

Finally, sew the front edges, starting at the neckline and sewing down to the hem on each side. You should now have the lining sewn to the jacket at the neckline, both armholes, and both front edges. The back of the jacket and the opening in the back seam of the lining are still unsewn.

Trim the seam allowances at the neckline and armholes to 1/4 inch. Clip into the seam allowance at the curves (armholes) every 1/2 inch, cutting perpendicular to the seam but not through the stitching. This allows the seam to lie flat when you turn the jacket right-side out.

Turn the Jacket Right-Side Out and Close the Opening

Reach through the opening in the back seam of the lining and grab the jacket body. Pull the entire jacket through the opening, turning it right-side out. This takes a little patience—work slowly and make sure the sleeves and front facings turn smoothly without twisting. Once the jacket is right-side out, smooth it with your hands and let it hang for a moment to settle.

Press the neckline, armholes, and front edges with an iron on a low to medium setting. Use a pressing cloth (a thin cotton cloth or pressing ham) between the iron and the lining to avoid shine. The seams should roll slightly to the inside so the lining is not visible from the outside.

Close the opening in the back seam using a slip stitch. Thread a needle with thread that matches your lining. Knot the end of the thread. Insert the needle into the fold of one side of the opening, then slide it along inside the fold for about 1/4 inch. Bring the needle out and insert it directly across into the fold of the other side of the opening. Slide the needle along inside that fold for 1/4 inch, then bring it back out. Repeat this back-and-forth motion, keeping your stitches small (1/8 to 1/4 inch) and tight. The stitches should be nearly invisible because they run inside the fold of the fabric.

Sew the entire opening closed, then knot the thread on the inside and trim the excess. The opening should now be sealed, and the lining should be fully attached to the jacket.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Lining too tight: If the lining pulls the jacket out of shape or creates wrinkles on the outside, the lining is too large. This usually happens when you don't trim the lining pattern before cutting. Always check your pattern instructions and trim if needed. If you've already sewn the jacket, you can carefully cut away 1/2 inch from the side seams of the lining and re-sew those seams.

Puckers at the armholes: Armholes are the most common place for puckers because the curve is tight and straightforward to stretch. Pin generously (every 1 to 2 inches) and sew slowly. If puckers appear after sewing, you may have stretched the lining while pinning. Carefully remove the stitches, re-pin, and sew again.

Slip stitch is visible: A visible slip stitch usually means the stitches are too large or the thread color doesn't match the lining. Use thread that matches your lining exactly, and keep your stitches to 1/8 inch or smaller. If the thread is visible, you can carefully remove it and try again with better color matching.

Lining twists or bunches inside the jacket: This happens when the lining is sewn unevenly to the armholes or when the opening is closed too tightly. Make sure the lining hangs naturally inside the jacket before closing the opening. The slip stitch should be snug but not so tight that it pulls the fabric.

Finishing Touches and Hem Options

Once the lining is attached, you can finish the hem. Most jackets have the lining hem sewn separately from the jacket hem, which allows both to move independently. Fold the lining hem up 1/2 inch and press. Fold it up again 1/2 inch and press. Machine-sew the hem using a straight stitch, or hand-sew it using a slip stitch if you prefer an invisible finish.

The jacket hem can be finished before or after the lining is attached, depending on your pattern. If the pattern calls for the hem to be finished first, do that before you attach the lining. If the pattern calls for the hem to be finished after the lining, measure the jacket length with the lining inside to make sure the hem hangs evenly.

Press the entire jacket one final time, paying special attention to the front edges, neckline, and armholes. Use a pressing cloth and low heat to avoid damaging the lining. Hang the jacket on a hanger for 24 hours before wearing to allow the fabric to relax and settle.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I machine-sew the lining opening closed instead of hand-sewing it?

You can, but it's not recommended because the stitches will be visible on the inside of the jacket. A slip stitch is nearly invisible and takes only 10 to 15 minutes. If you do machine-sew, use a thread color that matches the lining and a small stitch length (1.5 mm) to make the seam less noticeable.

What if my lining is bunching at the armholes after I turn the jacket right-side out?

Bunching usually means the lining was stretched while you were pinning or sewing. Carefully remove the stitches at the armhole, re-pin with the lining relaxed (not pulled tight), and sew again. You can also try clipping into the seam allowance more frequently—every 1/4 inch instead of every 1/2 inch—to help the curve lie flat.

Do I need to sew the lining to the hem of the jacket?

No. The lining hem and jacket hem are usually separate so they can move independently. This prevents the lining from pulling the jacket hem out of shape when you move. Sew the lining hem to itself, and sew the jacket hem to itself, but leave a small gap (about 1/2 inch) between them at the side seams.

What thread should I use for the slip stitch?

Use thread that matches your lining fabric exactly. If your lining is a solid color, use a thread in that same color. If your lining is patterned, choose a thread color that blends with the dominant color in the pattern. Polyester or cotton thread both work; use whatever you used for the rest of the lining.

How do I know if my lining is the right size?

The lining should be about 1/2 inch smaller than the jacket at the side seams and 1/2 inch shorter at the hem. When the jacket is finished and hanging on a hanger, the lining should not pull or bunch anywhere. If it does, the lining is too large. If there are gaps between the lining and the jacket at the armholes or front edges, the lining is too small.