Sewing a lining into a bag means attaching fabric to the inside walls so seams and raw edges stay hidden

A bag lining is sewn in after the outer bag is complete. You fold the lining fabric in half, sew it into a tube, then slip it inside the finished bag with right sides facing each other. You pin the top edges together, sew around the opening, then turn the whole bag right-side-out through a small gap you leave unsewn. The gap gets hand-stitched closed at the end. This method works for tote bags, drawstring bags, and structured bags made from canvas, cotton, or linen.

The process takes 30 to 45 minutes once your outer bag is done. You will need a sewing machine or needle and thread, pins, scissors, and lining fabric cut to match your bag's dimensions. Most mistakes happen when the lining is cut too large, when pins slip during sewing, or when the turning gap is sewn shut before you flip the bag. This guide covers both machine and hand-sewing methods.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut lining fabric to the same width and length as your outer bag pieces, then sew it into a tube before inserting it into the bag.
  • Pin the lining to the bag opening with right sides facing inward, leaving a 3-inch gap unsewn so you can turn the bag right-side-out later.
  • Sew around the entire opening with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, then trim corners and turn the bag through the gap.
  • Hand-stitch the gap closed using a ladder stitch, which is nearly invisible and holds securely.
  • Press the bag flat with an iron after turning to set the seams and remove wrinkles from the lining.

Measure and cut your lining fabric

Measure the width and height of your finished outer bag. Cut two pieces of lining fabric to those exact dimensions, adding 1/2 inch on all sides for seam allowance. If your bag is 10 inches wide and 12 inches tall, cut each lining piece 11 inches wide by 13 inches tall.

Lay the two lining pieces right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along three sides, leaving the top edge unpinned. This top edge is where the lining will attach to the bag opening. Sew the three pinned sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance using a sewing machine or a running stitch by hand. Trim the bottom corners at a 45-degree angle to reduce bulk when you turn the bag later.

Insert the lining into the bag

Turn your finished outer bag inside-out so the seams face outward. Slip the lining tube inside the bag, keeping the lining wrong-side-out (seams facing outward). The lining should sit snugly against the inner walls of the bag. The raw top edges of the lining and the raw top edges of the bag should align.

Pin the lining to the bag opening all the way around, matching the side seams of the lining to the side seams of the bag. Pin every 2 to 3 inches so the fabric stays in place and does not shift while you sew. Check that the lining is smooth and not bunched or twisted before you pin the final section.

Sew the lining to the bag opening

Before you sew, mark a 3-inch gap on one side of the bag opening where you will leave the seam unsewn. This gap is how you will turn the bag right-side-out later. Use a fabric pen or a pin to mark both ends of the gap so you do not forget where it is.

Sew around the entire opening with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, starting at one end of the gap and stopping at the other end. Use a sewing machine for speed and strength, or sew by hand with a running stitch if you prefer. Backstitch at the start and end of the seam to lock the thread. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch all the way around, then trim the corners at a 45-degree angle to reduce bulk when you turn.

Turn the bag right-side-out through the gap

Reach through the 3-inch gap and grab the bottom corner of the outer bag from inside. Pull gently and steadily until the entire bag turns right-side-out. The lining will now be on the inside where it belongs, and the outer fabric will be on the outside. This step takes patience—pull slowly so you do not tear the seams or stretch the fabric.

Once the bag is turned, use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out from the inside so they are sharp and square. Press the top opening flat with your fingers, then use an iron on low heat to set the seams. The lining should lie flat against the inner walls with no wrinkles or puckers.

Close the gap with a ladder stitch

Thread a needle with thread that matches your lining fabric. Tie a knot at the end. Insert the needle through the fold of fabric on one side of the gap, coming out about 1/4 inch away. This hides the knot inside the fold.

Bring the needle straight across the gap and insert it into the opposite fold at the same height. Push the needle along inside the fold for about 1/4 inch, then bring it back out. Pull the thread snug but not tight—the fabric should close without puckering. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire gap. After every three or four stitches, pull the thread gently to close the gap. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold and trim the excess.

This stitch is called a ladder stitch or invisible stitch because the thread runs inside the fold of fabric and does not show on the outside. It is the strongest hand-stitch for closing gaps and looks professional when done correctly.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Lining cut too large: If your lining pieces are bigger than your outer bag, the lining will bunch and wrinkle inside. Measure twice before cutting. The lining should be the same size as the outer bag plus 1/2 inch seam allowance on all sides—no more.

Pins slip during sewing: Use more pins than you think you need, spacing them 2 inches apart instead of 3. Pin perpendicular to the seam line so the presser foot can run over them without catching. Remove each pin just before the needle reaches it.

Gap sewn shut by accident: Mark the gap clearly with a fabric pen before you start sewing. Some sewers use a safety pin at each end of the gap as a visual reminder. If you sew the gap shut, use a seam ripper to carefully cut and remove the stitches, then hand-stitch the gap closed.

Lining twisted inside the bag: Before you sew the lining to the bag opening, check that the lining seams line up with the bag seams. Smooth the lining against the bag walls with your hands. A twisted lining will bunch when you turn the bag and create wrinkles that are hard to remove.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew the lining to the bag by machine instead of by hand?

Yes. After you turn the bag right-side-out, you can close the gap with a sewing machine using a ladder stitch foot or a regular presser foot. Machine stitching is faster but more visible. Most sewers hand-stitch the gap because it looks neater and the thread hides inside the fold.

What if my lining fabric is stretchy or slippery?

Use a walking foot on your sewing machine to feed both layers evenly and prevent shifting. Pin more frequently—every 1 to 2 inches instead of 3. For hand-sewing, use shorter stitches and pull the thread snug after every stitch to keep the fabric from sliding.

Do I have to leave a gap to turn the bag?

Yes, unless you sew the lining to the bag before you close the outer bag seams. Most sewers finish the outer bag first, then insert and sew the lining. The gap is the only way to turn the bag right-side-out after that. A 3-inch gap is the minimum—larger gaps are easier to close but more noticeable.

What thread should I use for the ladder stitch?

Use thread that matches your lining fabric color. If your lining is patterned, match the dominant color. The thread will be nearly invisible inside the fold, but matching color makes any small stitches that show less noticeable.

How do I prevent wrinkles in the lining after I turn the bag?

Press the bag with an iron on low heat right after turning it. Place a pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric to protect it. Press from the inside if possible so you do not flatten the outer fabric. Smooth the lining against the bag walls with your hands before pressing to remove any twists.